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Low power on pull after cleaning sump 1L ECOBOOST

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Hello guys, I come here to read about problems with the cars to diagnose my own car and a lot of the discussions are very helpful however I haven't managed to find any discussions about this particar problem... So let me tell you a bit about how it all started.

 

It was a couple weeks ago that my car was showing a red oil warning. After reading on these forums I found out that the culprit was the wet belt shedding fibres into the sump. My mechanic diagnosed it as the same and cleaned out the sump for me which made the light go off instantly. The car at this point had less noise from the engine and seemed to run okay... I saw that it was a little bit sluggish but I thought I had damaged the turbo while driving it with low oil and damaging the turbo (it made a whistling noise which I thought was the turbo going out). Now fast-forward to a few days ago, the car went into limp mode while driving it and a light came on saying "engine malfunction service now" at this point I turned the car off and on and saw the light had gone and the car was driving as normal.

The next day I noticed it wasn't fulling off very well, the revs were going up but very slowly, now at this point I thought okay the turbo definitely is gone now (the whistling noise was gone) it was still driving fine, it just took a while for the revs to build up, specially in first gear.... I noticed that if I take the revs on first gear up to 3.5k then the car weirdly enough runs as normal after that. It just needs that initially push...before this rev build up is done on first gear the car has a mussfled noise as if its spitting the revs don't go up at all and I have to put my food down all the way for more than a few seconds before it reaches 3.5k!  But aftet that it runs as smooth as it used to before the oil light came on... Now today the car had a Lot of trouble reaching this rev... It does about 5-10mph MAX and the revs do not build up. I managed to find a fix I put the car on neutral, hit the gas (revs fine on neutral) and catch the revs higher when I put it on first... This way I manage to hit the 3.5k revs to bypass this limp mode kind of thing and the car runs okay-ish it can reach speeds of 80mph or more but after 60mph it's sluggish to get to that speed unless it's on a downward slope... If its uphill it will usually go down in speed and Hardly goes any faster unless a lower gear is engaged.

 

I have it booked in for the mechanic but they are not able to check it until Wednesday since they're fully booked.

 

Please  advise on what the problem might be to see if I can fix it myself. 

 

Thank you everyone



Any fault codes? Everyone should have a fault code reader. About 20 quid from tunnel rat electronics. Forscan software for windows laptop is free. It is about 6 quid for Apple/android app.  I know a fault code reader does not always 100% diagnose the exact fault but it can give a clue with regard to where to start looking.

So when the oil warning light was on you only drove round for a couple of days. Then your mechanic unblocked the filter in the sump which had bits of the wet belt in it. You haven't replaced the wet belts but now your engine is not running very well.

I'm just amazed that your engine is still working. 

It's a bit of a waste of time posting all this without the fault code...

  • Author
2 hours ago, isetta said:

Any fault codes? Everyone should have a fault code reader.

I will have to buy one because the mechanics around here are all very busy and they tell me there is a 1-2 week waiting time before they can see the car. 

1 hour ago, unofix said:

So when the oil warning light was on you only drove round for a couple of days. Then your mechanic unblocked the filter in the sump which had bits of the wet belt in it. You haven't replaced the wet belts but now your engine is not running very well.

I'm just amazed that your engine is still working. 

When the oil light came on I took the car to the mechanic straight after. I was going to work when it came on and I drove it back home and the next day it was at the mechanics, he checked to see if the engine was damaged but it wasn't he said it was fine. He had done this job before for other cars and said they lasted 6+ months until the wetbelt had to be replaced...

  • Author

So, I went and bought a code reader to see if it gives me any fault codes. No codes were stored and it wasn't showing any faults when the car was idling...

 

I have the reader plugged into the car... I'm gonna drive it to work and look to see if it gives me any codes while driving.

2 hours ago, Rohamc said:

When the oil light came on I took the car to the mechanic straight after. I was going to work when it came on and I drove it back home and the next day it was at the mechanics, he checked to see if the engine was damaged but it wasn't he said it was fine. He had done this job before for other cars and said they lasted 6+ months until the wetbelt had to be replaced...

The engine and the turbo will be damaged. The wet belt will cost about £1100 to change if the engine lasts another 6 months (which is unlikely). Get shot of it.

9 minutes ago, pcaouolte said:

The engine and the turbo will be damaged. The wet belt will cost about £1100 to change if the engine lasts another 6 months (which is unlikely). Get shot of it.

Thank you @pcaouolte👍    I was wondering how long it was going to be before someone said the obvious. Running an Ecoboost engine even just a few miles with low oil pressure is almost guaranteed to wreck it. The engine is well on it's way to that great scrapheap in the sky.

I don’t know what code reader you bought. You say the dash told you there was a fault. I would have thought that would have caused a fault code to be registered in the ‘computer’. The fault codes usually remain in the memory for quite some time. So I am wondering if your code reader is good enough to read it properly.  The tunnel rat one I suggested have been used widely by people on this forum with good results which is why many people recommend them on this forum. But I know it’s inconvenient waiting for it to arrive in the post. I do agree with others that driving it even a very short distance with oil light on is usually damaging beyond repair. I agree it is surprising it worked after that

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