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Some advice for a new owner


momo.momo

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Hi guys

Hope everyone is keeping safe and well.

I have just purchased a 2011 Ford¬†Focus Titanium 1.6 EcoBoost SCTi (150ps) in Dark Micastone (grey¬†ūüôĄ)¬†for a young family member. I got the vehicle at a super super price so couldn't let the opportunity pass.

Of course I did a few obligatory checks and the car is on the surface, perfect. However I did not have time to do my research as I normally would, on a car model/engine, prior to purchase, due to the nature of the opportunity to buy the car at a great price. 

I personally don't have a huge amount of experience with Fords but am a car guy and very experienced in mechanics. 

Having done a quick search, I can see there are a few things I should be wary of on this model/engine. 

I was hoping someone could tell me all the things I should really be looking at or checking over on this car - aside from the normal things which I will do as I service the car.

So far I have noted:

1) A coolant issue- there was recall I believe. How would I confirm if the work has been carried out? On ETIS there are no outstanding service actions on this vehicle- does this mean it must have been carried out? What was the fix, the coolant level sensor? Does this mean the car can still lose coolant but the low level light will mean the car can be stopped and topped up immediately- not really a solution but better than nothing. 

I read the proper way to fix this is to change the hoses to the mk3.5 ones, however, these will continue to fail so I have to change the pump and reservoir too?

Am I being a bit paranoid about this issue or should I go ahead and change these parts over for peace of mind?

2) Clutch recall. Again ETIS shows no outstanding work required so I presume this would have been done?

Maybe I can call my local Ford dealership and ask what wok has been carried out on the vehicle- if they are able to check this on their systems. 

3) Finally are there any other things I should be looking out for on this vehicle or addressing - common issues or failures?

 

Thanks for all your help!

 

 

 

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1. You've been reading too many EcoBoost threads and combined the 1.0 and 1.6 faults lol.

The degas hose issue is only for the 1.0 EcoBoost.  It's these where the recall replacement hose still breaks and we suggest fitting the facelift hoses instead. 

The 1.6 EcoBoost recall was just to fit a low level sensor and add a PCM update.  And yes, the engine can still lose coolant but at least you have some warning.  The original issue was caused by the coolant loss cracking the cylinder head and causing a potential fire risk with oil leaking onto the exhaust. 

We see far more 1.0 EcoBoosts losing coolant and cooking engines than 1.6's on here though.  I think you have to be pretty unlucky to get a faulty 1.6 now.  The 1.0's are still blowing degas hoses all over the place lol...

2.  Clutch slip detection recall will have been applied already if it's not showing on ETIS.

3. Water ingress - check the boot and rear footwells for dampness.  Check the air conditioning works.  Check the electrics work, horn, cruise control buttons etc.  

Depending on how young they are, it might be worth checking they can insure a 1.6 turbo - if it's for a learner or under 20 you might struggle to insure it.

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Thanks for the detailed and helpful reply. 

Yes¬†itI seems I have mixed the different ecoboost/engine issues ¬†ūüėģ

Great, so it seems there isn't a huge deal to be concerned about with the 1.6. The low level sensor is good enough and will ensure this issue doesn't occur. 

Nothing is showing up on ETIS so I will presume all recall work must have been carried out at some point. 

I will check the boot and rear footwells for dampness as per your suggestion. 

I have checked insurance and it will insurable and at a reasonable cost- thank you for the advice. 

Going forward, I will give the car a good service.

Would anyone be able to give me some service information for this engine- service intervals-  i.e auxiliary belt, timing belt etc

I found something online, see image attached. Not sure how accurate this is:

 

1.thumb.png.0ff4a6d749932b0844f7769296f28144.png

 

 

Also found this on Haynes: 

 

2.thumb.png.a4850b22225602606744fdc3a1ff61a9.png

3.thumb.png.d28550ba59ce122293e55d93827838c4.png

Appreciate the help I have received so far. 

Thank you

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Yep, those look about right.

Every 1 year/12.5k miles:

oil & oil filter change
Pollen filter change
 

Every 3 years/37.5k miles:

Spark plug change
Air filter change
 

Every 10 years/125k miles:

Cambelt, aux belt, coolant change

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Hi.

Please feel free to give us a try for insurance if you wish.

Regards,

Dan.

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On 11/8/2020 at 10:12 AM, TomsFocus said:

Yep, those look about right.

Every 1 year/12.5k miles:

Oil & oil filter change
Pollen filter change
 

Every 3 years/37.5k miles:

Spark plug change
Air filter change
 

Every 10 years/125k miles:

Cambelt, aux belt, coolant change

Thanks Tom. Will have the car with me tomorrow so will go over everything then. You have been super helpful so far.

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1 hour ago, DAN@ADRIAN FLUX said:

Hi.

Please feel free to give us a try for insurance if you wish.

Regards,

Dan.

Thanks Dan, I have used you guys before and will keep you in mind. 

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Got the car today Tom.

It drives very well and passed its MOT with no faults or advisories. 

Well what can I say, I was hoping for no water in the boot and behold, there is water (damp) on both sides. Ill take off the bumper and try sealing the vents as per the 'fix' everyone else has used. Ill also take off the linings and check the footwells to see how far its travelled. 

I noted a few odd issues here and there but nothing major. 

I need some further guidance with the following if anyone can help:

1) The media unit in the middle comes on, works 100% as far as I can tell, connects to phone bluetooth, will play a cd, cycles all the stations etc but there is zero sound coming from any of the Speakers. Is this is an issue that has come up before with the Mk3 Focus models? Still need to investigate it further but thought I would ask incase its a common fault. 

2) What is the torque value for the wheel nuts - 130nm is what's in the handbook off the top of my head, however, a search shows me that it all depends on what nuts the car is fitted with - or am I muddling different models up again?

3) The rear pads needs replacing. I like to when possible use the correct torque values when working on cars- what should the caliper bolts be tightened to- I believe I read 28nm in a few places.

4) One of the roof mouldings (black strips that run on either side) has an end bit missing. I can add a picture if it makes it easier to understand. I presume this will not be available separately and I will need to source the whole moulding?

Thank you again.

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Welcome to the leaky boot club! :biggrin:  

1. Lots of odd audio issues occur with these.  You can try pulling the audio fuses for a few minutes to reset it.  Or remove the fascia, check for a loose plug and if nothing obvious, unplug and re-plug the unit just in case.  (I take it you've checked it's not just muted or volume on 0 lol)

2. 135Nm for solid, one piece nuts.  On a 2011 it'll still use the older style wheel nuts.  They changed to global nuts mid 2012.  

3. Rear carrier bolts 70Nm.  Caliper slide pins 28Nm.

4. Don't think it's available separately but if you can add the picture I'll double check.  The whole roof strip costs about £75 from Ford and they are sided.  There is a genuine one on eBay for £45 if it's driver side you need.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-mk3-Drivers-roof-gutter-trim-unused-genuine-1724500/402508332132  Or you can probably pick up a used one for about £10 at a local breakers yard.

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14 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Welcome to the leaky boot club! :biggrin:  

1. Lots of odd audio issues occur with these.  You can try pulling the audio fuses for a few minutes to reset it.  Or remove the fascia, check for a loose plug and if nothing obvious, unplug and re-plug the unit just in case.  (I take it you've checked it's not just muted or volume on 0 lol)

2. 135Nm for solid, one piece nuts.  On a 2011 it'll still use the older style wheel nuts.  They changed to global nuts mid 2012.  

3. Rear carrier bolts 70Nm.  Caliper slide pins 28Nm.

4. Don't think it's available separately but if you can add the picture I'll double check.  The whole roof strip costs about £75 from Ford and they are sided.  There is a genuine one on ebay for £45 if it's driver side you need.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-mk3-Drivers-roof-gutter-trim-unused-genuine-1724500/402508332132  Or you can probably pick up a used one for about £10 at a local breakers yard.

ūüėā¬†Exclusive club!

1) Ill check all these possible fixes out once I've dealt with the water in the car.

2) So if my car has the older style wheels nuts its 130nm and it will be 135m for the newer solid one piece ones?

3) Thank you for torque values for the rear brakes.

4) I will take a picture tomorrow. I came across this moulding on eBay already but seriously appreciate you taking the time do the quick search and posting on here. Very kind of you. Its as you say I suspect, I may need the whole strip.

5) I have decided to change the spark plugs on this too. I don't always trust ECP with the plugs they suggest for the model. After a search there seems to be some serious discussions online about the gapping on the plugs and what to use leaving be confused. 

On the NGK site it says I require ILZTR6A8G. Would the NGK recommendation be reliable- I looked at NGK as its what the forums keep recommending. Or is there a plug that everyone recommends or uses on these 1.6 engines. 

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2.  Sorry, that was poorly worded!  135Nm is for the older single piece nuts which I'm 99% sure you'll have, though the difference between 130 and 135Nm is nothing on wheel nuts and it does differ between the 2 depending on where you look - I suspect this is due to the US conversion of 100ft lbs.

You shouldn't have the later global nuts on a 2011 car though they remained the same torque setting anyway.  And you shouldn't have the earlier 2 piece (spinning cone) nuts on a Mk3, but they were only 110Nm.  Also worth noting, if any of the nuts have lost their metal caps, you'll need to use an 18mm socket for those ones.

5. Haven't seen much discussion on 1.6EB plugs, there has been a huge amount on the older Zetec engines as they were gapped wrong from the factory...this led to various rumours and much confusion lol.  From memory, 1.6EB plugs should be 0.8mm and NGK will be absolutely fine.  Someone like @JW1982 will correct me if I'm wrong on that!

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On 11/13/2020 at 1:04 AM, momo.momo said:

ūüėā¬†Exclusive club!

1) Ill check all these possible fixes out once I've dealt with the water in the car.

2) So if my car has the older style wheels nuts its 130nm and it will be 135m for the newer solid one piece ones?

3) Thank you for torque values for the rear brakes.

4) I will take a picture tomorrow. I came across this moulding on eBay already but seriously appreciate you taking the time do the quick search and posting on here. Very kind of you. Its as you say I suspect, I may need the whole strip.

5) I have decided to change the spark plugs on this too. I don't always trust ECP with the plugs they suggest for the model. After a search there seems to be some serious discussions online about the gapping on the plugs and what to use leaving be confused. 

On the NGK site it says I require ILZTR6A8G. Would the NGK recommendation be reliable- I looked at NGK as its what the forums keep recommending. Or is there a plug that everyone recommends or uses on these 1.6 engines. 

NGK make very good spark plugs so as long as you get the correct spec plugs you don't need to worry about that aspect of things.

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So, I've had helluva week with this car.

1) I serviced the car over the weekend- oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, rear brake pads, brake fluid flush and coolant flush. On my other cars I would usually reset the service reminder/system so it knows a service has been carried out- even if done early. Am I correct in saying this is not possible with the Ford? How does the vehicle know or tell me when a new service is due- based on mileage/time or does it have a way to check the oil etc?

On a side note, the caliper slide pins on this car gave me the hardest time I've ever had with any slide pins. They were dry but even with the correct grease applied liberally they would not cooperate once it came time to tighten back up. I think the rubber boots may need changing or have swelled. Has anyone else ever had this issue?

2) I fixed the vents behind the rear bumper- I say fixed but I mean I removed, cleaned and sealed up with silicone. There was a huge amount of water in the area behind the bumper and it had been there for some time meaning it had soaked all the way up to the front of the car. The whole car was very wet inside but it was hard to tell as the foam/sponge holds onto the water at the lowest points. I had to remove the seats, the complete carpet and get the sponge/foam out from under the carpet to suck the water out and dry everything before refitting. I pretty much had the whole car stripped including the boot. There was also mould growing in a number of areas in the car due to the damp. All sorted now.

I can attach a video of the water draining from the bung in the rear under the car anyones interested?

image.thumb.jpeg.55846e4c6b4f375e9e803a98897c9a72.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.8700468e9325530c8ed32750d0d11a86.jpeg

 

3) The wheel nuts- why did they use this design with the cap on top? Its was horrible to deal with- some had loose covers so had to remove and some were deformed so socket would not go on- I presume from a tyre place previously used by the owner. One locking wheel nut was also seized so had to cut that off. I wish to remove the original wheel nuts from the car and replace. 

Is it recommended to use a aftermarket one piece wheel nut? Can someone suggest or advise of some one piece nuts they have used before that I can feel comfortable using?

How are these:

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/bimecc-wheel-bolt-nut-924590191

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/febi-wheel-bolt-nut-924660101

 

Im also going to get some new locking wheel nuts to replace the current set of which one I had to cut off.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/locking-wheel-kits

 

I think ill need some guidance with the correct ones that will fit. 

 

4)

On 11/12/2020 at 10:07 AM, TomsFocus said:

4. Don't think it's available separately but if you can add the picture I'll double check.  The whole roof strip costs about £75 from Ford and they are sided.  There is a genuine one on ebay for £45 if it's driver side you need.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-mk3-Drivers-roof-gutter-trim-unused-genuine-1724500/402508332132  Or you can probably pick up a used one for about £10 at a local breakers yard.

Thanks Tom. Please see images attached. I presume the end clip does come away but is most likely not sold seperarely?

image.thumb.jpeg.d389572f5eb9be25631561eb6e2b30b0.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.e3ded25fccb3973d0ef51d3e07f52f0a.jpeg

 

5) I found out why the Speakers were are not working. I removed the radio from the car (the fascia, the silver box and the screen. Someone has spilled coke or coffee down the front of the screen and this has dripped onto the silver box (control unit?) and having taken that all apart, I can see it has corroded and destroyed the soldered joints of a large component on the board and its not something I have time to fix with soldering at this time. This explains why none of the Speakers work but the media system all fully works and is operational. 

I was hoping this would be a simple fix. It seems my luck has not been too great so far lol. 

image.thumb.jpeg.00db0b3359b354f6381cf75f121a23b5.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.388dabfbfaf4f0a0349e58cce3f2c9fe.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.93f95024748092e9dd77860578487107.jpeg

This is board inside the control unit.

 

My unit has the part number: BM5T-18C815-XE

I can see there are many units on eBay with the last 2 letters different. Could someone help find a unit that will fit? Am I limited to the exact part number I have or do I have more options available?

image.thumb.png.abcb399b9f8bb1583ed3c7ee61ab0216.png

 

 

It seems @JW1982  is the expert in these matters also?

 

Hope someone can help me with the control unit ASAP as im trying to get this fixed by Friday.

 

Thanks guys. 

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Part number BM5T-18C815-XE (Finis 1747512) has the following specifications:

  • From: 03-01-2011 To: 08-08-2011 ICE-Mid Audio Branded + DAB, With 9 Radio Speakers


Branded = Sony Audio System.

The fact that it is a 9-speaker Sony audio system that is based on the old Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system limits the amount of suitable replacement part numbers.

The following part numbers should be compatible:

BM5T-18C815-XA
BM5T-18C815-XB
BM5T-18C815-XC
BM5T-18C815-XD
BM5T-18C815-XN

Part number BM5T-18C815-XN is the latest available version of this 9-speaker ACM. This part number supports both the old Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system and the later SYNC 1.0/1.1 system.

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9 hours ago, JW1982 said:

Part number BM5T-18C815-XE (Finis 1747512) has the following specifications:

  • From: 03-01-2011 To: 08-08-2011 ICE-Mid Audio Branded + DAB, With 9 Radio Speakers


Branded = Sony Audio System.

The fact that it is a 9-speaker Sony audio system that is based on the old Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system limits the amount of suitable replacement part numbers.

The following part numbers should be compatible:

BM5T-18C815-XA
BM5T-18C815-XB
BM5T-18C815-XC
BM5T-18C815-XD
BM5T-18C815-XN

Part number BM5T-18C815-XN is the latest available version of this 9-speaker ACM. This part number supports both the old Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system and the later SYNC 1.0/1.1 system.

Thank you so much for the info and fast reply! I will get searching.

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Based on the pictures it is definitely worth a try to clean the circuit board of the ACM.

The part that is contaminated is the amplifier IC. The amplifier IC has an integrated protection circuit. It will simply disable the speaker output when a short circuit (or low resistance) between the IC pins is detected.
 

The circuit board can be cleaned by performing the following steps:

* Submerse the circuit board in warm water with a mild, non aggressive cleaning agent for approximately 15 minutes.
* Gently clean the circuit board using a soft brush.
* Rinse the circuit board with clean water.
* Pre-heat an oven to 100 degrees Celsius.
* Put the circuit board in the oven for approximately 30 Minutes. All components on the circuit board can easily withstand a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.
* Let the circuit board cool down.
* Assemble and test the ACM.


In the past I successfully repaired many Focus MK2/MK2.5 and MK3/MK3.5 ACM's. Even a few that had been stored in humid conditions for an extensive period.

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Blimey, looks like you've had fun there! :biggrin:  

1. There isn't a service reminder on these so nothing to reset.  You just have to remember when it's due...

2. Looks like a tidy job, nice one!

3. Yeah, those caps have always been a pain when people use air tools on them.  I got some genuine new ones (had a source as a Ford tech lol) and they lasted 3 years without a single one coming loose as I only ever used hand tools on wheel nuts and don't let a garage near them lol.  I'm not sure either of those nuts linked are correct, the Bimecc one looks like a 'Global' nut which was used from 2012 onwards and may not be compatible with your wheels.   And the Febi one looks like shocking quality tbh.  These are the OE type Febi ones that people usually buy - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Wheel-Nut-Fits-Ford-C-Max-Fiesta-Focus-Kuga-Mondeo-Transit-Febi-46674/173796558399

4. Hmm, I can't see that as a separate part in the parts catalogue.  I reckon any local breakers yard will give you one for free though!  Or a couple of quid to get one posted.

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9 hours ago, JW1982 said:

Based on the pictures it is definitely worth a try to clean the circuit board of the ACM.

The part that is contaminated is the amplifier IC. The amplifier IC has an integrated protection circuit. It will simply disable the speaker output when a short circuit (or low resistance) between the IC pins is detected.
 

The circuit board can be cleaned by performing the following steps:

* Submerse the circuit board in warm water with a mild, non aggressive cleaning agent for approximately 15 minutes.
* Gently clean the circuit board using a soft brush.
* Rinse the circuit board with clean water.
* Pre-heat an oven to 100 degrees Celsius.
* Put the circuit board in the oven for approximately 30 Minutes. All components on the circuit board can easily withstand a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.
* Let the circuit board cool down.
* Assemble and test the ACM.


In the past I successfully repaired many Focus MK2/MK2.5 and MK3/MK3.5 ACM's. Even a few that had been stored in humid conditions for an extensive period.

100c how will that help... solder on electronics usually melts about 190 to 230 C?    reflowed a laptop chip set with a blow torch once….. worked corectly for 6 months afterwards

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The procedure I describe is for cleaning the circuit board. Not for resoldering.

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On 11/26/2020 at 6:48 AM, JW1982 said:

Based on the pictures it is definitely worth a try to clean the circuit board of the ACM.

The part that is contaminated is the amplifier IC. The amplifier IC has an integrated protection circuit. It will simply disable the speaker output when a short circuit (or low resistance) between the IC pins is detected.
 

The circuit board can be cleaned by performing the following steps:

* Submerse the circuit board in warm water with a mild, non aggressive cleaning agent for approximately 15 minutes.
* Gently clean the circuit board using a soft brush.
* Rinse the circuit board with clean water.
* Pre-heat an oven to 100 degrees Celsius.
* Put the circuit board in the oven for approximately 30 Minutes. All components on the circuit board can easily withstand a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.
* Let the circuit board cool down.
* Assemble and test the ACM.


In the past I successfully repaired many Focus MK2/MK2.5 and MK3/MK3.5 ACM's. Even a few that had been stored in humid conditions for an extensive period.

 

HI JW, wow this is a great post. Thank you for the great guide. I followed these instructions and unfortunately the component still doesn't work. Upon further inspection as its cleaned now, one of the metal legs/pins from the amplifier IC has pretty much dissolved away to nothing and it is missing. I assume this was the coke and the acidic nature of the liquid sitting over this part of the IC has corroded and dissolved the solder and the whole leg itself. 

Is this amplifier IC available on its own anywhere if you happen to know? I would be willing to give it a go otherwise I think I am limited to buying a unit from eBay as per the part numbers you kindly provided. There are only 3 units or so, on eBay which are compatible.

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On 11/26/2020 at 1:46 PM, TomsFocus said:

Blimey, looks like you've had fun there! :biggrin:  

1. There isn't a service reminder on these so nothing to reset.  You just have to remember when it's due...

2. Looks like a tidy job, nice one!

3. Yeah, those caps have always been a pain when people use air tools on them.  I got some genuine new ones (had a source as a Ford tech lol) and they lasted 3 years without a single one coming loose as I only ever used hand tools on wheel nuts and don't let a garage near them lol.  I'm not sure either of those nuts linked are correct, the Bimecc one looks like a 'Global' nut which was used from 2012 onwards and may not be compatible with your wheels.   And the Febi one looks like shocking quality tbh.  These are the OE type Febi ones that people usually buy - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Wheel-Nut-Fits-Ford-C-Max-Fiesta-Focus-Kuga-Mondeo-Transit-Febi-46674/173796558399

4. Hmm, I can't see that as a separate part in the parts catalogue.  I reckon any local breakers yard will give you one for free though!  Or a couple of quid to get one posted.

Hi Tom, Yes is was great fun¬†ūüė©

1) Thank you, nice to know.

2) Thank you again! I thought I would do the best job I can to ensure it lasts, as I know it will fail again at some point.

3) It seems the previous owner/s have let the tyre places and garages go crazy with the air tools for sure- more than half the nuts have the caps slightly deforming or loose. The front passenger wheel tyre was changed recently I can tell and the nuts were extremely over tightened and seized on- I presume an air tool was used. I got all the normal nuts off with great difficulty as the caps were deformed and spinning but had to destroy the locking nut to get it off. These places which don't torque the nuts after removing are a pain.

Ah lucky you with the Ford contact lol.

Im finding it so difficult to find the correct wheel nuts as they all look very similar to me and I don't trust all sellers and their fitment lists. I wouldn't want to fit anything incorrect especially to the wheels. 

I would like to, if anyone can recommend or advise, to use a set of one piece solid nuts so there are no caps on them, eliminating this issue with the caps. Being aftermarket I guess quality would be an issue and hard to judge unless other members have any experience with a particular brand or set. Can anyone advise or recommend? 

If not, I will go for the OE style as per your link. Is that the best price they go for or is that just a quick searched link for example purposes?

 

Thank you again guys. 

 

EDIT: found the same ones at £2.25 a wheel nut, it says they will fit: 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-New-Genuine-Febi-Bilstein-Wheel-Nut-29463-Top-German-Quality/402266032221?epid=1011043285&hash=item5da8ec885d:g:uGEAAOSwhLZcnf6M

 

Also found some solid ones: 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-x-Chrome-Solid-Ford-Wheel-Nuts-fits-Ford-Focus-ST170-OEM-Genuine-Alloys/124422199165?hash=item1cf824177d:g:7kEAAOSwePdfoXJy

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That was just a quick eBay search, there are cheaper ones about.  Should be correct as long as you use the Febi part number there.

Wheel nuts are another of @JW1982 area of expertise.  If there are any decent solid aftermarkets, I'm sure he'll know of them!

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Thanks Tom. Hopefully he can chime in and give me some more advice- as if he hasn't done enough already¬†ūüĎćūüŹĹ

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It is very important to select the correct type of wheel nuts.

A few years ago Ford decided to standardize the (technical) design of the wheels and wheel nuts to a global Ford standard. In technical documentation these new type of wheels and wheel nuts are called Global wheels and Global wheel nuts. Nowadays the Global wheels and wheel nuts are used on most different Ford models around the word. 

Early Focus MK3 models (produced before 11-05-2012) did have the new type global Wheels combined with the old design 1-piece (solid) wheel nuts. However this combination does not fit to most other Ford models.


Original Ford wheels can be identified by the size of the wheel nut holes:

XmOVJ6K.jpg

Old design Alloy wheel  VS  global wheel.

 

The original wheel nuts can be identified by the following pictures:

Gg6o4yc.jpg

Old design wheel nuts:

Left = Wheel nut for steel wheel.
Mid = Wheel nut for alloy wheel
Right = Locking wheel nut for alloy wheel.

 

Wa6GJ1G.jpg

Global wheel nuts:

Left = Global wheel nut for steel wheel.
Mid = Global wheel nut for alloy wheel
Right = Global locking wheel nut for alloy wheel.

 

On a Focus MK3 with original (global) wheels both of these wheel nut designs can be used. It is however very important not to mix the different wheel nut designs and use the correct tightening torque.

 

IMPORTANT!

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IMPORTANT!

Original old 2-piece design wheel nuts as shown on the picture above can not be used on global wheels. Insufficient contact between the wheel nut and the global wheel will cause the wheel nuts to come loose!

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