Best way to describe it is as sluggish or a little hesitant although generally it doesn't seem like a big problem it is noticeable.

I am far from an expert in these matters - what would be the best means of troubleshooting this without spending a fortune?

This is the 1.4 TDCi engine for reference.

Research has led me to MAF and MAP sensors, EGR and possibly the Lambda sensor but I'm a bit stumped to be honest.

Trying to borrow an OBD reader to see if any codes have been stored.

Would running some fuel system or engine cleaners be of use before taking anything apart?

OBD scanning is the most effective place to start.  However, generic OBD readers can't pick up Ford specific codes.  It's still worth trying if you can borrow one, but if no codes are found, there may still be some Ford specific ones hidden.

Very difficult to guess parts for a fault like this.

Do you get any black exhaust smoke if you accelerate hard?  I'd start by looking for a boost leak if so.

@TomsFocus No smoke that I am aware of.

A little confused about what the TDCi has as there is a sensor near the front of the air cleaner on the end of the hose would this be the MAF and as Haynes suggests the MAP is on the rear of the air cleaner?

There is also a sensor with two pipes clamped to it that also looks that it could be a pressure sensor clipped under the air cleaner pipe which I understand to be the exhaust pressure sensor and won't be a likely cause of these issues?

One other question on this to help diagnose. Would any error codes be presented via the test menu on the dash if accessed as per the below?

 

12 hours ago, steveyeu22 said:

@TomsFocus No smoke that I am aware of.

A little confused about what the TDCi has as there is a sensor near the front of the air cleaner on the end of the hose would this be the MAF and as Haynes suggests the MAP is on the rear of the air cleaner?

There is also a sensor with two pipes clamped to it that also looks that it could be a pressure sensor clipped under the air cleaner pipe which I understand to be the exhaust pressure sensor and won't be a likely cause of these issues?

Yes, the MAF sensor is front right of the air cleaner, directly in the air hose.

The MAP sensor location is a bit odd on these.  It's bolted to the top of the engine, underneath the air cleaner, with a small pipe from the sensor to the plastic intake manifold behind the engine.

The sensor with two small pipes is the DPF differential pressure sensor, as you suggested.

 

11 hours ago, steveyeu22 said:

One other question on this to help diagnose. Would any error codes be presented via the test menu on the dash if accessed as per the below?

 

No.  If the cluster showed useful codes, we wouldn't all have to waste time and money on OBD scanning.  It's a shame that 'hidden menu' has been so widely spread around the internet imo.

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, the MAF sensor is front right of the air cleaner, directly in the air hose.

The MAP sensor location is a bit odd on these.  It's bolted to the top of the engine, underneath the air cleaner, with a small pipe from the sensor to the plastic intake manifold behind the engine.

The sensor with two small pipes is the DPF differential pressure sensor, as you suggested.

 

No.  If the cluster showed useful codes, we wouldn't all have to waste time and money on OBD scanning.  It's a shame that 'hidden menu' has been so widely spread around the internet imo.

Perfect thanks for the detailed reply.  I am starting to wonder driving more today if it may be my driving style and coming off the accelerator and some of it might be engine braking.  Still going to do the checks though.  Is there a diagram or guide on where the boost hoses would be so I can as a minimum check the clamps?

14 minutes ago, steveyeu22 said:

Still going to do the checks though.  Is there a diagram or guide on where the boost hoses would be so I can as a minimum check the clamps?

There isn't a single diagram.  You can use 7zap to see pipes in different areas but that may cause more confusion while you're still getting to know this engine.  (One diagram shown below).

It's fairly easy to understand the boost hose system though, there's no intercooler on these which cuts down the amount of pipework.  Just start at the turbo itself and you'll see that square plastic resonator coming off the back (9F763 on pic), that's technically the first boost hose.  Then just follow that right the way round to the back of the engine where you'll find the hard plastic inlet manifold.  If you see oil leaking or misting around any of the boost hoses, that's usually a good indication that there's a boost leak there.  The throttle body on these is well known for leaking, so I'd expect to see a bit of oil on the bottom of that.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

There isn't a single diagram.  You can use 7zap to see pipes in different areas but that may cause more confusion while you're still getting to know this engine.  (One diagram shown below).

It's fairly easy to understand the boost hose system though, there's no intercooler on these which cuts down the amount of pipework.  Just start at the turbo itself and you'll see that square plastic resonator coming off the back (9F763 on pic), that's technically the first boost hose.  Then just follow that right the way round to the back of the engine where you'll find the hard plastic inlet manifold.  If you see oil leaking or misting around any of the boost hoses, that's usually a good indication that there's a boost leak there.  The throttle body on these is well known for leaking, so I'd expect to see a bit of oil on the bottom of that.

Now this is where things get confusing. My registration plate and all other literature suggests the car to be 1.4 TDCi and Eurocarparts etc brings up the correct filters and other parts yet the air filter box etc is the shape of the 1.6 engine so it ends up becoming even harder to understand from some diagrams what parts are where.

I can confirm there is no smoke from the exhaust as a starting point however.

Would tightening the clamps on the boost hoses be a good starting point or at least checking they are snug? Will have to wait until I can get the car up on a jack to check the underside though.

EDIT: Can't get the link to the image but it's the other air cleaner diagrams for the 08-12 CB1 on 7zap

Probably not worth tightening hose clamps if you're not getting any smoke.  It won't do any harm, but may be wasting time that could be spent on more useful things such as checking codes.

With the square airbox setup, the MAF is the red sensor on top of the hose connector as you thought.

 

I have checked the top of the engine tonight and no immediately obvious issues in terms of loose connections or the sound of air escaping which is a good start.

Need to borrow an OBD reader to see what I can find code wise. Given the age of the car not yet sold on getting the lead for Forscan unless I really need it.