All Activity

Hi all Fitting a turbo smart BOV to a Zetec S 1.0 ecoboost Question Which Vac pipe do I cut into for boost pressure with the new pipe and T piece provided in new kit? Thanks 👍

Were abouts do you cut into vag line for turbo smart dual blow off valve?

So I will need to pull the ign barrel out... uggh.

It says on the packaging it has that chip. As soon as I plugged it in to the laptop I got a message saying a driver update was available, it took me onto a site where the updated driver was and I installed it from there.

I’m using an acer laptop with genuine windows 10 installed and yes that is the lead I’m using in that link you’ve posted. It says on the packaging it has FTDI chip I followed all the instructions for installation clicked the links that was on the instruction manual and still it doesn’t connect 🤷🏻‍♂️ thanks for responding 👍🏻

Hi I recently bought a ford focus mk3 which only came with one key which doesnt have remote buttons. Id like to buy one from aliexpress if i could but not sure which chip is required to make it work. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EI5jlK3 There appears to be different kinds of chips available. I am able to use forscan if there is anyway of finding out using that. Any help appreciated. Thanks

Looking to add cruise control to my Zetec after seeing someone do it to their Zetec S on Youtube. I'm wondering if anyone has done this to their Zetec and in particular 80ps non turbo. Installing it seems to be a piece of ***** assuming you know what you are doing: you only need to replace the steering wheel control with a cruise control one and connect it into the existing wiring block already there. and finally alter a setting through the OBD.

The General Chat forum is ONLY for threads which DO NOT fit any other category. If your thread is anything do to with a specific model, it should go in the relevant model club section Please repost in the FIESTA forum. Your post and any replies may well be deleted by the FOC admin at any time without warning.

If the battery was drained because of the alternator failure then it is extremely unlikely to ever fully recover. Once discharged below 8V the battery under goes changes that can not be reversed and so it normally has to be replaced. Has the BMS been reset after the alternator was replaced ? Usually it should only be reset after a new battery is fitted, but due the battery being fully discharged the BMS might be better reset. Is the replacement alternator a new unit or is it reconditioned ?

Looking to add cruise control to my Zetec after seeing someone do it to their Zetec S on Youtube. I'm wondering if anyone has done this to their Zetec and in particular 80ps non turbo. Installing it seems to be a piece of ***** assuming you know what you are doing: you only need to replace the steering wheel control with a cruise control one and connect it into the existing wiring block already there. and finally alter a setting through the OBD.

What we need is a search system that actually works and has some decent filters. Do we know anyone on the forum that knows about IT stuff ? 😉

Battery light come on, then battery died Rac told me to replace alternator Battery conditioned and charged with 240v charger New alternator fitted, battery light still illuminated Single wire alternator plug unplugged and alternator reverts to non smart charging. u1007 Lost Communication with Battery Monitoring Sensor fault code present and similair code for active grill Wire at alternator only showing 3v untill grill wiring is unplugged, then rises to 9v however still shows fault when alternator plugged back in 3 wire grill plug not showing any voltage Fuses are all good, power to the battery sensor plug on negative terminal Any help would beappreciated Is there a way of testing the battery sensor on the negative terminal? Hopefully havent got a fried pcm

Looks like a new Focus cost the same as a small fleet of BYDs 🤔

Just been to view a tidy 1-granny-owned low-mile FSH KA+ (pre-facelift). Clutch bite-point is waaay higher than I'm used to on a KA+. It's a smidge higher than half-way in the pedal movement, whereas I've been used to it being less than 1/4 of the movement off the floor. Clutch bites OK, no slip... yet. Is this normal? Should I buy... or run away?

My 2006 Hatchback has straight rear droplinks.

Geeze man, what you need is to round up a posse! 🤣

Those codes are meaning less. You need the real Ford specific DTC's which you can get using FORScan.

Apart from the minor change that they now use a timing chain in place of the wet belt. The cylinder head has been reversed and the inlet and exhaust are the other way round.

Hi Anybody know if the bumper splitter trims from a current connect sport will fit onto a mk2, and where I can get them if they do? Ta J

Hi I have a 2011 mondeo titanium x that I’ve just bought, it comes up front light malfunction when started up and doesn’t go off, all lights are working, I’ve replaced the front headlamp levelling sensor but it still come on front headlight malfunction, I’ve been told there’s another sensor at the back if that’s replaced would it fix it? If not I don’t want to pay out another £130 if it could be something else causing it, does anyone have any suggestions? thanks

You need a Windows Laptop, the software FORScan (free) and a 'vLinker FS' connecting cable and then you can read the Ford diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) FORScan: https://www.forscan.org/download.html vLinker FS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

Greetings all, first post. I hope someone can offer some wisdom please! I've had a 2011 1.6 Petrol C-Max for a couple of months and this issue has occurred twice out of nowhere whilst driving on clear road. The traction control warning light comes on and I get a system warning about the hill start assist not being available. Then the engine starts chugging like an old steam engine, and cuts out completely if I slow down and leave it idling. By keeping the revs up I just about manage to limp home with the engine feeling really jerky, and like it's going to stall while idling at junctions. No engine warning light, only the traction control light and the warning about hill start assist! Next day all fine. Did a 160 mile round motorway trip last weekend - fine, 3 times a week motorway commute about half hour each way - fine. But then this has happened just twice at random doing similar sort of drive. An eBay special code reader is showing "P0174 System Too Lean Bank 2", "P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1", "P2193 System Too Lean at Higher Load Bank 2" "P2191 System Too Lean at Higher Load Bank 1". Took it to Ford dealer who say there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it and I'd have to visit while it's actually doing it, which is easier said than done! It's in lovely condition, 68k, but really worried I've bought a banger. Any bright ideas? Thanks for reading!

Peter Murrell can recommend a one that sells excellent Motor Homes 🤣

Hi, Is this something I have to take it to a garage for?