Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Bleeding master cylinder


Arkhangelsk1989
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello I have a 2007 mk6 fiesta zetec s. I did a rear brake disc conversion on my car and accidently snapped a brake pipe while removing the union and this caused the reservoir to run empty. 

Ever since then the peddle has a slight soft spot before the brakes engage and it has been bled properly but can't seem to get this soft spot out of the peddle. 

Can you bleed Master cylinders seperately or does it bleed when you do the brakes using a pressure bleeder?

Cheers for any help

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Try pressure or vacuum bleeding. 
 

Next time, hold the brake pedal down with a piece of wood or something of that nature before you crack open anything. You’ll get a slight release of fluid and nothing more when you open a fitting. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, stef123 said:

Try pressure or vacuum bleeding. 
 

Next time, hold the brake pedal down with a piece of wood or something of that nature before you crack open anything. You’ll get a slight release of fluid and nothing more when you open a fitting. 

I had a garage do the bleed using one of them sealey hand pumps and they said all 4 calipers had no air or anything. 

Does a master cylinder need bleeding seperately or does a pressure bleeder clear all of the system? 

Cheers for the reply 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have you made sure that the ABS has been completley bled as air can get trapped in the ABS unit

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Neb_engineer said:

have you made sure that the ABS has been completley bled as air can get trapped in the ABS unit

I haven't mate, just got it bleed at a garage with one of them pump pressure bleeder that's all. The brakes work well it's just there is a small amount of travel before the brakes begin too bite. Never had any trouble stopping, just wondering if this is normal or not. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Just on the off chance that you have air trapped in the ABS (which can't be bled out with the ordinary style of bleeding) you should plug in a OBD interface and open all the abs valves through the software and then try bleed it

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Neb_engineer said:

Just on the off chance that you have air trapped in the ABS (which can't be bled out with the ordinary style of bleeding) you should plug in a OBD interface and open all the abs valves through the software and then try bleed it

Didn't realise that had too be done separately. Can you do that with any obd reader or is it a Ford garage only job? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have an OBD to USB interface and forscan you should be able to do it yourself 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Arkhangelsk1989 said:

Hello I have a 2007 mk6 fiesta zetec s. I did a rear brake disc conversion on my car and accidently snapped a brake pipe while removing the union and this caused the reservoir to run empty. 

Ever since then the peddle has a slight soft spot before the brakes engage and it has been bled properly but can't seem to get this soft spot out of the peddle. 

Can you bleed Master cylinders seperately or does it bleed when you do the brakes using a pressure bleeder?

Cheers for any help

There are two ways you can bleed brakes . One way where you can connect a pressure bleed to the master cylinder , it put pressure throughout the system and delivers fluid into the master cylinder as you realise each bleed nipple separately . 
you usually start the furthest away from the master cylinder and progressively closer to the master cylinder in turn. When the system has run dry it can take some time to get some of the air lock out . The second method is bleeding by pumping the brake pedal as each bleed nipple is released to bleed , the same as above only making sure you keep the master cylinder topped up with fluid. It’s better if there are two people when doing it the second way . One person too pump the pedal and keep a eye on the reservoir, while the other person releases the bleed nipple. The art to each of these methods is having a clear pipe on the bleed nipple , so you can see the air bubbles coming out , also making sure the air bubbles don’t  get sucked back up on the upward stroke of the brake pedal . If the pedal still feels soft, if you have a proper brake pipe clamp , you could clamp each individual flexy brake pipe to determine where the air might be trapped 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help everyone. I will get the garage to have another go at bleeding the brakes and see how It goes from there. The brakes seem too work alright it's just the pedal travel but it passed the mot recently with no problem and have driven thousands of miles with no problems braking. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Arkhangelsk1989 said:

Thanks for the help everyone. I will get the garage to have another go at bleeding the brakes and see how It goes from there. The brakes seem too work alright it's just the pedal travel but it passed the mot recently with no problem and have driven thousands of miles with no problems braking. 

One other thing that could have an effect of a soft brake pedal, if you have rear drum brakes . It could be the rear brakes are out of adjustment. If you pull your handbrake on and the pedal improves , its a good sign the rear brakes need to be looked at or adjusted 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Robhonda said:

One other thing that could have an effect of a soft brake pedal, if you have rear drum brakes . It could be the rear brakes are out of adjustment. If you pull your handbrake on and the pedal improves , its a good sign the rear brakes need to be looked at or adjusted 

Cheers for the reply. I converted the drums too st150 discs brakes and calipers on the rear so I think they should be adjusted alright. I will see how I get on with bleeding it but at the end of the day, the brakes are working fine and I haven't had any problems stopping "touch wood". 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, FiestaForever said:

Just out of interest, did you do the conversion yourself, or did the garage do the job?

If you did it yourself, how long did it take you?

I did the conversion myself mate. It took me around a days work in total minus the snapped brake pipe because I am heavy handed 😂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Arkhangelsk1989 said:

Cheers for the reply. I converted the drums too st150 discs brakes and calipers on the rear so I think they should be adjusted alright. I will see how I get on with bleeding it but at the end of the day, the brakes are working fine and I haven't had any problems stopping "touch wood". 

👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, FiestaForever said:

Sounds like it might take me two days or more then as my hands are lead. Was gonna do front and rear upgrade to 278mm discs.

Haha, trust me I was raging at some points because everything seemed to be made of chocolate. 

Tbh I wouldn't say it has made any difference in braking other than looking better than drums. I suppose upgrading the fronts would benefit more because they do most of the braking. I'm still running standard size on the front but I'm looking too get some better pads as the pagid ones aren't brilliant and my pedal is a tad spongy 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


1 minute ago, FiestaForever said:

I have been looking at some kits for big brakes, they look quite good but the price tag does not.

I noticed that the rear st150 brakes are 253mm and front are 278mm.

The kit I found was just for the front wheels, and it doesn’t make sense in buying an upgrade kit with nice callipers when the rear brakes will be smaller with different/standard callipers.

 

https://www.burtonpower.com/hispec-4-pot-road-brake-kit-ford-escort-fiesta-ka-278x24mm-hisk23.html

Tbh if I was you I would just upgrade the fronts and put some good discs and pads on. You could do the rear conversion and put some good brakes on aswell but it costs a lot of money too do

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, FiestaForever said:

How much dis it cost you to do the back end brake conversion?

I got a rear beam for £150 but both wheel bearing were bad so that was another £150, discs, pads and brake hoses were about £100,new handbrake cable was about £30 and a few other things but all together I would say it cost me around £500 but would have been cheaper if things didn't go wrong for me 😂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, FiestaForever said:

£500 is not a stroll in the park but doable if a person has employment. I saw someone selling just the hubs and brakes as kit without the axle itself, that was more expensive than what you were saying at £150. Might consider doing this when the remaps have been sorted and possibly when cams have been done too.

 

If you need any help then zain on this forum did a step by step on how too do it. He helped me out a lot. 

I got the axle for a really good price but they probably new that the bearings were knackered and everything so thats why it was cheap. Tbh just collect the parts up gradually so you get decent stuff rather than old worn rubbish like I did. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, FiestaForever said:

£500 is not a stroll in the park

It is now if the park's more than 2 miles away... :rolleyes: 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know this Is completely out of context but since there are people following this forum I just need a bit of advice. 

Does my car sound like it's misfiring? There are no codes or anything and it's driving fine with no problem. 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, FiestaForever said:

Actually I don't think that is a misfire but rather an exhaust leak or loose exhaust.

Yeah, I think my backbox hasn't sealed on the joint. I used exhaust paste but it's a load of rubbis. I might buy some exhaust wrap and see if that does it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, quick update. I have solved the problem. 

Took it too ford and they powerbled the system on an IDS machine and found loads of air trapped in the ABS Pump. This has solved the problem and now my pedal feels much better and the brakes come on earlier than before. 

Cheers for all of the help and suggestions 👍🏻

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Arkhangelsk1989 said:

Hello, quick update. I have solved the problem. 

Took it too ford and they powerbled the system on an IDS machine and found loads of air trapped in the ABS Pump. This has solved the problem and now my pedal feels much better and the brakes come on earlier than before. 

Cheers for all of the help and suggestions 👍🏻

👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, FiestaForever said:

Just out of interest how much did they charge for this service buddy?

I'm going too cry saying this 😭 £150. Tbh they did a full check of all the braking system and ran a brake roller test so it's peace of mind that my brakes will actually work when I need them the most. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At the end of the day mine and everyone else's safety is worth more than £150 so I'm happy it's all sorted 👍🏻

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest Deals

Ford UK Shop for genuine Ford parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via the club

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share






×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership