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Mk1 galaxy starting issues


dsayer
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Hi, it’s been a while since I last posted my mk1 2.0 petrol has been very reliable up to now where I seem to have an intermittent starting problem. So far I have changed relay 30 which has not sorted the problem. The issue goes like this when it won’t start. key in to 2nd position at this point the fuel pump should prime and it doesn’t not even the relays click in. I have noticed the immobiliser light flashes very fast. So today I looked this up and found after a minute it will produce a code I’m waiting for the car to throw a wobbly so I can take a note. Any advice greatly appreciated 

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I loved the Mk1 Galaxy. I had an "R" reg and then a "51" which I kept for 10 years. Both were the petrol 2.3 and were very excellent.

Your problem sounds like low battery voltage. The rapid flashing immobiliser light is an indication that the PAT's system has failed to read the passive transponder chip in the key.

Assuming that your battery is fully charged and not on it's last legs, I would check the main battery negative lead and make sure the connection to the bodywork is solid, clean and free of rust.

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1 minute ago, unofix said:

I loved the Mk1 Galaxy. I had an "R" reg and then a "51" which I kept for 10 years. Both were the petrol 2.3 and were very excellent.

Your problem sounds like low battery voltage. The rapid flashing immobiliser light is an indication that the PAT's system has failed to read the passive transponder chip in the key.

Assuming that your battery is fully charged and not on it's last legs, I would check the main battery negative lead and make sure the connection to the bodywork is solid, clean and free of rust.

Thank you for your reply firstly I was a little concerned I wouldn’t get any help due to the cars age 👍🏻 Mine is also an r reg lol I will get onto the battery first thing in the morning. It’s funny you say about the ignition ring because today I was trying to check out the ignition switch thinking it might be that, and while I was having a poke about I took the ring off and tried to start the car and got the same symptoms. Like I said in the post I noticed the led flashing like mad then calmed down but I didn’t realise at the time this can give a code to the fault so I’m waiting for it to throw it’s toys out of the pram again so I can read it. But in the mean time I will check out the battery thanks for that. 

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If your up to the challenge, get yourself a laptop and install the software FORScan (its free). You will need a lead to conect to the OBD port which you can get from tunnelrat electronics (£17.95)

You will then be able to read the DTC's (if any have been stored) which may give a good indication to the problem.

Download FORScan from here:  https://forscan.org/download.html

Get the ELM327 lead from here:   https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

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1 minute ago, unofix said:

If your up to the challenge, get yourself a laptop and install the software FORScan (its free). You will need a lead to conect to the OBD port which you can get from tunnelrat electronics (£17.95)

You will then be able to read the DTC's (if any have been stored) which may give a good indication to the problem.

Download FORScan from here:  https://forscan.org/download.html

Get the ELM327 lead from here:   https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

Cheers for that I actually already have a elm327 lead but my laptop is garbage so I will need to look into that first. I read somewhere that I may also need the vw software as the mk1’s are vw with a ford badge and some of the modules need vcds to read 🤷🏻‍♂️

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You might be right about the VW thing. I had the 2.3 which was an all Ford engine, but of course still shared alot of the electrics with VW.

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Thanks for the link I’ve just clicked on it and they have an app for the iPhone so I’ve downloaded that I just need to find what adapter it needs which it’s not telling me grrr 

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Wow 🤩 thanks again. I’ve just found the info on the app and it shows an adapter on amazon which states is ok for forscan and also bimmerlink which is even better news because I also own a piece of crap bmw and I have the adapter and bimmerlink so my thoughts are if the amazon one works with both programs the one I already have should yay 😀 

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I might be worrying unnecessarily here, but I am wondering if forscan an tunnel rat code reader will work on a 1997 car, even ignoring the vw aspect. 1997 was before car makers were all forced to use a common standard of obd computer language. For Europe it was 2001 the common standard was enforced, of course some may have done it earlier. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics     See history section

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Well it won't be an OBDII port for sure 🤣

You maybe correct and FORScan or the VW  version won't work but it can't do any harm to give it a try.

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14 minutes ago, isetta said:

I might be worrying unnecessarily here, but I am wondering if forscan an tunnel rat code reader will work on a 1997 car, even ignoring the vw aspect. 1997 was before car makers were all forced to use a common standard of obd computer language. For Europe it was 2001 the common standard was enforced, of course some may have done it earlier. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics     See history section

I have in the past had a version of live data software hooked up to it when I couldn’t get it to pass the emissions test and I found the problem so fingers crossed when I try to get online with forscan it will work. Unfortunately that won’t be until later because the wife has the other car which has the plug in obd adapters in and she’s 5 hrs away 😩

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battery checked and it’s sitting at 12.2v so looks good there. I have noticed the clamps are loose on the battery post no majorly but they move if wobbled so I’m going to have a look for some sleeves to go over the battery terminals. It may not be my fault but I’m guessing won’t help and needs sorting 

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