The timing crank pulley doesnt need removing unless you're changing the crank oil seal. It just sits on a key way though so is easily pulled off usually. Getting the bolt out and the aux crank pulley off is the hard part lol.

Is it a stretch bolt on these? Never had to replace it on old HDi's, just give it a coating of threadlock.

Its definitely one of the part that must be replaced according to all the bold capsd writing.

the bolt is (should be) only torqued up to 30 plus 180 degrees so unless its welded its self on it shouldn't be too hard to get out, the flywheel locking tool looks meaty enough to hold out but I don't have any air guns so it better not be too hard!

Ah angle turn shows it is a strech bolt then, I'll be quiet. ;)

That angle turn will make it considerably more than 30Nm though, closer to 200 at a very rough guess. If you've got a helper to hold the brakes on in gear that'll stop it turning over. I wouldn't want to slacken it on the flywheel locking pin personally.

Locking pin is fine for undoing crank bolt, there not that tight .

well that was a bit of a non starter, got it all ready, undertrays, wheel arch, scuttle panel etc all off, start to undo the coolant expansion bottle cap and.... crack!

Broken, after some trying to get it out I called up ford and brought a replacement, hacked off the old one and then the snow opened up.

decided to give up for the day

To rub salt In to the wound my mate who came out to help then crashed in to a concrete bollard, broken bumper and IC. very slow speed but just lost traction on a corner, slipped forward and bang.

Hope to have better luck next time :/

Well that sucks. :(

a lot of them caps do that i had to hack mine off but i got a new one from local motor factors £1.89 or some thing like that.

Better luck next time :)

On days like that it's best to just throw the towel in and resort to a beer and chill out, worry about it another day and have a fresh start.

hi all, just to let you know that's it done.  pretty straight forward, so glad I didn't waste money on getting someone else to fit the parts.  for anyone else thinking of doing it, assuming you do your research and get the right tools, there's nothing complicated about it, just a fairly long check list.  it might just be me but it sounds quite a bit quieter too. 

whilst we were at it we pulled off the thermostat and replaced it, engine temp now hits 84c, drops to about 79 and is maintained, no more dropping to about 60 odd.  win win,

 

thanks to you all :)

 

Where's the picture guide then?

How did you find access on the Focus?  Glad it's finally done.  

I should have taken pics but didn't, sorry folks! if shes still running in another 90k ill take photos! :)

I just followed this guide which is a carbon copy of the guide in autodata http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-belt-on-ford-focus-1-6-tdci-2004-2011/ referred to etis for any missing bits and Haynes for a few missing torque values.

The most time consuming part was getting the new belt on, stripping it down was easy, big !Removed! breaker bar popped the crank shaft nut off without any bother, as for access, between getting under the car and  coming at it from the top there isn't a hard part to reach, with the engine mounts out the way there is plenty of room. 

What took the time was the new belt, working on the basis that with the cam and crank locked in place the only thing that can bugger up the timing is having the wrong number of teeth between the sprockets, we decided to mark the old belt and sprocket on the first fully engaged tooth on the cam, fuel pump and water pump (would have been easier to have marked the belt on the idler) took the old belt off then marked the new belt with a pencil. popped it back on with some effort trial and error, set the tensioner correctly (wee mirror was handy here as the angle is pretty tight to see it) put it back together, turned it over 10 times and it was perfect. 

Pulled the old thermostat which required the whole fuel pump bracket to be removed, put it back together, job done

Flushed the system with water and attempt to start her quickly followed by brief heart attack as it stopped dead then realised id left the fly wheel locking tool in, oops!

Coolant was really manky yellow, so a couple of flushes later we had it clean then added the coolant.

it really is much easier than I think is made out, esp on this car, it could go horribly wrong but only if you just jump in without thinking

one awkward thing was that the locking holes were aligned right at the very edge of a stroke, it had to be balanced so the extra pare of hands we much needed

 

 

 

Great work Darren. I will be recalling on this thread in a few months for some tips when I give mine a go lol!

Excellent work.