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New battery type focus 2010 1.6 tdci


Paul80
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Hi all,

My battery decided to pack it in 40 miles away from home and after 6pm. The RAC man was nice enough to start it after a few failed attempts from a few local people with jump cables, but he said I need a new one.

i’ve looked online but it gives me three options 075, 096 and 100.

Does anyone know which one I should get for a 2010 focus 1.6TDCI?

thanks.

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What do you have currently?

075 is L-242mm x W-175mm x H-175mm

096 is L-278mm x W-175mm x H-190mm

100 is L-278mm x W-175mm x H-175mm

Height includes terminals.

TAYNA list 075 and 100 for 2010 focus 1.6TDCI

Presumably, it's too old to have Start/Stop?

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It’s not a start/stop.

I just had a look and it’s a 075 one, looks replaced and the wire for the negative terminal looks pulled back as if it could fit a larger one.. 

I’ll probably go with 100 then.

thank you for the reply

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I bought and fitted a Lion one from ecc, £55. Couldn’t wait for delivery unfortunately. The 100 one was the correct fit lengthwise, the negative cable fits perfect now.

thank you for your help!

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I am sure some people are going to tell you it needs a silver calcium battery or something like that due to the smart charging systems on fords that charges at a higher voltage and lesser quality batteries can't take it and the plates inside buckle and the battery boils and fails earlier. I am not going to say you should not have bought it. It might not last as long as a better battery but price and how desperate you are for it now (and how long you think you might own the car) also come into play. So I am not criticising your decision.  But I am pretty sure there will be some more responses on this, at least if I had not posted this.

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Lead acid battery shouldn't damage anything on the car, but it won't last long before battery issues start showing up again.

Jump starting a smart-charge equipped car can damage electronics as you say though.  The smart-charge detects a cold battery with very low charge and tells the alternator to pump ~16v  into it, causing a surge on both that car and the jumper car which can blow bulbs and sensitive electronics.  People still do jump them all the time and get away with it most of the time though tbf.

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On 1/19/2019 at 10:38 AM, YOG said:

I normally buy from TAYNA.

These prices are + Delivery, for the 100. Depends how long you intend keeping the car. I normally go for the VARTA make, e.g. 5 year warranty with the E38:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/100/

I also go for Varta batteries, they're exactly the same batteries as Bosch but usually a bit less expensive.

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I have no brand preference on the battery, instead, I check for:

- batt chemistry, i.e Silver-Calcium or Ca-Ca, Silver-Calcium preferred for being able to withstand high under-the-hood temperatures. Ca-Ca batteries are excellent in cold but in hot weather they often go down.

- weight and production date; heavier the battery with recent production date, the better (Bosch and Varta is doing poorly on weight than other cheap brands)

- both Silver-Calcium and Ca-Ca need higher charging voltages (14.4 V) and have low water consumption unlike classic lead battery

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I had my battery go on me 2 years ago. One weekend I did a eenie meenie miney mo on google maps and settled on a place called Wells Next The Sea, it's in North Norfolk, so I drove out there, had a great day, was a 3 hour trip each way.

Next morning I came to car, wouldn't start, somehow that drive killed my battery.

I was unsure what to get but I settled on Yuasa YBX5100 high performance battery:

I think this was an upgrade at the time and one up from what was recommended and just about fits in the car.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yuasa-YBX5100-Performance-Starter-Battery/dp/B00KNQTXOK

5yr warranty and I have had no problems in last 2 years, starts immediately first time, every time 🙂

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I don't know what to make of it, its all a bit of a gamble - I replaced my original battery with a cheapish no name lead acid one about 5 or 6 years ago, thinking I might not keep the car that long and it has worked perfectly since.  Needed to get a few jump starts between the old one giving up the ghost and fitting the new one, no blown bulbs or anything else.  Maybe I have just been lucky on that count?

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1 hour ago, south_bound said:

I don't know what to make of it, its all a bit of a gamble - I replaced my original battery with a cheapish no name lead acid one about 5 or 6 years ago, thinking I might not keep the car that long and it has worked perfectly since.  Needed to get a few jump starts between the old one giving up the ghost and fitting the new one, no blown bulbs or anything else.  Maybe I have just been lucky on that count?

It sounds like your smart charge might not even be working...just defaulting to standard 14.4v instead.  The issue with both jump starts and lead acid batteries is the smart-charge.  As said though, loads of people do jump them every day, including the breakdown companies, it just comes down to luck really.  I am very surprised a lead acid battery has lasted so long on your car if the SC works though.

 

 

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All Ford's have had smart charge since the early 2000s.  Easiest way to see it is with a live data voltage reading, graph setting on Forscan is ideal.  When you first start the engine from cold the voltage should be high for a few seconds before dropping back to 14.4v (roughly).  If there's no spike to start with the smart charge probably isn't working.

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Appears that your smart charge works fine. Just to check; after the engine start measure the battery voltage. Is should be 14.4V. After engine reaches nominal operating temperature measured voltage should be 14.2V. Smart charge just reduces the alternator voltage output when engine is warm in order to reduce the thermal stress on the battery.

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10 minutes ago, Ned_Mk2_1.8tdci said:

 Smart charge just reduces the alternator voltage output when engine is warm in order to reduce the thermal stress on the battery.

That's not quite right.  Smart charge raises the voltage immediately after a cold start as it's easier to charge a cold battery.  It's generally about 15-16v after start up and drops back to around 14.4 as the battery/engine warms up.

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Tom,

Not quite right. 16V is overvoltage. For a more detailed description of the smart charging system feel free to check the link:

https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/focus_2004.75_07.2004/mechanical_repairs/4_electrical/414_battery_and_charging_system/414-00_charging_system_general_information/description_and_operation/charging_system/

Contains detailed description.

 

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On 1/19/2019 at 12:31 PM, isetta said:

I am sure some people are going to tell you it needs a silver calcium battery or something like that due to the smart charging systems on fords that charges at a higher voltage and lesser quality batteries can't take it and the plates inside buckle and the battery boils and fails earlier. I am not going to say you should not have bought it. It might not last as long as a better battery but price and how desperate you are for it now (and how long you think you might own the car) also come into play. So I am not criticising your decision.  But I am pretty sure there will be some more responses on this, at least if I had not posted this.

Fitted a Lion battery to my parents Fiesta, it was marked on the battery as "Calcium". Suggested by ECP's site and has a 3 year warranty.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/19/2019 at 10:38 AM, YOG said:

I normally buy from TAYNA.

These prices are + Delivery, for the 100. Depends how long you intend keeping the car. I normally go for the VARTA make, e.g. 5 year warranty with the E38:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/100/

.

Edited by 1979Damian
Being dense!
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