!Guide! Manual Pedal - Clutch Line Bleeding - MK7 2011

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-Ford Fiesta Zetec JA8  08-13

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Misc:
-The clutch line should ideally be flushed every 3 years. Clutch fluid is hygroscopic so it will absorb moisture over time.
-It makes sense to flush the clutch line after you have flushed the brake lines
-The clutch line should also be blead if it has been opened & exposed to air

-This method works well for bleeding the clutch after replacing the clutch master cylinder. Although the vacuum method would be even better.
-This method of bleeding the clutch after replacing the slave cylinder is likely going to prove difficult. You will most likely need a vacuum bleeder for that.

-Use DOT4 brake & clutch fluid
-200ml should be enough to simply bleed the clutch line
-400ml should be enough to flush the clutch line (Including the initial 200ml of fluid required for draining & refilling of the master cylinder reservoir)

-Store brake & clutch fluid with the lid on TIGHT & use it within 12 months
-Put the lid back on the brake & clutch fluid bottle as soon as you have finished topping up the reservoir

-Making a 1 man bleeder bottle:
-Cut a 60cm length of clear PVC hose that has an internal diameter of about 6mm
-Drill a hole in the lid of an old clear drink bottle. Make sure that the hose is a tight fit in the bottle lid.
-Fill the bleeder bottle with 100ml of brake & clutch fluid
-Feed the hose into the bottle so that the hose reaches the bottom

-You can also buy 1 man bleeder kits that have a 1 way valve. You don't need to first fill these bottles with 100ml of brake & clutch fluid. Although in case the valve fails, its good insurance to do so.

-With these 1 man setups you can skip the requirement of closing the slave cylinder valve whilst the clutch is still depressed. You can pump away and then close the valve & top up each time you have reached 10 smooth pedal pumps.

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(YOU CAN EASILY BLEED THE CLUTCH LINE WITHOUT PUTTING THE FRONT END ON AXLE STANDS - ALTHOUGH DOING SO WILL GIVE YOU BETTER ACCSSES)

-If you want to flush the clutch system then refer to the brake & clutch line flush/bleed guide as it is entailed in part of that process. There is no point in flushing only clutch fluid without also flushing the brake fluid.

-If you are bleeding air out of the clutch line then pour additional fluid into reservoir until it is sitting at the filler neck & REST the cap back on the reservoir (Pour slowly so that the new fluid does not mix with the old fluid)
-Remove the slave cylinder bleed valve dust cover

1 man bleeder method:
-Attach the 1 man bleed bottle/kit hose to the plastic slave cylinder bleed valve. Make sure that the hose is positioned so that it arches up and over the height level of the bleed valve. Now secure the hose on the valve with a cable tie. You can elevate the bottle by placing it on a bucket or something similar. You can elevate the 1 man kit by using cable ties or wire to suspend it in the air by hanging it from any suitable accessory in the engine bay.
-Open the plastic slave cylinder bleed valve with a long pair of grips 
-Smoothly depress the clutch pedal 10 times. Close the valve & top up the fluid reservoir.
(DON'T LET THE FLUID IN THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR DRAIN TO BELOW THE MININUM LEVEL MARKER)
-Keep repeating this process until either the air bubbles or the old fluid has been fully expelled from the line
-Once the line has been blead then make sure that the plastic bleed valve is closed tight
-Put the rubber dust cap back on

2 man bleeder method:
-Attach a hose (with an internal diameter of about 6mm) to the slave cylinder bleed valve. Feed this hose into a catch pan or bottle.
(You can do this without any hose or catch pan/bottle but it will make a mess)
-Tell your assistant to smoothly depress the clutch pedal and hold it in
(If you do not have an assistant then you can put a piece of wood against the pedal to simulate an assistant)
-Open the slave cylinder bleed valve with a pair of grips
-Once fluid/air stops flowing out then close the valve & tell your assistant to take their foot off the clutch pedal
-Repeat this up to 9 more times (Less if the air or old fluid has been fully expelled)
-Check the fluid reservoir & top it up with fluid
(DON'T LET THE FLUID IN THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR DRAIN TO BELOW THE MININUM LEVEL MARKER)
-Keep repeating this process until either the air bubbles or the old fluid has been fully expelled from the line
-Once the line has been blead then make sure that the plastic bleed valve is closed tight
-Put the rubber dust cap back on

-Make sure that the fluid reservoir cap is back on tight
-Check that the clutch pedal isn't spongey 
-Clean up any brake & clutch fluid residue with brake cleaner & a rag
-If the front end is on stands then put it back on the ground

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Useful sources:

How to do a Complete Brake Flush and Bleed

Let's Try Halfords Vizibleed one man brake and clutch bleeding kit - it works!!!

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