First off engine problem solved no longer sounds like a tank

Got a leaking rear brake line not the rubber 1 the copper 1 right above the fuel filter by the tank :-( looks to me like the tank needs to be dropped to change it can anyone offer an alternative method 

Thanks :-) 

I have no idea what it looks like under there. But can you get to both ends of the pipe where the joins are? if you release the ends can you somehow slide it out and slide new one in? (if sliding new one in make sure you seal the end so you don't get cud in it) or maybe route the new pipe slightly differently?

However you have to be very careful if you route a pipe differently to the original, taking into account every eventually of damage eg. heat, or rubbing from eg. hand brake cable taking into account the full extent of suspension travel etc etc.

Years ago when brake pipes rusted through more easily than they do now due to lack of the same level of rust protection, I had two diiferent cars where the rear brake (metal) pipe wore through due to bad fitting by a previous owner or garage. one was a zodiac where the handbrake cable rubbing on the pipe wore through it and a mk4 cortina where the rear shock wore through it.  You have to be really really careful with routing and securing.

In case you are not aware, you can buy a roll of copper brake pipe and a pipe end flaring tool to make the pipes yourself. Again you need to be very careful you do it right

 

this is one example picked at random

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COPPER-BRAKE-PIPE-LINE-KIT-NUTS-3-16-4-76MM-SEALEY-FLARING-TOOL-KIT-AK505-/201416968185?hash=item2ee56307f9:g:1a0AAOSwHnFV4d-~

there are many different sizes / threads of the end fittings (tube nuts).

original pipes are usually steel and do rust. copper replacement does not rust and is much easier to bend the get the right curves on it.

you mention copper which suggests its been done before, maybe badly.

 

The problem with the pipe in question is where the union is its in between the fuel tank and the rear seat well in about a 2 inch gap so I was thinking of cutting the pipe where there's more access and moving the union making the pipe I'm replacing longer 

And my fault I thought all brake pipes where copper as I've only done flaring when I was in college on new brake pipe 

Thanks for the reply after replacing the engine this is starting to do my head in 😢

the problem with cutting the brake pipe further along and putting a new joint on it:  those DIY type pipe flaring tools do not work well on steel pipes as the steel is much harder metal to form into a flare. where is the next join on the pipe - it might be a long long way along.  Years ago I had a heavy duty professional type flaring tool that could do steel but you could only do it with the pipe off the car as it was big and held to be held in a big vice.   you might be able to get a flare on a steel pipe with a cheap diy tool if you're lucky but I have tried and never succeeded in one I have been happy with 

Those cheap tools will never do a steel pipe.

i have a hand held tool - Sykes pickavant flaremaster 2 which will though.

I'd be replacing the full pipe if it were mine.

Brakes done all pipes replaced with copper never again 

Thanks for the help 😃