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MK8 ST-Line dashcam hardwire fitting guide?

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Anybody know of a fitting guide for a dashcam to the passenger compartment fuse box? I've had a look online but can't find one anywhere. I did attempt to do it myself but couldn't figure out what fuse to use and where to attach a ground. I'd like it to only come on when the engine/ignition is on.

 

Thanks



There's no need to make a fitting guide for every car made, it's a pretty universal process.

Earth wire goes to any piece of metal, it all goes back to the battery one way or another. Live should work with rear wipers, that was an ignition live on the Mk7, so I'd imagine it was the same for the mk8. If it isn't then just keep plugging the piggyback into different fuses until you get one that's ignition live.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

I've just installed my Nextbase dash cam today, so I thought I'd add a post. (My Fiesta is a new Mk8 Titanium X 1.0L auto, however the information below should be true for all mk8 Fiestas) 

I used the 'fuse tap' (or piggyback) connector with the Micro2 10A fuse number 3 in the passenger compartment fuse box. This is shown in the handbook (common to all mk8 Fiestas I believe) as 'parking assist module'. The original 10A fuse goes in the fuse tap alongside the 5A fuse for the dash cam, and the fuse tap is slotted in where the original fuse came out. The red lead from the fuse tap terminates with the female part of a bullet connector, and the red (positive) lead from the dash cam plugs in here.

I connected the dash cam's black (negative / earth) lead to earth via the mounting bracket for the fuse box. It's a metal bracket, mounted on a metal stud, with a metal nut securing it. I slackened the nut slightly, slid the spade connector on the end of the black lead underneath and retightened it. This provides a sound earth. Just need to carefully peel back the carpet a few inches to expose the stud.

My dashcam comes on when the ignition is on, and goes off when the ignition is turned off (and it stays on whether the engine is running or not). Job done!

(FYI I originally tried fuse number 24 as it's shown as spare. It's live, but is permanently live, which is not what I wanted. Also the wiring kit for the Nextbase dash cams come with two different fuse taps included ..a 'standard' and a 'mini'. Neither of these fit the Fiesta's passenger compartment fuse box, as this is populated with Micro2 and Micro3 fuses. Nextbase recognise this and offer a Micro2 fuse tap free on request. They were very helpful, I dropped them an email on Wednesday and the correct fuse tap turned up today, Friday.)

Hope the above helps..

 

  • Author

Thanks for the detailed description. I've ordered a micro2 add-a-fuse from Amazon that should arrive tomorrow, I'll give another go fitting it tomorrow. If the add-a-fuse won't work I'll give Nextbase an email.

 

Thanks!

  • 2 years later...
On 8/24/2018 at 4:12 PM, EightiesDuntonFordie said:

I've just installed my Nextbase dash cam today, so I thought I'd add a post. (My Fiesta is a new Mk8 Titanium X 1.0L auto, however the information below should be true for all mk8 Fiestas) 

I used the 'fuse tap' (or piggyback) connector with the Micro2 10A fuse number 3 in the passenger compartment fuse box. This is shown in the handbook (common to all mk8 Fiestas I believe) as 'parking assist module'. The original 10A fuse goes in the fuse tap alongside the 5A fuse for the dash cam, and the fuse tap is slotted in where the original fuse came out. The red lead from the fuse tap terminates with the female part of a bullet connector, and the red (positive) lead from the dash cam plugs in here.

I connected the dash cam's black (negative / earth) lead to earth via the mounting bracket for the fuse box. It's a metal bracket, mounted on a metal stud, with a metal nut securing it. I slackened the nut slightly, slid the spade connector on the end of the black lead underneath and retightened it. This provides a sound earth. Just need to carefully peel back the carpet a few inches to expose the stud.

My dashcam comes on when the ignition is on, and goes off when the ignition is turned off (and it stays on whether the engine is running or not). Job done!

(FYI I originally tried fuse number 24 as it's shown as spare. It's live, but is permanently live, which is not what I wanted. Also the wiring kit for the Nextbase dash cams come with two different fuse taps included ..a 'standard' and a 'mini'. Neither of these fit the Fiesta's passenger compartment fuse box, as this is populated with Micro2 and Micro3 fuses. Nextbase recognise this and offer a Micro2 fuse tap free on request. They were very helpful, I dropped them an email on Wednesday and the correct fuse tap turned up today, Friday.)

Hope the above helps..

 

I have a 2018 mk8 fiesta. I connected the ignition wire to the number 3 fuse as suggested above, the problem is when I stop the car at traffic lights and the engine auto stops, so does the dash cam, when I pull away again the dash cam remains off. 

I have a 2018 mk8 fiesta. I connected the ignition wire to the number 3 fuse as suggested above, the problem is when I stop the car at traffic lights and the engine auto stops, so does the dash cam, when I pull away again the dash cam remains off. 

1 hour ago, aandy said:

I have a 2018 mk8 fiesta. I connected the ignition wire to the number 3 fuse as suggested above, the problem is when I stop the car at traffic lights and the engine auto stops, so does the dash cam, when I pull away again the dash cam remains off. 

Change to another fuse? There's loads of different ones that will work. A lot of people use the wipers as I said above.

  • 11 months later...

Sorry for reviving an old topic but does anyone know how to route the nextbase rear cam wire from the inside of the cabin at the rear of the car to the tailgate... Preferably through the rubber gators and inside the interior trim of the tailgate?

I'm wondering how to route cable through the gators... 

Car is a fiesta st-line x 2018

 

Cheers

I've got the nextbase camera on the rear screen and a reverse camera in the boot handle and both need their cables to come through the headlining into the tailgate. I can't remember which was which but the cable with a smaller socket was a struggle to get through the rubber grommet and the other had no chance, far too big. I  had to run the cable externally alongside the corrugations of the grommet through small holes I cut top and bottom. I sealed the holes with black sealant. The grommets need care when removing because their base is made of plastic unlike the tube section which is rubber. Mine's the same car as yours.

Thanks for the reply. 

I'll take a look at this tomorrow. I didn't want to force the plastic trim off on the inside of the tailgate as it appears to be firmly attached. See the blue highlighted strip in the attached image. 

Screenshot_20220120_194613_com.android.chrome.jpg

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