!Guide! Bleeding Master Cylinder Without Removal - MK7 2011

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-Ford Fiesta Zetec JA8  08-13

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Misc:
-The master cylinder should be bench bled if you are installing a new one
-The master cylinder should ideally be bench bled if you have accidentally ran it dry. However there are 2 options that could potentially bleed it without removing it from the car & bench bleeding it.
-The first option is the easiest: Using a scan tool to bleed the master cylinder via the ABS pump. You may need to run the program 1-3 times to fully bead it, but this should work.
-If the first option doesn't work then you can bleed the master cylinder by rerouting the brake lines. Remove the 2 brake unions that screw into the master cylinder ports. Screw in attachments and then feed PVC hose lines back into the reservoir from these ports. You then pump the brakes to draw the air up into the reservoir where it is expelled into the atmosphere.
-If these methods do not work then refer to the master cylinder bench bleeding guide

-Use DOT4 brake fluid
-Store brake fluid with the lid on TIGHT & use it within 12 months
-Put the lid back on the brake fluid bottle as soon as you have finished topping up the reservoir

-Making a 1 man bleeder bottle:
-Cut a 60cm length of clear PVC hose that has an internal diameter of about 6mm
-Drill a hole in the lid of an old clear drink bottle. Make sure that the hose is a tight fit in the bottle lid.
-Fill the bleeder bottle with 100ml of brake fluid (If you are flushing the system then you can use the fluid that you removed from the reservoir)
-Feed the hose into the bottle so that the hose reaches the bottom

-You can also buy 1 man bleeder kits that have a 1 way valve. You don't need to fill these with 100ml brake fluid first. Although in case the valve fails, its good insurance to do so. (Use old fluid from the reservoir if you are flushing the system)

-You should only run the scan tool program for bleeding the brakes in conjunction with a 1 man bleeder set up. Otherwise the valves will pull air in once the ABS system has finished evacuating fluid.

-Making a DIY master cylinder kit:
-Cut 2 40cm lengths of 3/16" washer fluid hose
-Glue the hoses into 2 M10 male brake unions

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Option 1 (Scan tool):

(YOU CAN BLEED ALL OF THE BRAKE LINES WITHOUT REMOVING ANY WHEELS - DOING SO JUST GIVES YOU BETTER ACCSSES - YOU WILL STILL NEED TO SUPPORT THE CAR WITH AXLE STANDS THOUGH)

-Crack off the wheel nuts for every wheel (19mm)
-Support the car with axle stands
-Remove the wheels (19mm) 

-Remove all of the bleed valve dust covers
-Spray penetrating oil & wire brush all of the bleed valves
-Crack off both of the front calliper & rear wheel cylinder bleed valves with a SOCKET, and then gently fasten them back up (12mm for front callipers & 8mm for rear wheel cylinders)

-Attach a 1 man bleed bottle/kit hose to both of the front calliper bleed valves. Make sure that the hose is positioned so that it arches up and over the height level of the bleed valve. Now secure the hose on the valve with a cable tie. You can elevate the bottle by placing it on a bucket or something similar. You can elevate the 1 man kit by using long cable ties or wire to suspend it in the air, by hanging it from the bottom coil spring.

-Plug the FORScan OBD reader into the OBD2 port & connect the vehicle (MAKE SURE THAT BOTH THE LAPTOP AND CAR HAS FULL CHARGE)
-Click on the service functions tab which has a spanner icon
-Click on ABS service bleed & press the play button in the bottom left corner of the screen
-Select the bleed master cylinder option & then click ok

-Open both of the front calliper bleed screws with an 12mm spanner (Preferably a flare spanner) 
-Press ok on the message prompt & the ABS unit will instantly start bleeding the 2 front brake lines
-Without delay go to the brake fluid reservoir and start filling it right to the top. Do this until the unit has stopped pumping fluid through. You will need to start filling the system before it finishes its procedure (DON'T LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY)
-Quickly tighten the bleed screws & put the dust covers back on

-Transfer the 1 man bleed bottle/kit hoses to both of the rear wheel cylinder bleed valves. Make sure that the hose is positioned so that it arches up and over the height level of the bleed valve. Now secure the hose on the valve with a cable tie. You can elevate the bottle by placing it on a bucket or something similar. You can elevate the 1 man kit by using long cable ties or wire to suspend it in the air, by hanging it from the coil spring.

-Open both of the rear wheel cylinder bleed screws with an 8mm spanner (Preferably a flare spanner) 
-Press ok on the message prompt & the ABS unit will instantly start bleeding the 2 rear brake lines
-Without delay go to the brake fluid reservoir and start filling it right to the top. Do this until the unit has stopped pumping fluid through. You will need to start filling the system before it finishes its procedure (DON'T LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY)
-Quickly tighten the bleed screws & put the dust covers back on

-Make sure that the fluid level is at the maximum mark (If there is too much fluid then remove it with a turkey baster)
-Make sure that the fluid reservoir cap is back on tight
-Check that the brake pedal is firm. You may need to bleed the master cylinder another 1-2 times using the method above.
-Clean up any brake fluid residue with brake cleaner & a rag

-If you haven't removed any wheels then lower the car back down

-If you have removed the front wheel(s) then apply a conservative amount of aluminium anti seize to the hat of the brake rotor(s) (Don't get any on the studs)
-Put the front wheel(s) back on (19mm)
-Put the front end back on the ground
-Tighten the front wheel(s) to 110Nm (19mm)

-If you have removed the rear wheel(s) then apply a conservative amount of copper anti seize to the mating face of the brake drum(s) (Don't get any on the studs)
-Put the rear wheel(s) back on (19mm)
-Put the rear end back on the ground
-Tighten the rear wheel(s) to 110Nm (19mm)

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Option 2 (Reroute brake pipes):

-Tightly place clingfilm over the fluid reservoir and reattach the cap to create a vacuum
-Crack off the 2 brake line unions going into the master cylinder with mole grips
 
-Unfasten the 2 13mm brake line unions in the master cylinder and move the lines over to one side

-Screw 2 M10 male union fittings into the ports on the master cylinder (You can either use a master cylinder bleeding kit or buy actual brake line fittings)
-If you are using the master cylinder bleeding kit then attach the 2 hoses and then feed those hoses as deep into the master cylinder reservoir as you can
-If you are making your own kit then glue 2 lengths of washer fluid tubing into the fittings (3/16") and feed them as deep into the master cylinder reservoir as you can

-Remove the reservoir cap
-Top up the brake fluid until it is at the max fill line

-Press the brake pedal in repeatedly. Press it smoothly but in fairly quick succession so that the fluid does not keep draining back down the lines. (DONT PRESS TOO HARD AT THE END OF THE PEDAL TRAVEL AS THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE)
-After 20 pumps check the fluid level and top up if needed
-Continue to keep pumping the brake pedal until no more air is rising towards the top of the reservoir (Set a camera up or get an assistant to watch the reservoir)

-Remove the master cylinder bleeding kit
-Reinsert the brake lines and tighten them up (13mm spanner)

-Make sure that the fluid level is at the maximum mark (If there is too much fluid then remove it with a turkey baster)
-Make sure that the fluid reservoir cap is back on tight
-Clean up any brake fluid residue with brake cleaner & a rag

-You will now need to flush & bleed the full brake system as the 2 main lines have been exposed to air. Refer to the brake bleeding guide.

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Useful sources:

Easy Brake Bleed with FORScan 💻🏁

Easy How To Bleed Brake Master Cylinder On The Car No bench bleeding..

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