Hi my focus throws loads of lights engine management, abs,handbrake ,battery & oil light. The car then ticks over for bit, nothing on accelerator. Then the lights go out,it'll then drive for while then repeats the whole process,after about 5 goes like this the engine management light stays on. Diagnostics say fuel pressure, changed fuel filter no change.

Any suggestions where to look next please?

Your car has what is known as "Tree Hugger" syndrome. Luckily its not often terminal as @StephenFord will confirm 🤣

The most probable cause of this problem is the solder joints on the back of the instrument cluster are starting to fail. Its caused by the poor quality "lead free" solder that was used. Take a look on ebay or google Instrument Cluster repairs. There are many companies that offer a repair service for about £70.

If that then does not fix the problem then you could well have water getting in to the BCM (body control module) which is part of the Fuse Panel located behind the glovebox. Before checking disconnect the negative lead from the battery. Then remove the multipin plugs and sockects from the BCM and check for signs of water and green fur like corrosion.

Ask if you need futher help.

I agree it’s most likely the soldering as said above. But on my brothers focus that did not fix it. It turned out to be some other problem with connectors/ wiring loom. Under the bonnet is the ecu, under the glovebox is the bcm(looks like a fuse box but there is much more to it inside the box) and the instrument cluster (speedo unit) . These three things speak to each other with a constant flow of computer data through two thin wires.  It is called the canbus. Any interruption to that flow of data due to bad connections and it gets confused. 

A good experienced solderer could do it. It’s electronics work not car mechanic type work. There are YouTube videos about it. The speedo unit is easy to remove from car but the dismantling of the unit is extensive. You need to remove the needles from the gauges in order to get to where the soldering needs doing. It’s quite fiddly. The soldering is on very small pins, it’s certainly not for people having their first attempt at soldering. But even if people can’t do the soldering they might be able to remove the circuit board and if they know anyone who does soldering for tv repairs or mobile phone repairs then it’s a five minute job for them on the bench once the soldering iron is warmed up. But if you ***** it up it’s a problem.  If you replace the unit with one from another car then you need to reprogram immobiliser to match your keys. So beware.

Thanks guys,so nothing to do with fuel pressure, filters  someone also thought alternator. Do you think I'd annoy the mechanic by suggesting this?

My blower fan only works 4, that's also located behind the glove box. I wonder if there's a problem there?

6 minutes ago, Jackie1970 said:

Do you think I'd annoy the mechanic by suggesting this?

Its not really a mechanics job. If you want someone to look at it, you need an Auto Electrician, or better still if you can find one an Auto electronics technician.

Ah ok he's going by diagnostics report which indicates fuel pressure issues 

 

56 minutes ago, Jackie1970 said:

My blower fan only works 4, that's also located behind the glove box. I wonder if there's a problem there?

If your Heater Blower only works on the fastest setting then it is almost certainly because the Resistor Pack has burned out and needs replacing. 

That is not uncommon and not too expensive.

Yeah I've got a resister on the way,just wondered because they are both behind glove box 

Hi guys so got the soldering done car, now the temperature gauge isn't working. Any ideas? 

The repair of the instrument cluster has failed. You need it checked and resoldered again.

Ah ok thanks. I'll book it back in.

Is the temp gauge the only thing that’s not working? To do the soldering the needles have to be removed from the gauges. I am wondering if maybe soldering worked but something else done wrong with the gauge. If it was mine and the temp gauge is the only problem I might be tempted to live with that, in case trying to go further forward goes backwards

Hi yeah I wondered that, I've been advised to have the needle checked, but I'm being told it may mean having it sent away to be looked at. I see £££££ signs 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283791021537?hash=item42134355e1:g:X3oAAOSwJRZaghsR

13 minutes ago, unofix said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283791021537?hash=item42134355e1:g:X3oAAOSwJRZaghsR

This one might be a problem if already soldered once...

They don't accept previously opened or damaged units --------- but then say --------- This will incur a service charge of £19.99

So I read that they may charge you an extra £19.99.

Maybe, or do they charge £19.99 for the time they spend discovering it has already been tampered with but send it back un repaired?  I guess someone should ask them.

The car has been parked for 2 weeks, it has no power what so ever, had open with the key rather than remotely, temperature gauge not working,I think the speedo is incorrect & the fuel gauge seems to be reading wrong. 

2 hours ago, Jackie1970 said:

temperature gauge not working,I think the speedo is incorrect & the fuel gauge seems to be reading wrong. 

..............and the battery is 100% flat !!

Charge the battery for a FULL 24 hours with a good smart charger and your car will return to normal.