*UPDATE*

It seems that my turbo has failed, also the compressor wheel is damaged & has some of the blade tips missing which has potentially caused major engine damage from the blades entering the compression chamber/s. A combustion test has been carried out and the results aren't good, especially in cylinder 2.

The fault codes are:

P253F 00 Engine oil deterioration (recommended oil for this model was used) 

P006A-64 Manifold Air pressure correlation 

P132B-21 Turbo boost control A performance

So in all my engine is toast😩😩, I was looking at replacing it, but it's going to be a lot of hassle, and I simply haven't got the time or deep eough pockets to do it, and will now be looking at a newer model. 

So it looks like I have a 2013 Fiesta Ecoboost car for sale for spares and repairs (will post details & piccies over weekend. 

14 hours ago, Chinadoll said:

*UPDATE*

It seems that my turbo has failed, also the compressor wheel is damaged & has some of the blade tips missing which has potentially caused major engine damage from the blades entering the compression chamber/s. A combustion test has been carried out and the results aren't good, especially in cylinder 2.

The fault codes are:

P253F 00 Engine oil deterioration (recommended oil for this model was used) 

P006A-64 Manifold Air pressure correlation 

P132B-21 Turbo boost control A performance

So in all my engine is toast😩😩, I was looking at replacing it, but it's going to be a lot of hassle, and I simply haven't got the time or deep eough pockets to do it, and will now be looking at a newer model. 

So it looks like I have a 2013 Fiesta Ecoboost car for sale for spares and repairs (will post details & piccies over weekend. 

sorry to hear this , but about the ( engine oil deterioration ) its seems that the engine oil wasn't changed according to the schedule , which resulted in turbo failure, for how long was this oil in the engine ?

1 hour ago, Eng_Ahmad1986 said:

sorry to hear this , but about the ( engine oil deterioration ) its seems that the engine oil wasn't changed according to the schedule , which resulted in turbo failure, for how long was this oil in the engine ?

Quite a while, which was probably the contributiary factor this happened, and a costly oversight on my part 😩😩😩😩😩. 

4 minutes ago, Chinadoll said:

Quite a while, which was probably the contributiary factor this happened, and a costly oversight on my part 😩😩😩😩😩. 

I feel really sorry for you mate 😞 I hope you get this sorted out with minimal cost 

9 hours ago, Eng_Ahmad1986 said:

I feel really sorry for you mate 😞 I hope you get this sorted out with minimal cost 

Thanks Ahmad, I have viewed & purchased a 2017 MK7 Titanium Ecoboost yesterday at Ford, and I have someone buying the other one for spares and repairs today (hopefully). So in a way its turned out ok 🤔🤔👍👍👍👍

13 hours ago, Chinadoll said:

Thanks Ahmad, I have viewed & purchased a 2017 MK7 Titanium Ecoboost yesterday at Ford, and I have someone buying the other one for spares and repairs today (hopefully). So in a way its turned out ok 🤔🤔👍👍👍👍

congratulations on your new car , I wish you all the best with this one 🙂 

52 minutes ago, Eng_Ahmad1986 said:

congratulations on your new car , I wish you all the best with this one 🙂 

Thanks mate, I'm sure this one is 'the one' 👍👌👌👌

Hi All

Been having a similar issue with my 2014 1.0 ecoboost. My car would suddenly go into limp mode and  OBD showed that the turbo stopped working when this happened. The problem would go away if I switched the car off and on again. The error code said something about running "lean on  idle". I couldn't identify the problem and a month or 2 later the oxygen sensor failed and there was a complete loss of power. Replaced the O2 sensor and now back to square one. Mechanic suggested replacing the Boost control valve and another suggested changing the vacuum pump. I really don't have the money to do both and I need to make a choice. What do you guys think? 

A bit late to the party, sorry - but it is possible for the mechanic or a reasonable DIYer to test whether the boost control solenoid and the vacuum pump are working or not with fairly simple tools [vacuum guage and a hand held vacuum pump] rather than test by throwing new parts at it.

My power loss issue turned out to be a dirty map sensor, not bad enough to show a code but changed the reading. 

Contact cleaner worked now no hesitation between 4 and 5 thousand rpm and a smooth power delivery 

Hello, after reading a lot of posts I managed to solve the problem of power loss at higher engine speeds. It is a 1.0 ecoboost. The solution is so simple it's ridiculous and I struggled for 6 months. The fault code is P132B. At the service station, they wanted to change my turbine. The problem was in the vacuum pump, not a bad pump, but a small part that is actually a non-return valve. I read that it cannot be bought separately, but only in a set with a pump. Searching the net, I found it on Ebay, but it seemed expensive.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115045691540?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WNmZrqelQ1K&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=bpSeIL9nReq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

Then I searched AliExpress and found a really cheap one.

€ 3,37  34%OFF | Car Vacuum Pump Valve Repair Kit Replacement Accessories For 1.0L & 1.5L Ecoboost Vacuum Pump Spout CM5G2A451GA 1867424
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKcH9Gw

It is simply mounted and the car is reborn.

I hope it helps someone

Sorry for the google translate.