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New owner - only one key - best advice to get spares?


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Hi All, I am a new Ford Fusion owner. My car is a 2006 1.4 petrol. I thought when buying from a small dealer that it came with two keys but I found out when picking it up that there was only one.

What is the best way to get a spare/spares? If I go to a Ford dealer, what is a spare key likely to cost me and is there a cheaper/better alternative to get a programmed, chipped and cut key at the same time?

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Don't suppose the advert for the car mentioned 2 keys at all?  If it did, and you have proof of that, you should push for the dealer to provide a second key.

Otherwise, you can ask locksmiths for a quote (either chains such as Timpsons or smaller mobile ones) as well as your local Ford.  Prices are all over the place at the moment so it's difficult to suggest how much Ford would charge now.

 

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You can get a key blade cut on eBay from a photo.  You can buy a key with immobiliser chip in it (check it is right type of chip) and program yourself using forscan with extended licence on a windows laptop using a good elm 327 device eg from tunnel rat electronics.   Places like Timpsons charge over a hundred quid I think.  And that is by cloning the key which some might say is not the right way to do it. 

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26 minutes ago, isetta said:

Places like Timpsons charge over a hundred quid I think.  And that is by cloning the key which some might say is not the right way to do it. 

The last time I got a quote from Timpsons it was £220, over a fifth of the car value LOL (Obviously, I politely declined) I know some don't like 'cloning', but to be honest, on a 17 year old car security isn't huge on the agenda, I'm just happy it starts!

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13 hours ago, isetta said:

You can get a key blade cut on eBay from a photo.  You can buy a key with immobiliser chip in it (check it is right type of chip) and program yourself using forscan with extended licence on a windows laptop using a good elm 327 device eg from tunnel rat electronics.   Places like Timpsons charge over a hundred quid I think.  And that is by cloning the key which some might say is not the right way to do it. 

Can you advise which is the right chip for the immobiliser - is it 4D63 or 4D60? Or does that relate to remote central locking and should I be looking for some other reference to check? If anyone can advise how I can check ahead of buying a spare and getting it cut, that would be great. Already, I'm so pleased to have joined the forum and thanks to everyone so far for your advice!

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20 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Don't suppose the advert for the car mentioned 2 keys at all?  If it did, and you have proof of that, you should push for the dealer to provide a second key.

Otherwise, you can ask locksmiths for a quote (either chains such as Timpsons or smaller mobile ones) as well as your local Ford.  Prices are all over the place at the moment so it's difficult to suggest how much Ford would charge now.

 

They didn't mention 2 keys; it was my honest mistake that I saw a pack of documents and two keys on the desk when I went for the test drive and made the assumption, but they weren't for the same car. The key we have works fine; but I want to be sure I have at least one spare ASAP as the car will be driven by my teen son, so that key could easily go wandering down the back of a sofa sometime when I'm not looking!

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Not sure if theyre also on here, find Richard aeron Beetwell or ollie jones on face book, both great guys who can advise and sell keys. Admin hope thats ok, richard helped with me installing my new cluster and has a website called Customod.

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I know this won't go down well with everyone, but I 'solved' the same issue by getting a new key blade cut from a photo (by keymoon.uk) and then I carefully removed the transponder chip from the original key and securely taped it to the ignition switch. I know it has compromised security, but I am fairly confident nobody is going to try and pinch it.

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2 minutes ago, plissken said:

I know this won't go down well with everyone, but I 'solved' the same issue by getting a new key blade cut from a photo (by keymoon.uk) and then I carefully removed the transponder from the original key and securely taped it to the ignition switch.

I just love that solution! Though with my obsessive neatness, I may have removed the steering cowl, and taped it to the inside, what a great idea! 😁

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7 hours ago, NuclearFusion said:

Can you advise which is the right chip for the immobiliser - is it 4D63 or 4D60?

That is indeed the chip for the immobiliser. You have as they say a 50/50 chance. Possibly the 4D63 for your model but can't be sure.

If you get the key cut and turn the ignition on you will get one of two situations happen. The red PAT's light will flash the code "key not detected" which means you have the wrong transponder chip. Or the light will flash the code "key not recognised" which means you do have the correct chip and the key just needs to be programed in. You can actually buy just the transponder chip on eBay so if you have the wrong one you could swap it.

Not an ideal answer to your key problem.

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4 minutes ago, unofix said:

That is indeed the chip for the immobiliser. You have as they say a 50/50 chance. Possibly the 4D63 for your model but can't be sure.

If you get the key cut and turn the ignition on you will get one of two situations happen. The red PAT's light will flash the code "key not detected" which means you have the wrong transponder chip. Or the light will flash the code "key not recognised" which means you do have the correct chip and the key just needs to be programed in. You can actually buy just the transponder chip on eBay so if you have the wrong one you could swap it.

Not an ideal answer to your key problem.

No, actually that is a great answer and really helpful. I wasn’t aware the PAT light would differentiate so that can tell me either way and I am not in a huge hurry so can wait a few days if a chip is needed. The original is glued in and likely does not carry a reference on it.

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My next query is, why are the internals of the new key remotes so much simpler than the original Ford keys? Do they still work the same? See the pictures - I compared the internals of my original key (first image) to the pics of the available replacement remotes (second image)on popular online sales sites. 

106BF3D0-6527-47C8-AFA6-FE5A8D703D91.thumb.jpeg.5e29b212eb007e35c1c5503119a2c4ca.jpeg
 

CCE0AEE3-B119-46E3-BDFA-A576A2370D41.thumb.jpeg.dd26e3046398d810196ea8b20075b7a5.jpeg

And the reverse side of the PCB.

949E0C3C-3F0F-433A-A0F1-57F8248C0122.thumb.jpeg.22c6b92b7796431675178a7b046f4029.jpeg

3D99EF99-7948-4631-A32E-3F747EB562D9.thumb.jpeg.bd4c8ec5ab7fb83bc6833f173a5b4bb9.jpeg

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36 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

I'm guessing just the progress of technology?

I’m hoping that is the case. I just wondered whether someone might spot that some obvious functions would be missing or the key was the wrong spec, but maybe that single small chip does it all now!

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The new circuit board uses a technology called 'Thick Film'

Effectively the circuit of individual components are actually etched directly it to the substrate of the circuit board. This speeds up production, reduces cost, and generally makes the product more reliable as there are no individual solder joints. The process is very good for products that would never be repaired if they failed.

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5 minutes ago, unofix said:

The new circuit board uses a technology called 'Thick Film'

Effectively the circuit of individual components are actually etched directly it to the substrate of the circuit board. This speeds up production, reduces cost, and generally makes the product more reliable as there are no individual solder joints. The process is very good for products that would never be repaired if they failed.

and avoids the need for lead free solder hahahahahahahahahahahaha

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1 hour ago, Jimpster said:

if you get a full replacement key with the correct transponder make sure the buttons are tha same, open/ lock/ boot lid etc

If you need someone with forscan i'm only in blackburn.

Much appreciated - thanks for the offer.

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Just thought I would update you on the outcome of my query.

Thanks to everyone’s great advice, I picked up a ELM USB switch connector and FORScan with a 2-year extended FORScan licence, along with a blank key with a remote body and also separately bought two key barrels from another provider offering cutting from photos included in the order (as I didn’t want to risk surrendering my only key for the car). Key cutting cost £10 per blank with free delivery.

I downloaded FORScan onto my windows laptop and activated my extended licence; downloaded and installed the ELM driver from Tunnelrat’s site (make sure you read the installation instructions properly before you install the driver to your PC); then undertook the programming procedure.

This all went well, with the new key chip now coded to the immobiliser. Indeed, the chip is 4D63.

The two barrels had been expertly cut and arrived 48 hours after ordering, which was excellent service.

Sadly, the remote sent will not program. I swapped the CR2032 battery in case that was the issue, but to no avail. It only cost £8 so they can replace it (and I will hang on to the immobiliser chip).

So, I now have my original key, a spare that starts the car and with a barrel that opens the doors and tailgate, and a spare barrel too.

Plus, the key cutter advised me of the key code for my records.

A great result. Thanks to all members who offered me help to get this sorted.

 

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Excellent, you can get dodgy transponders now and again. Least its being sorted and happy that your happy and have learnt a bit. That reminds me i must take my spare set out of the dash storage pod haha

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1 hour ago, NuclearFusion said:

So, I now have my original key, a spare that starts the car and with a barrel that opens the doors and tailgate, and a spare barrel too.

Very well done. A good result, and I'm sure you will soon also have a working keyfob

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3 hours ago, NuclearFusion said:

Just thought I would update you on the outcome of my query.

Thanks to everyone’s great advice, I picked up a ELM USB switch connector and FORScan with a 2-year extended FORScan licence, along with a blank key with a remote body and also separately bought two key barrels from another provider offering cutting from photos included in the order (as I didn’t want to risk surrendering my only key for the car). Key cutting cost £10 per blank with free delivery.

I downloaded FORScan onto my windows laptop and activated my extended licence; downloaded and installed the ELM driver from Tunnelrat’s site (make sure you read the installation instructions properly before you install the driver to your PC); then undertook the programming procedure.

This all went well, with the new key chip now coded to the immobiliser. Indeed, the chip is 4D63.

The two barrels had been expertly cut and arrived 48 hours after ordering, which was excellent service.

Sadly, the remote sent will not program. I swapped the CR2032 battery in case that was the issue, but to no avail. It only cost £8 so they can replace it (and I will hang on to the immobiliser chip).

So, I now have my original key, a spare that starts the car and with a barrel that opens the doors and tailgate, and a spare barrel too.

Plus, the key cutter advised me of the key code for my records.

A great result. Thanks to all members who offered me help to get this sorted.

 

Just remember anyone else if you have error issues download the runtime file as per James Simpsons excellent tutorial google it up.

Just a quickie while im here, does the door ajar chime only work when the engine is running, and the alleged reverse chime isnt a chime its a nuclear attack warning soon turned that off LOL

 

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