!Guide! Vacuum Pump - Clutch Line Bleed - MK7 2011

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-Ford Fiesta Zetec JA8  08-13

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Misc:
-The clutch line should ideally be flushed every 3 years. Clutch fluid is hygroscopic so it will absorb moisture over time.
-It makes sense to flush the clutch line after you have flushed the brake lines
-The clutch line should also be blead if it has been opened & exposed to air

-This method works really well for bleeding the clutch after replacing either the master or slave cylinder

-Use DOT4 brake & clutch fluid
-200ml should be enough to simply bleed the clutch line
-400ml should be enough to flush the clutch line (Including the initial 200ml of fluid required for draining & refilling of the master cylinder reservoir)

-Store brake & clutch fluid with the lid on TIGHT & use it within 12 months
-Put the lid back on the brake & clutch fluid bottle as soon as you have finished topping up the reservoir

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(YOU CAN EASILY BLEED THE CLUTCH LINE WITHOUT PUTTING THE FRONT END ON AXLE STANDS - ALTHOUGH DOING SO WILL GIVE YOU BETTER ACCSSES)

-If you want to flush the clutch system then refer to the brake & clutch line flush/bleed guide as it is entailed in part of that process. There is no point in flushing only clutch fluid without also flushing the brake fluid.

-If you are bleeding air out of the clutch line then pour additional fluid into reservoir until it is sitting at the filler neck. DON'T put the cap back on the reservoir! (Pour slowly so that the new fluid does not mix with the old fluid)
-Remove the slave cylinder bleed valve dust cover

-Make sure that the vacuum pump is set on the vacuum testing mode and not the pressure testing mode
-Attach the vacuum pump hose to the slave cylinder bleed valve (Position the hose so that it goes up and over the height level of the bleed screw, before the hose then slopes down and feeds into the container that is situated closer to the ground - Use a cable tie to keep it in position if it is possible)
-Build up the pressure in the vacuum pump until the gauge is reading 21 inHg (1.5bar) of pressure

-Open the slave cylinder bleed valve with a pair of grips (Keep adding pressure to the vacuum pump if it drops too much - Keep it above 10 inHg)
-Once all of the old fluid/air stops flowing out then close the valve 

(DON'T LET THE FLUID IN THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR DRAIN TO BELOW THE MININUM LEVEL MARKER)
(DO NOT LET THE FLUID CONTAINER ON THE VACCUM PUMP OVERFLOW AS IT WILL ALLOW FLUID TO BE PULLED INTO THE VACUUM PUMP ITSELF WHICH WILL DAMAGE IT)
(DO NOT LET THE FLUID CONTAINER TURN UPSIDE DOWN AS IT WILL ALLOW FLUID TO BE PULLED INTO THE VACUUM PUMP ITSELF WHICH WILL DAMAGE IT)

-Once the line has been blead then make sure that the plastic bleed valve is closed tight
-Put the rubber dust cap back on
-Check the fluid reservoir & top it up with fluid

-Make sure that the fluid reservoir cap is back on tight
-Check that the clutch pedal isn't spongey 

-Clean up any brake & clutch fluid residue with brake cleaner & a rag
-Clean the vacuum pump & it's container/lines
-If the front end is on stands then put it back on the ground

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Useful sources:

Tips for using the Pittsburgh automotive brake bleeder and vacuum pump kit

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