Engine malfunction / transmission service required

[Galaxylloyd]

Hi all,

forst post so be gentle 

 

ive got a 2009 Ford galaxy auto 

2.0 tdci 140

every 2,000 miles or so it’s goes into limp home mode, and says engine malfunction, transmission service required. 

Turn it off for 10 mins and pull over - back on and it’s fine. 

 

Had a garge do a fault read on it, nothing shows up. Any idea what it could be? Don’t mind travelling to a garage / ford specialist that’s fixed this issue. Don’t have a ford specialist by me 😔

 

any help greatly appreciated 

thanks im advance 

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Galaxylloyd said:

every 2,000 miles or so it’s goes into limp home mode, and says engine malfunction, transmission service required. 

Turn it off for 10 mins and pull over - back on and it’s fine. 

You need to carry a decent code reader with you in the car. If the warning light or message is on there will be an error code giving some clue as to the cause. But some of these codes disappear quite quickly, after a few ignition cycles, so a later visit to a garage, even a ford dealer, may show nothing. You need to be able to grab the codes as soon as possible.

Codes relating to glowplugs, and to the DPF system can be like this.  Also the transmission module may contain codes that will not be read by a bog standard generic OBD2 reader. Forscan is the most capable DIY system for Fords, if the code is there, it will find it.

The lite versions for android or ios phones & tablets will be good enough to read the error codes. More about Forscan, if you want, in:

 

 

[Galaxylloyd]

Many thanks for the reccomendation! Ordered and now have it in my hand, along with a laptop stashed in the car. 

So I’ve linked it up, connected and had it run a scan. Obviously i’ll Do the same when it happens. What should I look for ? 

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, Galaxylloyd said:

So I’ve linked it up, connected and had it run a scan. Obviously i’ll Do the same when it happens. What should I look for ? 

Intermittent and infrequent problems like this can be a real pain. Garages hardly ever find them, until a lot of often expensive work is done.

I guess the Forscan scan worked ok, and found the relevant modules, like PCM, ABS, EPS and TCM at least. And detected no errors in them. Basically I think you now have to wait for an event, then do a scan as soon as possible, even before the first ignition off event if possible. (Stop safely first, of course!). If the malfunction warning is up, I would be very surprised indeed if there was no error code. This code will hopefully give some clue as the the cause, or at least the general area, like electrical connections, or a sensor, or mechanical.

Then save the log file (icon for that at the bottom of each screen), clear the code, and continue, to see if & when it happens again. Unless you are planning to take the car in to a garage, then save the file, but do not clear any codes. They will want to see them.

In the meantime, also do any normal checks & tests that you can think of, look for oil leaks, visible damage, maybe check the oil level. The codes (DTCs) are a guide, but are not infallible, and should always be combined with old-fashioned investigation methods.

 

[Galaxylloyd]

Thank you! 

Yes it found all modules etc, the only thing I wasent sure about was I had 3/4 that had like yellow exclamation marks next to them? Is that a fault? 

 

[Galaxylloyd]

Well can you believe it, just on my way down to Bristol and it happened again. So I don’t know if I did it right but I seen that resetting the dct? Or something is the way forward so I read it and loads of errors popped up, got a list, then I cleared it and a fan error was the only one left on there 

see photo below 

 

[Galaxylloyd]

But before there were loads of codes and worrying errors 

Below is what I had once the error occurred 

[Tdci-Peter]

8 hours ago, Galaxylloyd said:

I read it and loads of errors popped up, got a list, then I cleared it and a fan error was the only one left on there 

After reading the codes, then it is usually best to clear them. That way you can see better what happens. But it is a good idea to first use the save icon at the bottom of the screen to save the log file, then you have a hard record of what happened and when.

If the fan error either will not seem to clear, or keeps coming back, then that suggests a problem there. See if the fan comes on with the A/C running, as it should, even with a cold engine.

Also Forscan tells you which code, if any, is responsible for lighting the warning lamp or giving the error message on the dash. This would indicate that the PCM (aka ECU) thinks this code is important, or happens often.

I am not convinced that the fan code is the one that put it into limp mode, but time will, hopefully, tell.

The whole bunch of codes you had may be the result of a wiring problem, especially a dodgy connection on the HS-CAN bus, or it may be some other event related to servicing or maintenance, like a battery disconnect or brief short circuit. But the P1719 error in the TCM stacks up with the "transmission service required" message. However if it always happens with other codes like you list, it is probably not the transmission that is the problem.

[Scott2.0]

Hello to anyone reading this and thanks in advance of you can offer any information I have read a lot of threads on here with very similar issues but never seen a definitive answer.  I have a issue I drive 30-40 nice slow seem to get a bit of a judder sort of feels like a fuel related issue then accelerate quickly as in drop my foot and keep a constant increase then esp light comes on and service transmission required the gearbox seems to go into limp mode if I push it over to s mode it will not let me change gear just stuck in whatever gear it’s in I’m fairly sure it’s not a gearbox problem as if I drive slow and steady no problem even if I drive 50-60-70-80 on motorway but very slowly increase to this speed it drives for as long as I want it to without any issues but if I’m driving at 50 and go to overtake and start to want to increase speed quickly ot just comes up with esp transmission etc goes to limp mode  gone to a trusted long life friend at his garage we was thinking can problems used for scan and a number of issues but none definitive he uses his snap on diagnostic and same a few issues we changed map sensor, mass airflow,full service all filters etc , actuator sensor (the one at the bottom of the actuator) , turbo boost sensor,re mapped the ecu to rule out a dodgy pre map  checked all viable ground lines replaced the steering angle sensor (new from Ford) had a egr, flaps delete and blank it off and we have a red issue on the turbo side of it any help appreciated I don’t know what to do next as a turbo is costly and also possibly not the problem 

[Tdci-Peter]

8 hours ago, Scott2.0 said:

accelerate quickly as in drop my foot and keep a constant increase then esp light comes on and service transmission required

 

8 hours ago, Scott2.0 said:

if I’m driving at 50 and go to overtake and start to want to increase speed quickly ot just comes up with esp transmission etc

You don't say what type of gearbox it is. I assume it is an auto. It sounds to me like it can not change gear except at very low engine torque. Acceleration will usually cause a kickdown gearchange, and if it can not do this due to the engine torque, it will raise an error code and put a warning light on. So I think it is a gearbox problem, as the error lights suggest.

[Tony133]

Hello everyone I see similar problems to mine but mine is slightly different.  

I have ford S max 2010 automatic gearbox 2 litre diesel 

2 days ago as I was driving with 60 Miles per hour ESP went on then gearbox service required and engine malfunction all 3 at the same time I pulled over switched the car off waited 30 sec or so started again  and all is good no faults or anything but today happen the same thing as I was driving with 30 Miles on hour.  I have new DPF filter installed ( cheap one 200£ ) can that be the problem? In the twice this happen as soon as I turn it off and on the faults are gone and car works as normal.  When shifting between gears there is no shaking or any noise the engine working normal as usual.  Any tips will be much appreciated 

Thank you in advance 

[unofix]

When was the automatic gearbox last fully serviced ?

They require oil and filter change every 37,000 miles or 10 years (I might be slightly out with those).

[Tony133]

I've no idea I purchased the car about a month ago had no issues with it till 2 days ago. Have an appointment to flush and service the gearbox on the 19th.. I just hope she be OK till then. Do you think that can be the issues only ? 

 

[alanfp]

4 hours ago, unofix said:

They require oil and filter change every 37,000 miles or 10 years (I might be slightly out with those).

It is indeed 37,000 miles (actually 37,500 , but I won't point that out as that would be pedantic 😀)....  or every 3 yrs, which ties in with the 12,500 mile service interval.

 

[unofix]

9 hours ago, Tony133 said:

Have an appointment to flush and service the gearbox on the 19th.. I just hope she be OK till then. Do you think that can be the issues only ? 

In most cases a full gearbox service will sort out the problems. Just dive it steady until you get it sorted.

[Tony133]

On 10/9/2022 at 11:31 AM, unofix said:

In most cases a full gearbox service will sort out the problems. Just dive it steady until you get it sorted.

Right managed to get my mechanic to flush the gearbox and replace the filter ans the oil . Just called me at 20h saying the car is ready and he drove it for like 7 miles no problems.  Went to pick up the car at 21h started it drove like 500 yards and the same again gearbox service required + ABS light on 😓 . Now he will be looking at it tomorrow again and I left it there but it seems to me is gearbox problem😓 

[unofix]

ABS light may be caused by a faulty wheel sensor.

Use FORScan to read the DTC and see what the problem is.

[Tony133]

Here is a screenshot of what the garage can find . He thinks that can be the issue. Do you agree? 

[Tony133]

18 hours ago, unofix said:

ABS light may be caused by a faulty wheel sensor.

Use FORScan to read the DTC and see what the problem is.

Here is a screenshot of what the garage can find . He thinks that can be the issue. Do you agree? 

[unofix]

I do agree that the fault is most probably one ABS wheel sensor. However, I think it unlikely that both rear sensors would fail at the same time.

If  you use FORScan it will probably give more information and tell you which sensor is at fault, or if it is a problem with the connecting wires. Changing both rear sensors might fix the problem but if it is a case of wiring either short-circuit to ground or open-circuit then you will have spent money replacing senors that were OK.

[Tony133]

On 10/11/2022 at 9:10 PM, unofix said:

I do agree that the fault is most probably one ABS wheel sensor. However, I think it unlikely that both rear sensors would fail at the same time.

If  you use FORScan it will probably give more information and tell you which sensor is at fault, or if it is a problem with the connecting wires. Changing both rear sensors might fix the problem but if it is a case of wiring either short-circuit to ground or open-circuit then you will have spent money replacing senors that were OK.

1 rare sensor was bad replace it all good now. I hope this help someone else 

Thank you so much for the help 😄

[LFCNET]

Hi mate, I had the same issue.

 

Sounds like you've got a split o your boost pipe. It doesn't need to be very big but when the car is under load it will open up and send a message back to the sensor to say something is wrong and put it in limp mode.

 

Once you pull over and turn off then re-start its no longer under load therefore, the split isn't opening up so it will clear the fault.

 

It's a simple fix but make sure to check the pipe carefully as I didn't spot the slit in my pipe for a while when trying to troubleshoot but once found and repaired its been perfect since.

 

Hope this helps!

[Sabhawe]

On 4/3/2018 at 1:03 PM, Galaxylloyd said:

Hi all,

forst post so be gentle 

 

ive got a 2009 Ford galaxy auto 

2.0 tdci 140

every 2,000 miles or so it’s goes into limp home mode, and says engine malfunction, transmission service required. 

Turn it off for 10 mins and pull over - back on and it’s fine. 

 

Had a garge do a fault read on it, nothing shows up. Any idea what it could be? Don’t mind travelling to a garage / ford specialist that’s fixed this issue. Don’t have a ford specialist by me 😔

 

any help greatly appreciated 

thanks im advance 

Hi, do you have DTC codes?

have you ever changed gearbox oil?

[rd457]

@Sabhawe quoted post is 6 years old 😆