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Whoosh, Pop Then Loss Of Power


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#46 FOCA

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 09:52 PM

I would just get the cartridge,  it should be refurbished with rew seals etc - it should come with some sort of a guarantee, you have 60 days to leave FB etc, if you pay by credit card you could get a refund through that etc

 

Youre old turbo is "totalled" with the shaft sheared/ siezed, its a specialist job to rebuild it, if your new cartrige is a "refurb" they may want and old one for exchange, watch out as they may reject your old one in that condition and you may have to pay full price (no "exchange subsidy")  depending on seller

 

thea turbo would not have been making any boost whatsoever and it would have been like a (low powerd) NA car - i would be surprized if it pulled over 40mph!

 

Glad you "took the plunge" and much respect!

 

The oil feed pipe comes from the pump and the return goes back to the sump, obviously you dont start the engine with these disconnected and the pipes cannot be reversed, you can drip some fresh/ clean oil into the bearing on rebild so it does not spin up dry when you 1st start it

 

the turbo blades are delicate, dirt can get into the unions/ bearing - careful how you handle it    

 

You may not actually have to seperate the DPF from the turbo/ exhaust manifold

 

Old bolts can (especially on exhausts etc) be rusty spraying them with wd-40 / oil and letting it soak in can help, a bit of heat (a quick once over with a blowtorch) can work wonders

 

If you het "stuck" on something, leave it for 10, mins have a cup of tea, try again (seems like you know this one already!)

 

A Haynes manual can be very useful

 

When you are under the car, thilthy and covered on oil, sweat and you have skinned your knuckles and you are freezing cold, remember you have saved £45 on the checkup, an estimated £1000 for a new turbo fitted , so by douing it yorself you should be £800+ up - plus the respect of the chaps on the forum = priceless !  

 

Much of it is common sense - not that that is common, in reality :)          



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#47 ajt

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 10:16 PM

@FOCA

Encouraging words are always welcome

 

I'm about to buy this one

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item41713cd292

 

Should get it by Friday.

 

Now the bad news. It is avariable vane turbo and whilst trying to clean it up there are three hex machine screws holding the mechanism together. Evenn before I started I thought this could end up nasty, but had to strip it as part of exhaust turbine blade had sheared off and I wanted to make sure it was not wedged in the works waiting to come back and bite me.

Any way scre No.1 I thought was about to shear, but then it moved afew turns seized again then came out. Screw No.2 came out abit then sheared, buggerit. Screw No.3 came out, but looks lioke it may have shered the very last thread, as it looks square on the end, whereas screw No.1 has slight unthreade taper on the end. Oh well. Take it to engineer shop tomorrow, see if they can tap it out.



#48 FOCA

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 10:21 PM

PS - the shaft may have failed because it was an old turbo someone had stuck on (as you suspected due to the missing bolts etc) - or it could have been due to poor lubrication/ shutting the ignition off when the turbo was still spinning OR -

 

There is another fault - the boost sontrol system/s are not operatingb and the shaft sheared due too the turbo over- revving / exessive boost "wastegate" not operating

 

So the original fault had a knock-on effect to break the shaft

 

this may not be the case but worth checking

 

I feel reasured by my boost gauge

 

I would treat it to fresh oil/ filter on rebuild, then regular changes



#49 ajt

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 10:22 PM

Order placed...

 

Again back to the oil feed pipe, the end that attaches to top of turbo is loose, it spins on the pipe and moves up and slides up and down the pipe about 10mm. Is this normal?



#50 ajt

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 10:25 PM

I have done two oil changes since I've had it and the next one was due last week, just before MOT, but due to weather and having no cover to work under it went on the back burner! Don't think it would have stopped the failure though, and if anybody else does, keep it to yourself! (Just joking). I am changing oil, but am now a bit worried about oil feed pipe as I mentioned in earlier post. I've taken a couple of photos of turbo and shall try to post.



#51 ajt

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 10:42 PM

Turbo2.jpg

Turbo2 shows the missing broken vane, almost dead center.

Turbo5.jpg

I slipped a piece of card behind broken exhaust vane, to try and show it better.

Turbo4.jpg

Turbo4 shows how much oild was on the compressor side.

Turbo1.jpg

Turbo1 shows the variable vane mechanism top side, you can see the hex scres aswell.



#52 ajt

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 09:02 PM

Its' virtualy done, just under 13 hours outside in sleet and howling winds. I feel like  brown sticky stuff.

 

Just need to put inder shields back on, then check fluid levels. Have ranm it on idle for 10 minutes that tried to give it a few revs, it hestitated around 3200 for a split second, then shot past it. Hardly any smoke.

 

Good news, oil pan and filter were spotless, no carbon, no swarf. Still replaced turbo oil feed though.

 

Inter cooler was full of slightly sludgy oil.

 

Only sheared one bolt on sump! and only one bolt left over that I can't account for!

 

The best news, my car has been DPF deleted! Noticed the welded cutout on the dpf, and could never force a dpf error. Win some, lose some.

 

I'm off to bed now, I have bever ached all over like this before.



#53 salsheikh

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 04:46 PM

Alan, did you replace the turbo yourself?

 

i used some cellulose thinners to clean out my intercooler and did this a few times until it ran clear. the thinner evaporate quickly so no chance of having any left inside before re-fitting the i/c.

 

good to hear the cars running well again.



#54 FOCA

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 02:42 AM

I wonder if it was remapped as well as having the DPF deleted?   




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