I'm 'still' a newbie on here, so permission granted to slap me up to forum spanner manners.

The car is a ford focus mk2 (preface lift) 2005 2L Automatic with 50k on the clock

The transmission fluid is brown, not seeing any red or cherry in it.

The gear shifting is a little thumpy at times depending if I don't give the car that couple of seconds before tapping the throttle to move off.

Is it possible to change the gearbox oil, should I do it?

Hi, it is possible, yes, and you should do it.

But please ensure you research fully:

1: How to drain and refill the fluid, what gearbox you have fitted etc (Youtube will have videos of how to drain/refill)

2: How much fluid you need - You can just simply measure what came out and replace though

3: THE CORRECT FLUID! Don't chance it, use the correct fluid

4: How to check the level once finished

 

Thanks DaveT70.

"The correct fluid". I was looking at the 'MANNOL 10L DEXRON III 3 Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF Ford Mercon V MB 236.1' the on eBay. Any thoughts?

Actually, where in the manual does it show the correct transmission fluid, I can't find it?

42 minutes ago, ride_comfort_is_my_object said:

Actually, where in the manual does it show the correct transmission fluid, I can't find it?

Exactly! It doesn't!

You need to research from model number of gearbox as Ford class this as "sealed for life" so don't recommend fluid

Try 4-Speed Automatic Transaxle - 4F27E

There you go:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_4F27E_transmission

Note:

 Ford cars used Mercon V (Ford part number: XT-5-QMC) until 2007 MY. After 2007 Ford made some hardware and calibration modifications so that from 2008 MY it is required to use Mercon LV oil (Ford part number: XT-10-QLVC). Later Ford authorized back servicing transmissions from 2000 to 2007 with Mercon LV.

 

Mazda includes a drain plug, while Ford does not. For the Ford vehicles without the drain plug, a Mazda transmission pan can be installed on a Ford 4F27E, and it will fit perfectly. Aftermarket transmission pans are also available.

Transmission dry fill capacity: 6.7 Liters / 7 Quarts.

So, it looks like you've got to either suck the fluid out through the level check hole or change the pan to Mazda spec that has a drain plug.

 

Great info. I guess I need to locate model number of gearbox. Where is that, is it stamped on it somewhere?

Thanks DaveT70. Read through your info esp wiki stuff.

So my motor most likely has the standard 4F27E automatic transmission.

It takes either the Ford Mercon V or Ford Mercon LV compatible fluid.

I'll definitely look into the Mazda aftermarket transmission pans that has a drain plug.

I put a vehicle of same spec, that was on sale on Autotrader, into ETIS and that is what came up.

I'm 99% certain that's your gearbox.

If you are removing the pan then you may as well install a new filter as that's where it is.

Remember to check the level, after fill, after you've been on a drive to get the transmission hot

Replace filter noted, thanks.  It will be a few weeks before I get around to this job.

Any thoughts on using a gasket or hi-temperature gasket sealent?

7 hours ago, ride_comfort_is_my_object said:

Replace filter noted, thanks.  It will be a few weeks before I get around to this job.

Any thoughts on using a gasket or hi-temperature gasket sealent?

If you're ordering a filter you may as well order the proper gasket

Need to pick your brain a little more. 

I'm just getting used to this motor and it being an automatic as I've not driven an older automatic.

The reason for changing the oil is two fold,

Firstly is that the car has done 50k with no transmission fluid change and the fluid does not have any red etc colour in it.

Secondly, I'm only now noticing slight shift sounds between first and second only. It seems to take a little long to change up to second gear and makes a light thump sound going down to first gear.

Is this normal for automatic bids of this make and age?

Is this normal for automatic transmission boxs of this make and age?

If the fluid is old you will get poor shift quality. 

Once you have changed the fluid you can reset the adaptive shift learning memory and start again.

Are you able to use Forscan?

While you have the pan off, it won't hurt to clean and flush the solenoids see video.

If you're still getting shift issues after the fluid change, you may need to get the solenoids tested and replace any dodgy ones.

 

 

"Are you able to use Forscan?"

I bought a obd cable and loaded the software on my laptop.

Picture is not of the motor, just a stock image.

Thanks again DaveT70

From all the info you have provided, I think I need to get some new fluid in the box and see what happens.

In that video clip at 9:50sec he is cleaning a shift solenoid. Is he just blowing compressed air through it to clean it? Pity it isn't a bit more detailed on what needs done to clean out a shift solenoid, well for beginners like me?

Will update once that is done.

Back again, just had an idea. Is it possible to vacuum out transmission fluid using one of these?

Has this been done, if not why not?

Had a spannerwave, is it because the plastic tube when pushed down the transmission dipstick tube is stopped by the gearbox and can not reach the bottom sump were the fluid is held?

On 10/19/2021 at 6:53 PM, ride_comfort_is_my_object said:

Thanks again DaveT70

From all the info you have provided, I think I need to get some new fluid in the box and see what happens.

In that video clip at 9:50sec he is cleaning a shift solenoid. Is he just blowing compressed air through it to clean it? Pity it isn't a bit more detailed on what needs done to clean out a shift solenoid, well for beginners like me?

Will update once that is done.

Some other videos on youtube show people just cleaning the solenoids with MAF cleaner to flush out any debris, better than nothing I suppose.

On 10/20/2021 at 2:15 AM, ride_comfort_is_my_object said:

Back again, just had an idea. Is it possible to vacuum out transmission fluid using one of these?

Has this been done, if not why not?

Yes, would save you the hassle of dropping the pan, but if you're going to change the filter you've got to drop the pan anyway.

But, with one of these, you don't need to source a new pan with a drain plug.

Thanks Dave, I'm going to give the vacuum fluid bleeder hooked up to the compressor a go and see what happens. Will report back when I receive it and get some spannertime.

I've just finished trying the fluid bleeder, long story short is a epic failure.

I had the car slightly higher at the front hopeing fluid would flow to the rear were the dipstick seems to drop into the pan.

Only managed to get 400ml approx out. It's started great, tube went down slightly further than the dipstick and pulled up fluid. 

Air bleeder failed to draw out enough transmission fluid.

 

Next thing to try is pulling the lower pipe of the transmission cooler rad to get a few liters out that way.

 

I'm trying this to learn if improving the fluid quality helps shifting. If it does not then I would then know that I have to pull the pan and either clean or replace the two shift solenoids.

 

Anybody see a flaw..?