Any help on this issue would be very gratefully received. My 61 plate Fusion 1.4 is having problems wiht the door shut sensor. The front passenger and rear driver side doors keep indicating that they are not shut although they are, Sticking microswitch...??

Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know the location of the sensor?

I am reluctant to rip the door panel off without some sort of clue...!!

Any and all help appreciated,

Hi Rob,

51 minutes ago, Rob54 said:

Has anyone had this problem?

lots of people on here with the same problem.

52 minutes ago, Rob54 said:

Does anyone know the location of the sensor?

The little microswitch is located deep inside the actual door lock. It can be replaced but, once you open up the lock it can explode with springs and bits popping out.

You can often pick up secondhand locks on eBay or from scrap yards for about £20

Is it possible to get a WD40/Switch cleaner nozzle in without dismantling it.......?

Hi Robert, the door lock is a sealed unit, and the microswitch inside of that is also a sealed item so I doubt if WD40, or switch contact cleaner would be able to get in.

4 hours ago, Rob54 said:

Any help on this issue would be very gratefully received. My 61 plate Fusion 1.4 is having problems wiht the door shut sensor. The front passenger and rear driver side doors keep indicating that they are not shut although they are, Sticking microswitch...??

Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know the location of the sensor?

 

Yes, identical problem on our '60 plate Titanium.  I have replaced front passenger doorlock complete, as it will stop the car locking, and it is a pain to do. Driver's side rear I am currently ignoring, as it is just an indication, - the interior light stays on until I switch it off !  New price from Ford is almost prohibitive.

When taking off the inner door panel, it may give you more wiggle room if you remove the loudspeaker.

hi i have had this problem with my 2008 model replaced the rear drivers side door lock front passenger lock and now the boot door will only unlock if you put the key in 

will not unlock on the fob or the button on the dash can anybody help it has cost a lot of pound noted on the two locks this year.

many thanks.

 

No obvious connection there.

Only suggestion here is to disconnect battery, then disconnect the two doors for which you have changed the door locks, reconnect battery and see if there is any change ?  If there is, then reconnect one by one and check again.

The hatch solenoids do fail, I have changed one on our 2007 Fiesta, but you may be able to acces the cabling in the hatch, and see if the solenoid is activated when you push tyhe dash button or plip.

hi Paulkp got a new actuator off ebay fittrd it today but the dash keeps saying boot unlocked any ideas 

Hello David, I guess you have upset the Canbus system.

Get a laptop with FORScan on it and read the DTC to find out what the car thinks is wrong.

unofix thanks for the reply but i an not very good at fixing cars just got fed up off giving my money to the garage had to have two locks changed 

not cheap so the boot actuator did not look hard to do which it is not but it left me with message.

I'm a bit Confused.

1. You changed door locks - then boot lock refuses to open except by turning key.
2. You change boot solenoid, and boot continually says "Open"

Does the boot lock now release remotely, or is that still a problem ?

Is the interior light on ?

Solenoid and "Boot Open" both rely on the same earth, which is (I think) behind the interior trim, adjacent to the bottom of the LH rear light. And if the boot is "open", then the interior light should be on .....

I have had the same issue with my 2010 Ford Fusion uk model also it wouldn’t lock because of this I took the door card off then I was greeted by another inner door card witch I couldn’t remove unless I took the glass out of the door so instead I cut a hole in this door card by the lock big enough to fit my hand in and a hook tool to pull the connector off of the door latch when you have to plug if you test the ports together like I did I found that port 4 and 5 made the connection to say the doors was closed I then scotch lock connected those 2 wires together to make a permanent connection  I have now resolved my issues with the locks I had to do this on 3 of the 4 doors so if you can’t afford hundreds of pounds to have it fixed I have found this is a much cheaper and easier way to fix the issue weather it be temporary or permanent I got the scotch locks off of Amazon for around £7 for 65 of them and I had to buy a SDS multi cutting tool from tool station for £40 I hope this helps 

Also on two topics !

If the car will not lock, because of a faulty door sensor, I think the only way to lock the car is to disconnect the battery and then manually lock all the doors - Key will manually open boot and driver's door.

Immobilised and locked !

Should you bypass the door open sensors, you insurance company might not approve, and if you do all 4 - then the car will probably always self lock afterabout 30 secs, unless you also plip open the boot.

I have bypassed them on my front passenger door and both rear doors and I have no issues at all with the door sensors now and no issues with the door locks and I can’t see how the insurance company would have an issue with this when it’s not an aftermarket modification it’s a repair / temporary fix to be able to shut the doors without your interior light staying on and be able to actually make your car secure I would not tell someone else to do this to there own car unless I had done it to my own car and knew it worked and had no issues I have had my car like this for around 7 months with no issues at all