Hi All

Anyone know how to reset battery monitoring on the Mk 8?

I have tried the ignition on, dipped beam on, press rear fog light button 5 times and hazard button 3 times and wait for battery light to blink as suggested somewhere on the club website.

Doing this doesn't work on my Mk 8. Any suggestions?

that reset is for the mk7, the mark 8 I believe it can only be done with forescan but can't say 100%

1 hour ago, jsk said:

Hi All

Anyone know how to reset battery monitoring on the Mk 8?

I have tried the ignition on, dipped beam on, press rear fog light button 5 times and hazard button 3 times and wait for battery light to blink as suggested somewhere on the club website.

Doing this doesn't work on my Mk 8. Any suggestions?

Ign on, lights off or in auto mode

Rear fog press 5 times

Hazard press 5 times.

Battery lamp on dash flash....ign off.

Done

16 minutes ago, cjay1 said:

that reset is for the mk7, the mark 8 I believe it can only be done with forescan but can't say 100%

Yeah or do it with forscan......

 

What we calling a mk8? Mines a 13 plate facelift and gets called a mk8 by Ford....

16 hours ago, M6 44t car park attendant said:

 

What we calling a mk8? Mines a 13 plate facelift and gets called a mk8 by Ford....

Mk 8 is the current version from late 2017 on. Your Mk 7 facelift would be referred to as a Mk 7.5 on here.

I too tried the fog light/hazard x5 press and that didn't work. Does anyone have any other suggestions? 

Get into car and switch on ignition (not engine)

Turn on headlights 

Flash high beam 5 time

Press brake peddle 3 times 

Brake fault light on dash should flash

Switch off ignition 

Hope this works for you

Tried both disconnecting the battery and also tried the headlight on/headlight flash 5 times & brake pedal press three times. 

The second option does cause the battery symbol to flash several times. But it does not cure the problem. 

Neither solution gets my start / stop system to work on my Mk8 Fiesta Diesel with 11,00 miles on the clock. 

Prior to this, I've been delighted with the car. 

There are lots of reasons for it not to work but a 200 mile run seems to fix them all.

 

Oh how I love start/stop 😀

If it had never been invented there would only be half the threads in these forums.

So Stop/Start only works when: The battery charge is above the minimum 80% level. Provided that the battery temprature is not too hot, and not too cold. It won't work if you have the heated rear or heated front window on. It won't work unless the engine is at a minimum temprature. There are about another 10 things that have to be just right and then and only then will it work.

The only way that you stand even half a chance of keeping the system working is to keep your battery fully charged and drive at least 50 miles a day, every day.

Mine has worked well since having a full charge some six months ago. On the occasions where it didn't work, it came back once a few more miles were run. I average a 200 mile run every couple of months, otherwise the car rarely goes more than ten miles. The original battery is four years old and working fine. The instrument cluster display can be used to find out what is going on and in the event of Aircon set to lo, seat belt off, engine not warmed up yet or low battery charge it will tell you why. Fuel level below 25 miles inhibits it, too. It is easier to understand how it works so you can understand why it doesn't. It rarely fails but often doesn't behave as expected

 

53 minutes ago, anon said:

It rarely fails but often doesn't behave as expected

I'm not a fan of start/stop systems and, because, like you, I don't do much regular mileage these days, normally switch it off when I get in the car. When I forget to do so, though, it usually works, oddly enough.

6 minutes ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

normally switch it off when I get in the car

I have semi-disabled mine (would love to 100% disable it if I could find out how). Across the back of the back of the switch I have fitted a 10 ohm resistor. This means that the first time that the stop/start operates on a journey it thinks I have pressed the off button and it won't work again for the rest of that trip.

1 hour ago, unofix said:

I have semi-disabled mine (would love to 100% disable it if I could find out how). 

I've seen devices advertised on US websites which go on the back of the switch and automatically switch it off as soon as it switches itself on (if that makes sense😀). Never seen anything here though. 

 

My stop/start seems to work about once every 3 months, last time I had driven less than a mile on a cold engine and it kicked in just the once.

I drive between 100 - 150 each weekday, so would expect it to work more often.

Our S/S worked again  once the battery was fully recharged.

It also worked on a cold engine as it cut in at the traffic lights at the end of the main road 700 metres away from our front door.

However like everyone else keeps saying, it worked as it should of for 2 days and now after 90 odd miles in the last two days running around locally it doesnt work 🙄

My commute is now only 12 miles for the week so I dont expect it to as I'm not putting back the charge into the battery that I use to start the car in the first place.

Incidentally my future Son in law has recently bought a Hyundai Kona (Petrol) and his works perfectly every single time just as it used to in the Mk3 Focus.

For those who would like their Stop/Start system to work most of the time you can adjust the battery SOC from the factory setting of 80% and increase it to 95% (or more if you like) and you will find S/S works.

"For those who would like their Stop/Start system to work most of the time you can adjust the battery SOC from the factory setting of 80% and increase it to 95% (or more if you like) and you will find S/S works." 

Please advise on how to do this. 

Thanks 

Hello Paul, you need to use a laptop with Forscan software and an ELM327 lead to connect to the OBDII port.

Forscan can be downloaded for free from here: https://forscan.org/download.html

The ELM327 lead from Tunnelrat Electronics: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

How good is your German ? (not very, well don't worry there are english subtitles) Watch the video and he will show you how to set the battery State Of Charge

 

 

I did increase my battery charge level to 90%, which hasn't made any difference, might have to make it a bit higher. 

Hi @MarkRS9 after you changed it to 90% did you fully charge your battery overnight and also reset the BMS ?

I have mine set at 95% and even though I don't like or use the Stop/Start system I know it is active and it works once each and every journey I make before my little mod turns it off.

If you decide not to charge your battery it will take a while before the battery level reaches the point that S/S will kick in again.

The charge level is set to 80% because this is the level at which the battery lasts longest. Expect battery life to halve with every extra 10%.

9 minutes ago, anon said:

The charge level is set to 80% because this is the level at which the battery lasts longest. Expect battery life to halve with every extra 10%.

Thats intresting information, where did you get those figures from ?

Published data on EFB charging technology, Bosch or Varta, I forget which.  This is the reason why the car carries a heavier and more expensive battery than it would have to do if it were to be charged to 100% in normal use. Ford don't waste money on the likes of us! From my recollection, a fully charged battery gasses more which reduces its protection against sulphation wheras in holding an 80% charge, the optimum balance is struck between cell life and  cold cranking capacity (which you would think would be better if the battery were to be fully charged.)

4 hours ago, unofix said:

Hi @MarkRS9 after you changed it to 90% did you fully charge your battery overnight and also reset the BMS ?

I have mine set at 95% and even though I don't like or use the Stop/Start system I know it is active and it works once each and every journey I make before my little mod turns it off.

If you decide not to charge your battery it will take a while before the battery level reaches the point that S/S will kick in again.

I didn't charge the battery or reset the BMS, after changing the setting, I have driven about 1,000 miles in 2 weeks since I did it, thought stop/start might have started to work.

I have a voltage gauge in the cockpit, which reads 15v when it starts charging and slowly goes down to 13.8 over a journey of about 100miles. In the morning the voltage gauge normally reads between 12.2v-12.4v before starting the car.