How difficult is this in real terms? I have a Haynes Manual, which are not always known to be accurate. That lists the job as 4/5 difficulty rating.

Looking under it I wondered if it was simply a case of jacking the car up, compressing the spring far enough and removing it. I can't see what else is holding it in there.

The manual says that a few bolts must be removed for access. The main problems I can foresee are the bolts being corroded into place as they probably haven't been removed since the car was built.

Thanks for any information.

 

The bolts are pretty likely to be siezed on the rear wishbone, requiring the use of heat to remove. This will wreck the rubber bushes meaning you have to replace the arm too.

There's a massive hole at the bottom of the wishbone so you can get some spring compressors on the inside of the spring. Regular ones won't fit on the outside.

Here is the magic..

 

9 hours ago, F0CUE said:

Here is the magic..

 

Informative vid, unfortunately the reality is usually different for most diy mechanics.

I prefer this ST lowering video for rear springs on Mk2...   (PS - Does contain swearing)

 

 

Thanks for the replies.

Am I right that the tracking adjustment bolt has to be cut off if it is seized into the bush?

Using an internal spring compressor, is it possible to compress the spring enough to remove it without having to unbolt or remove anything else?

If it comes to having to replace the arm, what is thought to be the best brand of aftermarket part to use? I see an ebay seller listing a pair of new ones priced at £45 for two. That seems too cheap.

Many internal and external spring compressors do not compress the spring enough to remove it on the the Focus MK2/MK2.5 and MK3/MK3.5.

When using the correct type of spring compressor there is no need to remove anything when replacing the rear springs of the Focus MK2/MK2.5 and MK3/MK3.5.

 

This is the type of spring compressor that is also prescribed by Ford. This type of spring compressor is a huge time (and money) saver. Especially on older vehicles where bolts are seized. Changing both rear springs is basically a 15 minutes job.

This type of spring compressor however is not particularly cheap (especially the hydraulic ones). 

11 hours ago, AntonovAN12 said:

Am I right that the tracking adjustment bolt has to be cut off if it is seized into the bush?

If it comes to having to replace the arm, what is thought to be the best brand of aftermarket part to use? I see an ebay seller listing a pair of new ones priced at £45 for two. That seems too cheap.

Wilco's advice above would save any messing with the arm.  But to answer the other questions - yes, the concentric bolt would need to be cut off if seized, and of course the tracking would need to be checked & probably adjusted after disturbing that.  Brands are a personal preference but I'd be avoiding anything that cheap personally!  TRW, Meyle or Lemforder should all be decent quality.

On 2/12/2022 at 9:34 AM, TomsFocus said:

I prefer this ST lowering video for rear springs on Mk2...   (PS - Does contain swearing)

 

 

Kind of deja vu 🤣

 

4 hours ago, JW1982 said:

This is the type of spring compressor that is also prescribed by Ford. This type of spring compressor is a huge time (and money) saver. Especially on older vehicles where bolts are seized. Changing both rear springs is basically a 15 minutes job.

This type of spring compressor however is not particularly cheap (especially the hydraulic ones). 

That looks like the way to go. Do Ford main dealers usually have one in their workshop?

Is there anyone on here who has one anywhere within a reasonable driving distance of London? If there is, would you be willing to fit two rear springs?

I have both new springs ready to fit.

Further to the above post, can it be done without removing the anti-roll bar drop link bolts?

I bought a replacement set thinking that it would be much easier to cut straight through the old ones with an angle grinder.

Thanks for the advice, the spring is now replaced. It had a few inches broken off at the very end in the lower arm cup. That was the only issue found at the MOT. The broken end was well rusted so it looks like it could have been like that for a while. 

I had my usual garage do it as I didn't have time to try and do it myself. They managed to get the spring out by undoing the lower shock absorber bolt and levering the spring out with a pry bar. This was without removing the top tracking adjustment bolt.

There was so little broken off that I don't see why the other spring couldn't have been removed and both cut to the same length. These springs have what are apparently called tangenital ends so can be shortened without altering the shape of the ends of the spring.

From what I have read, if the shortened spring is tight in its mounts with the wheel lifted off the ground, it is seen as able to pass an MOT. I doubt that removing that little of the spring would have made any noticeable difference, but I could be wrong.