Hi!

Last couple of weeks all warning lights go off in the dashboard on my 2008 Focus mk2. The metres go up and down like mad and engine malfunction limited speed mode displays as well, but the car runs as normal. Coincidentally, I've failed to start the car a few times during this period, but other times is starts and runs as if nothing was going on. I took it to a local auto repair but they failed to identify the problem and recommended me to see a authorised Ford mechanic.

According to the readings done with my own obd2-scanner, most fault codes derrives from the powertrain: P0231-63, P0232-63, P0571-63, P2121-63, as well as U1900-20, and U2510-20 pointing to the Instrument Cluster.

Anyone else who have had this problem and actually got it sorted?

Common issue with the mk2 mk2.5 

most likely instrument cluster, try whacking the top of the dash above the cluster or remove it and wiggle the connector.

resoldering the pcb costs about £100 

Classic solder joint issue, needs re-soldering.

Ford switched to use of lead-free solder due to changes in EU legislation in 2006. Unfortunately it can end up cracking over time. This is commonly seen where the pins of the instrument cluster's main wiring connector is soldered to the circuit board. This needs re-soldering with standard leaded solder.

There's are lots of services on ebay and such to do this for you if you send them the instrument cluster.

Thanks for your input to both of you. But could that alone really lead to starting issues? Because those problems started after the dashboard issues.

It definitely can affect starting . The instrument cluster and engine ecu are connected by canbus wires which carry a constant stream of computer data, any slight disruption to data flow and it causes problems. 

20 minutes ago, AllIcouldAf-ford said:

Thanks for your input to both of you. But could that alone really lead to starting issues? Because those problems started after the dashboard issues.

Yes, as isetta has just explained.

A relative's 58-reg just recently suffered from very similar symptoms to yours, various warning lights flashing, an 'engine malfunction acceleration reduced' ("limp mode") message appearing, and sometimes but not always refusing to start. Hitting the dash above the instrument cluster could get it started when it was otherwise refusing, which is a good indicator that it was this issue. I then took the cluster apart, I found the usual sign of cracking on two of the pins, I replaced the solder with leaded solder, and so far no problems.

Everything you're describing very, very strongly suggests the solder issue.

My son’s 2008ST had engine malfunction warnings, pas warnings and limp home mode. He drove it 300 miles using the slap dash method. Had the cluster overhauled, resoldered all joints (£100) 10 yr guarantee, 

that was 18 months ago. All good.

There are YouTube videos showing how to do it, it’s quite involved like taking the needles off the gauges to get to the correct side of the circuit board. The soldering is very precise on small pins. It’s certainly not for someone’s first time at soldering. But if you really need to cut costs you might be able to take it apart yourself and then get someone who is good at intricate electrical soldering to do the soldering. It’s a five minute job to solder when the circuit board is out . 

57 minutes ago, rd457 said:

Yes, as isetta has just explained.

A relative's 58-reg just recently suffered from very similar symptoms to yours, various warning lights flashing, an 'engine malfunction acceleration reduced' ("limp mode") message appearing, and sometimes but not always refusing to start. Hitting the dash above the instrument cluster could get it started when it was otherwise refusing, which is a good indicator that it was this issue. I then took the cluster apart, I found the usual sign of cracking on two of the pins, I replaced the solder with leaded solder, and so far no problems.

Everything you're describing very, very strongly suggests the solder issue.

I hope it's nothing "worse" such as ecu. 

Anyway, one of the fault codes I got was P1260 - "Theft detected, vehicle immobilised". Maybe it's not too far off to think this could be why the car was "dead" a couple of times when I turned the ingnition key. Maybe it went into anti-theft mode and shut down!?