Personally I think the 1.25 sounds quite good as well especially when it needs to be revved (not so much the noise from the tappets though). I also liked the higher pitched noise of the much older 1.6, not sure if the modern ones still sound the same.

I’ve got the FHEV, which has the same 2.5L petrol engine as in the PHEV, but detuned a bit. Still about 185hp and it’s AWD. As said previously the MPG figure isn’t brilliant. In winter I only average about 38, but in the warmer months get about 46 and can get over 50 on a run. The beauty of the FHEV is that you don’t ever have to plug it in and although it can only do a few miles on electric alone, it continually charges up as you go, so that few miles gets replenished over and over thanks to regenerative braking. I had relatives up recently and took them for a little tour which was just over 100 miles and nearly 30 of that was electric miles. This was on country roads and if it was motorway miles the electric wouldn’t cut in as often.

Thank you for your reply and advice, its really helpful, I will check the output whilst the warning light is on!

Garage said they didn’t touch the wires or move anything to get a the clutch slave. Wires wasn’t like it before it went in for fuel problem. Garage seems like they don’t have a clue. All the codes started when the clutch and wiring was pulled apart. I agree the car wasn’t worth paying for one replacement parts after another. And it’ll breakdown again with the same codes. ECU no communication. In my opinion the wiring caused a surge with battery cable and cluster panel. My fella has the same car and he’s never had these problems or ever had to keep taking his car back for same repairs of starter motors and injectors.

Hi, My wife's 2016 ford Ecoboost 1.0 has started making what can be described as a drone, when reversing and when you start driving off turning the steering wheel, any ideas as to what this could be before taking it to a garage? Google has some data but thought best to ask in the forum for clarity as no doubt it's a common issue. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Cheers

IMO it was a poor decision to remove the spare wheel from the rear door. I recently bought a 2019 Ecosport which came with a spare wheel where the previous owner simply has the wheel in the boot - I took this out as IMO it's dangerous to have something this heavy in the boot. It's ridiculous so many modern cars come without a spare wheel.

If the battery is only showing 11 volts it's severely discharged indicating that it's not being charged by the alternator. From my recent unfortunate experience alternators can develop a intermittent fault whereas they charge / don't charge. You need to check for charging / not charging when the warning sign is illuminated, the very nature of an intermittent fault is that they're hard to identify, but if it's the alternator it's likely to fail completely sooner rather than later, as mine did.

In the end I got Philips Ultinon Pro6000 Boost gen 2 and I designed my own adapter.

I recently had a similar experience with my 21 plate Focus T.X. - it transpired that the alternator had failed at just 1,990 miles.... 🥺 You may have an intermittent fault with the alternator charging / not charging, or less likely, but possible a wiring issue. Ideally you need to check the output of the alternator when the warning light is illuminated to rule in or out whether the alternator is charging the battery or not.

Did you use the supplied metal window frame inserts ? These normally secure the deflectors really well.