I know! Diagnosing a clunk or noise from suspension is hard without actually feeling and hearing it. But Iv had a look and all the usual look fine, track end, drop link, and Iv not long since replaced control arm.

But am getting heavy clunk at front NS over bumps, but the bit that stands out. If I drop of a curb. I get a quick flash of power steering fault on dash along with the clunk. And I could of sworn I felt the wheel tip to one side (camber) as if it was gonna go under the car. That happened full lock and only once, but Iv not given it much chance to happen again as it felt like I should go home and fix it! 

Any help appreciated so I can figure out if I am doing it myself or finding a trusted mech!

So... Turns out the power steering fault got nothing to do with clunk. Clunk is snapped spring.

But looks like Iv got electrical issue. Head lights pop within couple week. Cuts out completely for a second or 2. And power steering fault. Dim and flickering dash lights and internal light flickers.

Am leaning towards alternator and lack of power. Any thoughts?

1 hour ago, Simmo80 said:

So... Turns out the power steering fault got nothing to do with clunk. Clunk is snapped spring.

But looks like Iv got electrical issue. Head lights pop within couple week. Cuts out completely for a second or 2. And power steering fault. Dim and flickering dash lights and internal light flickers.

Am leaning towards alternator and lack of power. Any thoughts?

Check to see which battery is fitted.  Chances are someone fitted a standard lead acid battery which won't last long and will damage the alternator as well.  

7 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Check to see which battery is fitted.  Chances are someone fitted a standard lead acid battery which won't last long and will damage the alternator as well.  

Which battery should be fitted? Also showing signs of over charging, corrosion on positive terminal. Will the damage start at voltage regulator ?

4 minutes ago, Simmo80 said:

Which battery should be fitted? Also showing signs of over charging, corrosion on positive terminal. Will the damage start at voltage regulator ?

Should be silver calcium due to the SmartCharge on Mk2s.

I think the original Spec for your model was Silver Calcium 60Ah 590A

Since battery technology has moved on in the last 10 years the equivalent is now the Calcium/Calcium

My son’s silver calcium battery on his focus lasted 9.5 years. Replaced with the Ford silver calcium 5 yrs ago.

Dare I post it again but multiple electrical gremlins on mk2 and Mk2.5 focus often emminate from the instrument cluster solder issue.

the vibration from the ‘clunk’ of the broken spring could vibrate the cluster causing issues. Give the dash a whack above the cluster . A pot hole first started my son’s cluster failure.

Turns out, it is calcium. Drivetech DM100. And to be fair. It's been on nearly 2 year.

So am thinking replace alternator 

I've got a dead Lion calcium that's only lasted 2 years as well...  Perhaps cheaper calcium isn't the suitable replacement for silver calcium that the manufacturers are suggesting...

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I've got a dead Lion calcium

To be honest Tom I don't know what the difference is but there are:-

"Calcium" batteries and "Calcium, Calcium" batteries. Something must be different as companies like Yuasa are making both 🤔

Of course it doesn't help that Yuasa and some others have a range of batteries called "Silver" and "Gold" which completely messes up the search engines 🙁

Many search results come up with the Yuasa Silver Calcium battery which is not a Silver/Calcium battery !!!

Talk about them trying to confuse the issue, it's like putting Matt Hancock in charge of battery polices 🤣