Hi

2014 mk8 transit 350 rwd 

The big white elephant has taken a hissy fit again. Problem. Started van with no issue or warnings lights. Went to pull out driveway and no power at all. Like it has no turbo. Would eventually gain speed on flats but on hills was down to 1st gear. Turned around back to house. In neutral you can rev it hard but it belches out black smoke. Otherwise the engine will start and idle happily. The van does have a break issue but I’m trying to figure out the codes and if their related. Plugged in Forscan and pulled these codes. At this point the EML came on and has been on since. Still starts fine. Both battery’s hold 12.6v switched of and 13.65v running. There is a problem with the smart charge. What I’ve done. Got access to turbo it’s free spinning with a tiny amount of float, turbo, oil feed pipes and actuator all replaced at some point. It’s had the egr out befor but I’ve not got to stripping it out yet. The van has a dpf and egr delete. I believe the egr is a software only delete. Codes are. 
U0001 high speed can bus communication error.

U0120 starter/ generator battery warning illuminated after a short drive.

C0021 brake booster performance.

U0422 invalid data from body control module.

C004A brake pad lining wear indicator. 

I have found a lot of water Ingres esp the turbo actuator plug and around ecu under the bonnet.

any tips or help would be greatly appreciated. Broken ankle so got 5weeks to fix it. 
cheers Scott
 

 

Check for water ingress in all the listed modules and also check functionality of the EGR valve

Hi 

Thanks for the reply. With regards to the egr although it’s software deleted I’m led to believe it actually still functions to a certain extent. Up until the failure when you switched off the engine you did indeed hear the hacking saw noise (egr self cleaning?). That noise the now is extremely faint if at all. If I fully remove the ecu will I loose the remap?. I just looked it’s swimming down there. Why put a drain point right onto it Ford. Mk6 is watching licking its lips at a potential comeback lol lol. Update when I do above advice. Thanks again.

Hi

wee update. So I stripped all the pipe work off the turbo none blocked. The one that sits on the subframe had indeed been rubbing but not holed. I’ll replace as it might collapse under boost. Intercooler had some oil in it so I cleaned out along with sensors. Not managed to get egr out yet due to weather but plugged forscn back in and done an egr/vtt test which did not complete. I’ve taken every loom plug out dried and cleaned as required. There is no egr self cleaning noise now?. The EML is weird as in why it was initially not on but is now after forscan. Until I get the egr out I want to check this brake booster performance code. Could that throw the EML on?. I appreciate any help as I’m burning money keeping the business running in the background whilst my ankle heals and local garages around here have actually broke the van several times so I’d rather do it myself if possible. I’ll try anything with advice as my knowledge is old landrovers not sensor run modern stuff lol 😂.

Hi

So put the van back together. Egr is impossible to access so used forscan. Reset egr and turbo values. EML went out and it seems the brake booster performance error cleared along with the bms error. Started instantly and brake pedal felt ok. Egr was 20% on idle and never changed during driving. After 10 mins engine service now message along with squiggly car symbol. Brake pedal did start going hard again. I’m completely lost.  New error p0299 turbo underboost

Wee update.

stripped most the engine parts again. Low boost so worked the egr area. Can’t figure out how to get it out it’s so tight to the bulkhead. But then I thought it’s ament to be deleted. So I left it. Did check Map and surrounding wiring. Back to turbo side. Stripped out alternator etc and headlight for access. Started to look at the actuator and realised the rod had snapped. Yet again unless you take the whole turbo off no chance to get it out. I think not. Split the turbo on the inlet side and it all comes off in one piece. ***** you Ford. So new actuator ordered. Oil feed pipes on factory position rubbing and near holed. ***** again Ford. Driveway mechanic always finds a way. I need to test the inter cooler though would make scenes on low boost as I live on a dirt track. Actually really enjoying this challenge but I’m really ***** with how bad these mk8 are put together. I’d go as far to say designed to fail. Im doing it old school which might not work on this van but it never failed me befor. Forscan did not pick up the actuator at all. But it’s the iPad version and Apple is generall regarded as ***** with anything to do with well evrything. Im no qualified mechanic so I’m just going on what I know and old school diagnostics. 

I was a tad angry previously sorry folks. New actuator arrived OE part. Not fitted yet as it’s raining. I’m just thinking through the breakdown. It was fine the night befor then bang all this happened. Can’t understand why it never originally picked up the underboost or actuator fault.Now I have had a noise from the van for a while basically sounds like chains under the van over rough ground?. Van had been loosing mpg and struggling a bit on power but no smoke etc. Could a blocked cat cause this. And I think I’m right in saying the sensor that should flag this up was programmed out the ecu when the dpf was done. No sensor befor the cat. I’m just wanting to fix evrything I can befor going back to work. I don’t have access to a ramp or even have axle stands so I’m limited to crawling around which is ok. 

So today’s adventure included. I can now walk around without my moonboot for my broken ankle/foot. Getting cabin fever hence the assault on the mk8. Went to fit new turbo actuator and had a problem. Linkage did not fit. Called Turbo vanes and they advised me to do a simple procedure and it worked. They have been very helpful always answering my questions. Got as far as about to put it all together then the oil feed pipe that came out fine and is new will not thread in. Got out the tap and die set for tomorrow in case. It started raining so took a picture of another design flaw especially on the rwd we’re water drains right over the turbo,manifold and would explain the seized actuator. Now I’m having a celebration beer as I see this as a win today actuator fitted easily but the control rod was an absolute bad word. 

Slowly getting there but still throwing up weird issues. Got new turbo actuator fitted. Done a relearn on actuator position. Seems to have fixed the under-boost issue. Now when i turn off the van the hamster with a saw is back living in the egr so i think thats a good sign eg self clean? but as stated its ament to be software deleted.. However i did notice not hearing the fuel pump on pre ignition so plugged in Forscan and its throwing up new codes to sort. Only thing i changed was removing what i though was an auxiliary system from when the van had beacons and lights etc but there is this one seems like a kill switch based below the seat on the multimeter its open till you press the button. and a switch on the dash that no longer lights up. any idea?. im now tackling the brake issue as thats just plain weird. if anything the white lump is getting alot of love now. ive wrapped the Ecu in a waterproof bag and went over every plug that can be hit with water, cleaned and greased. repaired shockingly bad wiring repairs. the oil sump looks badly corroded so got a new one delivered. think its possible to fit without dropping engine crossmemeber on a rwd?. fuel,air and oil filters. new discs,pads sensors and tone rings to fit. im now at the stage of no return im in too deep but saved a fortune just because of Forscan showing me were to look. 

 

Getting there kind off. Wiring is the issue mainly. Can start the van sometimes but then other times nothing. i figured out the extra buttons etc are a engine run key out system hence why i can pull the key and lock the doors with the engine still running. just got to find the wires controlling the fuel pump in tank . otherwise every module and sensor is ok on live feed with forscan. still loosing money and garages around here are 4-6 weeks waiting. so thos is what i done. mk6 full history as old as the mountains with genuine 68k miles and all the work done with long mot at a very good price. cheaper than a garage cheaper on parts and actually forgot how well they drive. and it was cheap. all the welding done. ill make its price back next week. the elephant is now going into dry storage and im planning on ripping it to bits and checking evything its got to be simple as when it runs its sweet but most times its just not engaging the pump so i cant even get it to a garage.