Hi all new to the club, own a Ford Galaxy Mk3 Ghia TDI, glad to find this forum.

Had a bit of an accident with a stationary wall recently and successfully sourced replacement front and rear offside passenger doors which are a perfect match. The donor doors came complete with cabling, ECU, plus electronics and confirmed after testing that the central locking, audio speaker and all windows function correctly from both the local and drivers controls. However after a few days I noticed that the car battery was being drained and the car wasnt starting due to a dead battery. I should say have an electrical and electronic background so decided to do this myself as a project ad to keep the costs down.

I've measure the ampere consumption and found after a while, typically an hour or so, the current drain reduces to 0.58 amperes instead the expected 30mA.

After extensive testing I've identified that if I unplug one of the the connectors to the front passenger door ECU which controls the central locking, electric wing mirror and window from the drivers side switch the current drops to 10mA. I managed to eliminate the possibility of a cabling/connector problem, using a spare cabling harness for the door albeit with the same results.

I have a spare donor front passenger door ECU which I swapped with the same results. I disconnected all devices downstream from the ECU again with the same results and I am starting to suspect that the donor door ECUs I am using may need programming to pair with the rest of the car ? Does anyone have any experience/knowledge to confirm that my thinking might be correct.

Assuming I am correct how difficult is it to programme the ECU, I have an ODB2 dongle and Torque pro installed on the car stereo in case this might do the job.  

 

   

 

  

Why no-one answering?