Mass air flow (maf) sensor was a problem on my old car that caused these symptoms? Split hose a mentioned above?

Hi all.

Im a bit late in this post and i jst started another one but did you all every sort the problem out. I bought a 2007 1.4 with 14,000 on the clock. the car has started doing the power loss thing to although i dont get any odd noises

many thanks

Jim

I'm going to post here because i opened a thread not too long ago about this. I have exactly the same symptoms and the things i've tried so far are sTp fuel cleaner & new air filter. I took my k&n air filter out and tried a ford. It didn't make much difference apart from acceleration seems to react better. I just came back from ford who saw the needle bouncing up and down at 1k-1.5k rpm (idle is fine) unless cold start (consider this normal). It never fails to start first time. I have however noticed a lack of power or like a choke.

Saying this i recently switched all my tyres from Hankook Ventus 2 -> Avon ZV5 and have noticed the car being a little heavier.

Main issue i have is sometimes when i want to push off fast my car cough's in the middle of the roundabout and then springs back to life. I do find it dangerous when all of a sudden i have no power to leap off the small time i have.

Now, i could say maybe this is a software issue detecting you trying to move off too fast, and hesitates so you don't skid. Easily done with Avon tyres. But i'm open to any type of conspiracy thinking.

Does anyone also get clunking in the gearbox when switching down gears 2nd - 1st?

1.4 Duratec Engine -_- < 1.0 ecoboost wannabe. :D

I dont get the cluck but mine has always suffered with being hard to change from 1st to 2nd. I posted a thread on this and its apparently a common issue. Have you ever tried this MAP sensor thing. Apparently they dont have the good old MAF anymore :(

Hi

I am new to this site, I have a ford fiesta 1.25 and the problem I have is the car starts and idls`s fine but as soon as I touch the throttle it cuts out until I go past a certin point, I have renewed the maf sensor and the camshaft sensor also the throttle body sensor and an idle bypass valve.

When the car is idling and I put the lights and heater on the revs die and car cuts out could this be a bad earth.

Hi all 

I have a 52 plate ford fiesta finesse petrol 

As rare as it sounds I've had a faulty spark plug so I've done throttle body coil pack HT leads and plugs and odd bits 

Speedo has recently broken so had to change it and since then problem as you've all described has started 

Haven't got any hissing noise 

Have noticed she's normally got a growl is the only way to describe it when you put your foot down however noise doesn't appear to be heard when she's pulling back 

Driving me up the wall so if anyone has cracked it please let me know only  bought the car for 800 and already spent over 1000 on it plus now need a new battery so if someone could help that would be amazing 

Thanks very much

Emily :)

Any updates on this i have the same on my wifes MK6 1.4, cleaned throttle body, pcv, tmap sensor however still the same, it seems however the exhaust is having a leak.. could this be the culpritt? I would say if there is a leak between the o2 sensors they would try to regulate air/fuel mix causing an irratic idle and or loss off power.

Sent From My Huawei P9 Lite

I had the same problem on my ford fiesta 1.6 2006 zetec s I changed the cat the spark plugs fuel and air filter oil filter and oil cam belt the lot I was still having the problem I noticed there's was coolent in the chanel where the spark plugs go in the center I was baffled because I check the water jets they seemed fine my mechanic said to me check the core plugs he knows his ford's I baught some core plugs of ebay for less than ten pounds there press in ones I changed them car is like new to drive I've been Tring to solve this for ages I think I might sell the car now its done 😉

For what its worth guys.

08 plate fusion 1.4 duratec.

Flat spot at idle and lack of power through the gears!

I noticed one of the posts saying they had a blowing rear box...

I had same and replaced box but nothing changed so after much thought I came up with this.

1. After the blow happened my o2 sensor detected the difference and the computer changed the mixture to compromise.

After replacing the box I connected the diagnostic reader to the OBD and wiped the previous faults reset the computer.

That done the trick but only after I had changed the o2 sensor, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, oil change to no avail.

cam and crank timing,fuel pump pressure,plugs and plug wires,blocked cat, battery terminals corroded, spray all disconnected plugs lubricant,

like you've mentioned,broken air pipes but that causes the idling to go up. computer reset after all the plugs were disconnected. if there is any problem like a wobbling pulley where the crank sensor must pick up timing then it will not have power as swell. i don't think that a crank can have so much play to cause timing issues especially on a new car(fairly). otherwise-auto electrician and not a mechanic.

vvt valves?

 

Any updates on the lack of power issue? 

I have an 07 fiesta 1.4i duratec,doing the same thing, cleaned all the sensors changed the pcv valve and idling became normal and cleared the engine and limp mode faults. Still lack of power, must say, never drive the car in limp mode! Due to too much fuel from faulty pcv, the cat got so hot it was looking like it was aboubto melt! The car could have caught fire! 

Still have the lack of power problem, any ideas plz! 

 

Thought I'd add my 2 cents on the idling/cutting out problem. Initially my car would turn over and immediately stall unless throttle was pressed until the car warmed up then it ran fine. I changed the air filter, little sponge in the box and cleaned the throttle body and MAP sensor to little difference as it still wouldn't start.

Then had the spark plugs and crankcase breather pipe (which had a small hole in) replaced at a garage as the coil pack and leads was fine as they had a spark, still didn't start or idle properly. I then took it home disconnected the negative terminal from the battery and connected a spark lead from the positive to the negative for 10-15 minutes (saw this online as a way to reset the ECU/idle) then started the car letting it sit for 15 minutes to relearn idle. At this point it started and idled fine however when releasing the clutch or letting off the acceleration the revs would rapidly drop to 500 and sometimes cut out. I recently took it to the garage at which point they reset the throttle body positioning with an advanced OBD scanner, since that no more low idling or stalling it drops to 750 ish and stays there.

So in my opinion it seemed to be the crankcase breather pipe letting in cold air as I had no problems starting the car in summer but only the last 2 winters. That or throttle body being dirty or combination of all the components I replaced listed above.