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Need some help/advice please..........

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Hi all i have a Fiesta Zetec-s 1.6 2008 MK6 Petrol.

Great car had since 2010,serviced every 5k without fail and never gave me any real problems until now.

Car has 125k miles on it.Good strong engine and everything else is fine other than a bit shabby bodywork getting.


Now here is my problem..........

I had the ABS light come on and 1 of the 3 ABS fuses in glovebox ,the 30amp one had blown.I replaced the fuse and drove short time and the new fuse blew also.Brakes were operating fine albeit probably without the ABS system.

I was told with the 30a fuse blowing it was more likely to be the ABS Pump/motor thats had a short circuit.                                         

Also got a code C1095 which stated 'Pump motor circuit failure'

I try to check the wiring of the plug that goes into module to see if there any melted or cut etc (couldnt get plug off so i took whole ABS unit out if anything just for visual inspection) and with the idea of getting the unit tested out the car.

The place that was going to test the abs unit (pump/motor/module) let me down so i decided best to put unit back into car and maybe get it to a garage to be tested while in the car and get an expert opinion before i start splashing the cash.

I am not a full blown mechanic but can do most stuff with the haynes by my side lol.

Anyway this is where i get more problems now.I refitted the unit and put everything back to exactly the way it was.

Doing a scan with my basic tool tells me the 'ABS Module' U0121 is no longer communicating with the car.Now before i took the unit out i never got this code so it implied the module was fine beforehand.

I also get a code P1000 now which i understand is the car ecu not completeing a full check or load up etc?

The only difference between the ABS module being in car,taken out and then refitted is that i completely disconnected the battery.Now i dont know if this is where i am getting issues because i disconnected the whole battery in order to get the ABS unit out or has the Module decided to just give up coincidentally.

I have absolutely no brakes now but i know this is down to having to bleed them due to the loss of brake fluid when disconnecting the ABS unit.The engine still runs and will drive.

I did stick my multimeter across the 30a fuse location in the glovebox before taking the unit out and at top of my head am sure i read around 10v or more present.Doing the same now(after abs unit has been refitted and not communicating),i get a slow voltage rising to about 4v then fluctuating around this number.


So to sum up the car starts no problem and will drive no problem. The issue is that the ABS module is not communicating and the p1000 code i get.I know if i send to ford am looking at around £1000 to have repaired,money i dont have so if i cant find a solution and with a lower price tag it will be yet another ford off the road.The car has loads of life in her and it has well paid for itself.Just a shame if i were to leave it and eventually scrap it.


Would appreciate any help or advice.


I have also seen Refurbished ABS units (module/pump/motor) that come with warranty at a good price and if i were to fit one i was told it would be plug and play and will work no problem.On the other hand i was told by some that if i fitted one i would have to get the new module 'wriiten' to the car whereas the seller stated i wouldnt have to.Any ideas please?

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You can send it to Ecu testing they will repair it ,And it won’t need recoding to your car as it’s the original unit ,I am not sure if it does in fact need coding to your car,you can check this out yourself It shouldn’t cost a lot 

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When is the MOT? you could bleed the brakes and if the brakes then work use the car with the ABS light on. Of course this means that the ABS probably does not work but driving a car with no ABS is not in itself unsafe as there are cars on the road which never had ABS in the first place (eg my 2004 VW Lupo). Of course it would not pass MOT test with ABS light on and you would of course not admit to making a concious decision to drive it knowing the ABS was defective.  Also if it's all up and running properly other than the ABS light is on there will be people willing to buy it at the right price either because they think they can fix it or they don't care (more likely if MOT is long). 

For anyone else reading this who has a car pre 01 Jan 2010 the MOT rules do allow you to get round faulty ABS by removing ABS. But that is not straightforward as you would need to join together the pipes going in and out of the ABS unit. And there's that bit about telling your insurance company of the modification (or not) and I can't imagine anyone at an insurance company will like the sound of that even though they are happy to insure cars that never had ABS when made. 

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