Hi, I’ve recently purchased a 2019 focus titanium 1.0 ecoboost 125hp.

The stop /start hasn’t worked since I bought the car. Greyed out A with line going through.

Recently both the front and rear heated screens have stopped working. On the sync radio screen, I get the system off to save battery warning.

I have looked into the issues and see that there are issues with the SOC%  on the battery.

I've checked the battery with a battery tester and the result was good/recharge.

I have charged the battery over night in the car with the negative attached to the car chassis,

The next morning the heated screens worked, for about a week and then stopped, if I do a manual BMS they work again until the next day.

That morning I checked the battery again, it still said good/recharge. I used the CTEK MXS 5.0 charger for over 14 hours. Would the battery be near its end?

I have learnt that I should not have done this as it should  only be  done when you fit a new battery.

I have kids and they use the heated seats a lot after football training and such, maybe that is drawing too much power.

Should the heated screens/seats  not work off the alternator when the car starts?

There is only 25000 klms /16000mls on the car.

I’m wondering if the car was left sitting for a long time until I bought it and would replacing the battery for a new one would make any difference.

I don’t care if the stop /start works. The heated screens is really what’s bugging me the most, you would think that the heated seats would stop before the heated screens.

The car still has the original Ford battery, EFB 60AH 600A I measured it to be 248*175*190 high-(not as stated online?)

the one thing I noticed is when I look online at battery options they give a battery size of 248*175*175 high

When I check the Varta website it states that I can use the larger N70 EFB 570 500 076.

This battery is rated at 70AH 760A. 248*175*190 high.

Another battery I was looking at is Yuasa YBX7096 EBF stop/start battery 096--- 70AH 650A

Which would be the better replacement, or what have others done to sort the problems out.

Is it possible to replace this battery and change the soc from 80% to 95% using the forscan method as others have done. I know nothing about forscan or any diagnostics software.

Would the batterys work ok in the car?

Id really appreciate any help

thanks.

 

 

 

Quick answers to a complex issue.

• Modern cars all suffer with the vehicle battery gradually having a low State Of Charge (SOC)
• Expect to charge the battery about every 6 weeks for at least 12 hours.
• Do NOT reset the Battery Monitor System (BMS) unless you have fitted a new battery.
• Most Smart battery chargers will be suitable provided they have an output capacity of 4 Amps or more.
• Always connect the charger positive lead direct to the battery and connect the negative lead to the chassis earth point.
• Never expect Stop/Start to work. It is a gimmick that enabled the manufacture to get the vehicle through the emissions type approval. There are approximately 114 different items which are monitored and that have to be correct before there is a possibility that S/S will operate.
• Use of heavy electrical equipment will reduce the SOC of the battery over time. This may require more frequent charging and/or for longer periods of time.
• Increasing the default SOC of the vehicle from 80% to a higher level, for example 95% may lengthen the time between needing to top up with a battery charger. In the warmer weather it may even mean there is no need for extra charging.
• Use a multimeter to check the battery SOC at least 1 hour after it has finished been charged.

Just stick a Diesel battery on, that's what I do, it will last longer

Hi,Thanks for your response 

Seems crazy to be charging a battery every 6 weeks or so, I never had to do anything like that with my older cars.

im not bothered about the stop/start working or not, but expect the window heaters to work all the time, is it possible to change the priority of electrical components that turn off, ie can I get the car to look at the heated seats before the heated screens.

Is it possible to put a stronger powered battery in the car ,I think my battery is starting to fail. My plan is to put a new battery in just to be sure, was looking at the following.

Varta N70 EFB 570 500 /(70AH 760A)—248*175*190 high.

Yuasa YBX7096 EFB 096–(70AH 650A)

—248*175*190 high

Can I put the stronger Ah battery into the car, do I have to change anything?

can an Agm battery be fitted, they are for cars with more electrical gadgets, EFB seem to be for entry level stop/start systems.

if I put one of the above batteries in the car and reset the BMS would that work.?

if I fully charge the original battery and reset the BMS would I get the same result.? Ie would the car think it has a new battery.

Thanks 

 

 

17 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

Just stick a Diesel battery on, that's what I do, it will last longer

What do you mean by diesel battery, 

a higher AH, 

what battery did you put in your car,

and did you have to reset the battery type in the car

I bought the YBX7096, if you listen to the battery finder you’ll end up with a 175mm tall battery that won’t be held down by the retaining bar. 
 

 

I've just put a YBX7096 in mine too. It should be 75Ah 700CCA (not 70/650).

I changed my BCM config with Forscan to match the diesels so it knows it's a bigger battery.

4 hours ago, alexp999 said:

I've just put a YBX7096 in mine too. It should be 75Ah 700CCA (not 70/650).

I changed my BCM config with Forscan to match the diesels so it knows it's a bigger battery.

The battery I’m looking at is 70/650. On micks garage website.

the Yuasa website is what you have. I’m going to try and get the same as yours,

when did you install the battery and has it sorted out any of the issues for you.

What battery did you set in forscan.

Did you charge the battery before you put it in the car.Did you reset the BMS  and change the soc setting.

thanks

29 minutes ago, DER125 said:

The battery I’m looking at is 70/650. On micks garage website.

the Yuasa website is what you have. I’m going to try and get the same as yours,

when did you install the battery and has it sorted out any of the issues for you.

What battery did you set in forscan.

Did you charge the battery before you put it in the car.Did you reset the BMS  and change the soc setting.

thanks

I fitted it on 7th March.

I changed it because even after a run I was quickly getting the passenger side keyless turning off and the system off to save power messages on the Sync screen. I knew that my original battery would have lost a bit of it's life when a fault with the TCU caused the battery to drain down to 3V when the car was about 9 months old. The battery wouldn't go over 12V when connected to the car where it used to be 12.4V in accessory mode, even after charging it. The charger also said it was full after only a couple of hours, so I knew it was significantly down on capacity. Although it would have probably gone on (at starting the engine) for another 6 months, I decided for the sake of £120 I didn't want to wait for it to die and wanted to be able to use by heated steering, seats and screens without worrying.

I checked the voltage of the battery when it arrived and it was 12.8V so didn't bother charging it anymore.

I changed the capacity and reset the BMS but it's still on default SoC

I charged mine when it came but it went to FULL on my smart charger within an hour, so probably no need to charge it up. I only did because it was raining outside.

5 hours ago, DER125 said:

What do you mean by diesel battery, 

a higher AH, 

what battery did you put in your car,

and did you have to reset the battery type in the car

Yeah, I just bought the battery for a 2.0 Diesel instead of 1.0 ecoboost.

My wife used to do very small journeys and it kept going flat, had no issues since, stop/start always works.

Didn't change anything 

It doesn't make a big difference changing the setting of battery size, but I get a bit OCD about things like that. I changed my mum's Kuga to a bigger battery without updating the config and it's been fine.

The diesels come with 70Ah/700CCA batteries as standard (as do some of the MHEVs interestingly).

When I changed the setting the SoC dropped from 90% to 86%.

The setting basically lets the car more accurately figure out the SoC and also it knows it can charge the bigger batteries at a slightly higher current.

3 hours ago, alexp999 said:

I fitted it on 7th March.

I changed it because even after a run I was quickly getting the passenger side keyless turning off and the system off to save power messages on the Sync screen. I knew that my original battery would have lost a bit of it's life when a fault with the TCU caused the battery to drain down to 3V when the car was about 9 months old. The battery wouldn't go over 12V when connected to the car where it used to be 12.4V in accessory mode, even after charging it. The charger also said it was full after only a couple of hours, so I knew it was significantly down on capacity. Although it would have probably gone on (at starting the engine) for another 6 months, I decided for the sake of £120 I didn't want to wait for it to die and wanted to be able to use by heated steering, seats and screens without worrying.

I checked the voltage of the battery when it arrived and it was 12.8V so didn't bother charging it anymore.

I changed the capacity and reset the BMS but it's still on default SoC

I think my battery is not holding charge as it should,I’ve ordered the same battery as yours,Yuasa YBX7096 EBF 12v 75AH 700A from my auto factors.€145.

they said the battery would be ok to fit in the car, I rang Ford to check , they recommend to put the original 60ah /600 back in, at  a price of €240.🙄I've ordered the FORscan vgate vlinker fs cable also.

Do you have any idea what battery you changed it to in forscan.

should I  fit the new battery and charge it in the car or would it be better to charge it out off the car. At what point do I reset the BMS before or after fitting the battery, probably doesn’t matter?

thanks for all the replies.

hopefully I get the battery before the weekend.

 

You can change battery spec and reset BMS in central configuration.

But, I wouldn't worry, I never did and have had no issues, stop/start always works

You should reset the BMS when you change the battery at the very least as that resets the days in service for the battery, but it can be done with a button combination, it doesn't have to be done with Forscan or another OBD device.

The days in service counter affects how the system treats the battery, it is programmed to adapt with battery age.

It doesn't actually matter whether you reset it just before or just after changing the battery. Disconnecting the battery resets all the BMS parameters except for days in service. If you reset before or after changing it's not making any meaningful difference to the counter.

I set the first block of 726-02-01 to 1C1C (from 0707), that's how the diesels and MHEVs with the bigger battery from factory are configured from around the same time and with the same calibration (firmware) as my car. You have to do it through as built on forscan, it's not in the drop down (neither is my car's factory configured 07).

Newer built cars (with different calibration) use different values there, so this isn't a one size fits all. I compared against about 10 other VINs from around the time mine was built and compared calibraton and values to make sure they were consistent for the change I wanted to make. It's probably safer to leave it on the old value than set it to the wrong value.

But as has been mentioned, it's not that important to change it. My mum's Kuga has been fine without a config change (I just reset BMS through a button combo).

4 hours ago, alexp999 said:

I set the first block of 726-02-01 to 1C1C (from 0707), that's how the diesels and MHEVs with the bigger battery from factory are configured from around the same time and with the same calibration (firmware) as my car. You have to do it through as built on forscan, it's not in the drop down (neither is my car's factory configured 07).

Newer built cars (with different calibration) use different values there, so this isn't a one size fits all. I compared against about 10 other VINs from around the time mine was built and compared calibraton and values to make sure they were consistent for the change I wanted to make. It's probably safer to leave it on the old value than set it to the wrong value.

But as has been mentioned, it's not that important to change it. My mum's Kuga has been fine without a config change (I just reset BMS through a button combo).

I wouldn’t try anything like that. I’d be afraid I’d mess things up,

one last question, is going from a 60ah/600

to a75ah/700 going to burn out any electrical systems?

or be to much load for the alternator?

there seems to be plenty of people putting larger batteries in their cars so hopefully it’s ok,

 

35 minutes ago, DER125 said:

I wouldn’t try anything like that. I’d be afraid I’d mess things up,

one last question, is going from a 60ah/600

to a75ah/700 going to burn out any electrical systems?

or be to much load for the alternator?

there seems to be plenty of people putting larger batteries in their cars so hopefully it’s ok,

 

No, the battery doesn't put much load on the alternator, it's much harder for it to power the heated screen than charge the battery.

There won't be any issues.

The only time there is a risk is going the other way. Fitting a battery smaller than the car is expecting can result in over charging battery.

Hi  What’s your experience been after changing your battery ? And did you make any adjustments other than the BMS 

 

Does your 2011 Focus have BMS, most cars of that age don't ?

Sorry old profile details I have a 2019 Active X  1.0 petrol. Having the same experience as 

DER 125 the original poster. Was wondering if he had changed his battery. and could post an update. 

 

41 minutes ago, unofix said:

Does your 2011 Focus have BMS, most cars of that age don't ?

Brilliant unofix thanks 👍

25 minutes ago, unofix said: