I am going to take out and clean my throttle body today is there a calibration that needs to be done after disconnecting also the Haynes manual states to drain down the coolant on this engine is this needed regards 

Focus 2007 1.8 petrol estate 

You don't need to drain the coolant. Might be worth replacing the throttle position sensor if you are taking the throttle body out. Problem more likely a fault sensor.

Yes it sometimes idles erratically and them cuts out but only when cold I have changed the inlet runner valve but going to try this you can't change the TPS as its a complete unit on this Model they are £35 on eBay ? 

I did throttle body cleaning for my (euro) Focus 2.0 DuratecHE (mk2.5, ~143400 km / 89104 mi on clock) at last Nov. It has electronic throttle body.

There's not required to drain coolant, but I don't know how's it for 1.8 Duratec HE or US models.

I also removed 'throttle position sensor' (black plastic part of throttle body), but don't do it, cause that's not required for cleaning.
 

Clean an electronic throttle body
I didn't renew sealing - simply cause I wasn't prepared for cleaning, but did it as per unscheduled during one Saturday.

Throttle Body Cleaning + Maintenance????
I read some forum (can't recall which one), that WD40 is not recommended (can't recall why), but you should use throttle body cleaner (so I used it).


PCM relearn required while Duratec HE with electronic throttle body involved.
I's read it from Ford/Focus forums, but decided to test, what happened, if I wouldn't do relearning. Main issue was, that idle remains ~1200 rpm, no matter was engine cold or warm.

So, I did PCM relearn and now it runs like (almost) new car.
How to do a Ford throttle body relearn procedure 

 

Cleaning was worth of it - knocking and stalling (while tried to start moving with low revs) disappeared as well as idle settled (earlier dropped to ~500 and then pop-up ~1200 before settling to round 900; e.g. when approaching roundabouts/junctions, etc. i.e. while driving and releasing gas pedal).

So this might model definitely needs to be relearned then 

Gibbo. You could remove the sensor and put a multimeter across the pin contacts. Set it to ohms and use a screwdriver to turn the sensor post. The readings shoul go up or down smoothly as you turn the sensor. I suspect you will see it jump about unevenly. Not sure if you can clean the contacts inside the sensor as it might be sealed. A cheap multi meter costing less than 10 pound that reads ohms is all you need. Hold it across any 2 of the 3 sensor pins and see what reading you get.

13 minutes ago, gibbo1471 said:

So this might model definitely needs to be relearned then 

Yep.
Overall, there seems to be several different throttle bodies and I think, the easiest way to identify one in your car is just open the bonnet and see.

Coolant can go via throttle body (or not), mechanical (I think, separate TPS and cable from gas pedal to throttle involved) vs electrical throttle bodies (TPS included in body and electronic gas pedal - like in my 2.0 DuratecHE), differences between Euro and US Focus, differences between Duratec and DuratecHE, differences between Focus and C-Max, and so on.

Anyhow, IMO, relearn process has to be done, if electronic throttle body involved.

Ok thank you all so what is the definite relearn process 

Here’s the throttle body relearn procedure

Clear the PCM adaptive memory

1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2) Run a jumper wire from the positive battery cable to the now disconnected negative battery cable terminal. NOTE. Do this with the negative cable DISCONNECTED from the battery. The short circuit you’re creating here is designed to drain all power from the capacitors inside the PCM. Leave the jumper connected for about 2-mins.

3) Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.

Turn off all electrical accessories before proceeding. Turn off headlights, blower motor, radio, wipers, etc.

4) Turn the key to run and wait for all warning lights to turn off. During the period the PCM will command the throttle body plate to sweep from full open to full close to “learn” the new positions.

5) Start the engine and let it idle for a full 10-mins until it reaches full operating temperature. During this period the idle may be higher than normal. It should slowly drop as the engine heats up. Watch the engine temp gauge and note when it reaches operating temp. Then continue to let it idle for an additional 5 minutes. It will continue to adjust idle during this period.

6) Drive the vehicle at various speed so the PCM learns shift points

Does this seem safe 

Why wouldn't it be safe?

You may try to drain capacitors by letting battery to be disconnected for a couple of hours.
Focus Ecu Reset & Learn

20 hours ago, gibbo1471 said:

Run a jumper wire from the positive battery cable to the now disconnected negative battery cable terminal

I know you've taken this from this website but in my opinion this is very ambiguously worded. What it means to say is connect the two cables together, NOT jumper to the battery negative terminal. It should have left off the word 'terminal' from the above statement.

On 1/12/2020 at 1:17 PM, gibbo1471 said:

Does this seem safe 

I followed this procedure 18 months or so when I carried out a throttle body clean on my wife's MK2.5 1.8 HE and I didn't experience any problems.  Although instead of bridging any battery connections I just left the negative cable OFF the battery for 10 minutes and left the headlights manually turned on to drain any residual current in the system.

On 1/12/2020 at 10:43 AM, AR7530v6 said:

Yep.
Overall, there seems to be several different throttle bodies and I think, the easiest way to identify one in your car is just open the bonnet and see.

Coolant can go via throttle body (or not), mechanical (I think, separate TPS and cable from gas pedal to throttle involved) vs electrical throttle bodies (TPS included in body and electronic gas pedal - like in my 2.0 DuratecHE), differences between Euro and US Focus, differences between Duratec and DuratecHE, differences between Focus and C-Max, and so on.

Anyhow, IMO, relearn process has to be done, if electronic throttle body involved.

I think part of the confusion comes from the fact that the USA didn't get the MK2 Focus, when Europe got the MK2, they carried on with the MK1 and then went straight to the MK3.

 

As a result I don't think they ever got the "latest" Duratec engines which have an electronic TPS.  Instead of the MK2 Europe got, they got a heavily revised (cosmetically) MK1 i.e. same chassis but fancier bodywork and interior.

So still rough and cut out so where is the egr valve and the idle speed control valve if it has them 

15 minutes ago, gibbo1471 said:

So still rough and cut out so where is the egr valve and the idle speed control valve if it has them 

The EGR is the thing shaded in yellow on the image below.  The plastic pipe hose to the right hand side is NOT part of the EGR but it sits in front of it in terms of getting access to the bolts so it makes it a bit of a pain to get the EGR off.

Thank you is the PCV hose easy to change 

Just now, gibbo1471 said:

Thank you is the PCV hose easy to change 

You're welcome mate.  Sadly the PCV valve/hose are a pain the ***** because Mazda thought it was a great idea to put 2 service items inside the ***** inlet manifold, so the only way to get at them is to remove the entire inlet manifold.

On 1/12/2020 at 12:00 PM, AR7530v6 said:

I did throttle body cleaning for my (euro) Focus 2.0 DuratecHE (mk2.5, ~143400 km / 89104 mi on clock) at last Nov. It has electronic throttle body.

There's not required to drain coolant, but I don't know how's it for 1.8 Duratec HE or US models.

I also removed 'throttle position sensor' (black plastic part of throttle body), but don't do it, cause that's not required for cleaning.
 

Clean an electronic throttle body
I didn't renew sealing - simply cause I wasn't prepared for cleaning, but did it as per unscheduled during one Saturday.

Throttle Body Cleaning + Maintenance????
I read some forum (can't recall which one), that WD40 is not recommended (can't recall why), but you should use throttle body cleaner (so I used it).


PCM relearn required while Duratec HE with electronic throttle body involved.
I's read it from Ford/Focus forums, but decided to test, what happened, if I wouldn't do relearning. Main issue was, that idle remains ~1200 rpm, no matter was engine cold or warm.

So, I did PCM relearn and now it runs like (almost) new car.
How to do a Ford throttle body relearn procedure 

 

Cleaning was worth of it - knocking and stalling (while tried to start moving with low revs) disappeared as well as idle settled (earlier dropped to ~500 and then pop-up ~1200 before settling to round 900; e.g. when approaching roundabouts/junctions, etc. i.e. while driving and releasing gas pedal).

Pictures reattached