2 hours ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

...aftert a couple of days it blasted out freezing cold air....

Well, at least you know there isn't a leak, once the A/C gas has gone, it doesn't return intermittently...

7 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

once the A/C gas has gone, it doesn't return intermittently...

Not even if you suck it and see ? 🤣

Sounds like low battery SOC.

If they still can't find the fault, ask them to check the battery SOC reading on the car.

If it's different to the actual battery charge (measured by an external source) then that's the problem.

Been told today that my battery is only at 20% abd it should be almost 50% before the air conditioning will work, Paid £26000 for this car and it seems it will be undrivable in the summer. They did offer to charge my battery and I said what is the point, he just smiled.

Reply to Unofix, think thats obvious, if the post was read as it should had been it stated that it was intermittent

On 4/15/2024 at 1:14 PM, StephenFord said:

On such a new car you'd have to be dreadfully unlucky to have a leak in the A/C system, we have a car in the family now over 20 years old that the A.C is still icy cold and hasn't been touched since it left the factory, though it is a Toyota.

If it were me, I'd book it in for a recharge to somewhere like KwikFit. Before they fill it, they do a test to see if there is a leak (they won't be able to fix it, but if it's large enough for their diagnostic machine to pick up, at least you know what you're dealing with). If they do fill it, and it doesn't reduce the temperature by a predetermined amount, you get a full refund so you won't be out of pocket...

 

They say its a battery problkem and offered to charge it, if its not holding a charge what is the point, perhaps they should had stipulated ONLY DRIVE IN THE WINTER.

4 minutes ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

They say its a battery problkem and offered to charge it, if its not holding a charge what is the point, perhaps they should had stipulated ONLY DRIVE IN THE WINTER.

You can't drive it in the winter either.  The heated screens and aux heater won't work with low voltage.  

You gotta admire new technology. It's enabled a whole layer of faults that barely existed 10 years ago LOL

Oh, it was announced today that UK legislation will be introduced in 2026 to allow, 'driverless' cars on the road. I can't wait. Anyone that has ever had to reboot a device because it froze will simply laugh as the cars speed straight through a roundabout as the 'chip' thought it was on a motorway!

Most sensible people will know this is the dumbest idea (on same level as battery cars), but the brains of the country are blind to it - I smell the scent of very big money 🤣

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

You can't drive it in the winter either.  The heated screens and aux heater won't work with low voltage.  

 

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

You can't drive it in the winter either.  The heated screens and aux heater won't work with low voltage.  

Thanks for making my day

1 minute ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

Thanks for making my day

On a serious note, if the battery is genuinely only at 20% now, it may not even start the car when the colder weather arrives.

Would you have access to plug in a battery charger where you park?  Smart chargers can be bought for £20 or less nowadays.

It's true that the modern charging systems don't charge to 100%, but they should be charging to 75% or more when driven over a few miles.

35 minutes ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

making my day

Have you got a digital multimeter so you can measure the battery voltage one hour after parking up?

Just reading through this thread I noted that a couple of posters made reference to their SOC as measured by the dealer diagnostics being substantially lower than the actual battery voltage would indicate.

BMS being "out" due to possible charging errors (e.g. using the -ve terminal on the battery rather than chassis earthing point) was mentioned as a possible cause. Could this be a factor in this latest case?

When I had my car in for its first service we had a long chat (more of a mutual rant actually!) about battery issues and I'm sure the service adviser mentioned coming across this.

1 hour ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

Just reading through this thread I noted that a couple of posters made reference to their SOC as measured by the dealer diagnostics being substantially lower than the actual battery voltage would indicate.

BMS being "out" due to possible charging errors (e.g. using the -ve terminal on the battery rather than chassis earthing point) was mentioned as a possible cause. Could this be a factor in this latest case?

When I had my car in for its first service we had a long chat (more of a mutual rant actually!) about battery issues and I'm sure the service adviser mentioned coming across this.

NO nothing was mentioned, Ford advised me to have a re-charge and they will go from there, it is in there now and I pick it up tomorrow. I have been told though that they cannot change the battery as they have not got the equipment to do some test or another although they are a Ford agent they cannot get hold of whatever it is and I would have to take it to a lookers garage, whatch this space.

5 hours ago, unofix said:

Have you got a digital multimeter so you can measure the battery voltage one hour after parking up?

Its in the garage now, Ford have agreed wiyth the garage to do an overnight fre-charge and to take it from there but this Ford agent is missing a certain piece of equipment that they cannot get hold off so if the battery has to be repolaced on their reccomendations I will have to take it to a Lookers garage.

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

On a serious note, if the battery is genuinely only at 20% now, it may not even start the car when the colder weather arrives.

Would you have access to plug in a battery charger where you park?  Smart chargers can be bought for £20 or less nowadays.

It's true that the modern charging systems don't charge to 100%, but they should be charging to 75% or more when driven over a few miles.

Cant really be serious , it beggars belief. The garage reccomended a full re=charge overnight but as I knew Ford was going to call me today after talking to them yesterday I said I would wait to see what Ford tewlls me today. Give Fords their due he was on the phone at 9 this morning and he said that I should go for the recharge and he will phone for the report. Its in the garage now and I will pick it up in the morning but one thing they said is that they do not have the special equipment to test the battery, apparently they are trying to get it without any luck so if they reccomend a battery replacement I would have to go to a lookers garage where they could check it with this so called machine. Whatvthis is all about I dont know.

4 minutes ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

Cant really be serious , it beggars belief. The garage reccomended a full re=charge overnight but as I knew Ford was going to call me today after talking to them yesterday I said I would wait to see what Ford tewlls me today. Give Fords their due he was on the phone at 9 this morning and he said that I should go for the recharge and he will phone for the report. Its in the garage now and I will pick it up in the morning but one thing they said is that they do not have the special equipment to test the battery, apparently they are trying to get it without any luck so if they reccomend a battery replacement I would have to go to a lookers garage where they could check it with this so called machine. Whatvthis is all about I dont know.

You would had thought that with all the additional things that will not work under a certain level they would had put in a battery to cope or at least a better alternator wouldnt you?

You know, you can do multi quotes in the same post 😂

5 minutes ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

You would had thought that with all the additional things that will not work under a certain level they would had put in a battery to cope or at least a better alternator wouldnt you?

The alternator works fine.  It's just electronically limited for lower exhaust emissions.  So it charges mainly on over-run (as the revs drop when you slow down, not burning any fuel) and stops charging altogether when the battery reaches around 80% full.

As your battery is so far below 80%, the problem is either that the car doesn't get driven often enough, or far enough.  Or as mentioned above, the car thinks the battery charge is lower than it actually is due to a software glitch.

If you can monitor the actual battery voltage with a multimeter over a few days/weeks when you get the car back, that would be ideal.

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

the problem is either that the car doesn't get driven often enough, or far enough. 

Yes, this has not been mentioned as far as I can see. I was going to ask what mileage the car had done, pattern and frequency of use etc.

Having had the battery issue for the last 6 years (5 with previous Fiesta, 1 with this) I've found using it regularly, not necessarily for long trips, does seem to make a difference, also warmer weather helps, but basically, when the car doesn't get a lot of use, particularly over winter, it's a matter of using the charger every 4 - 6 weeks.

Also, does the car have any of the other typical low battery issues: S/S, keyless, interior lights, hill start assist, etc not working?

, 

9 hours ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

Yes, this has not been mentioned as far as I can see. I was going to ask what mileage the car had done, pattern and frequency of use etc.

Having had the battery issue for the last 6 years (5 with previous Fiesta, 1 with this) I've found using it regularly, not necessarily for long trips, does seem to make a difference, also warmer weather helps, but basically, when the car doesn't get a lot of use, particularly over winter, it's a matter of using the charger every 4 - 6 weeks.

Also, does the car have any of the other typical low battery issues: S/S, keyless, interior lights, hill start assist, etc not working?

, 

Have just got my car back from an overnight charge and they told me to go and buiy a battery charger to keep the charge up, great comment to make. What also worries me is that if the battery gets to low top operate the unlocking how the hell am I goint to get into the car. My previous model had a key in the fob that I could put into the door lock and open it but with the 2023 mild hybrid titanium there is no key entries on the door handle, what do I do then?

1 hour ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

with the 2023 mild hybrid titanium there is no key entries on the door handle, what do I do then?

Do you not have the emergency key blade concealed in the fob? My 2023 with keyless has it.

Operating the Doors From Outside Your Vehicle - Unlocking and Locking the Doors Using the Key Blade

UNLOCKING AND LOCKING THE DOORS USING THE KEY BLADE



Removing the Lock Cylinder Cap

1. Release the key blade from the remote control.   See   Removing the Key Blade. 

1. Fully insert the key blade into the key slot.

1. Gently pull the lock cylinder cap toward you to release it.

1. Insert the key blade into the lock cylinder.

Locking the Doors

Turn the top of the key toward the front of your vehicle.

Unlocking the Driver Door

Turn the top of the key toward the rear of your vehicle.

Note:   If the child safety locks are on and you pull the interior handle, you only switch off the emergency locking, not the child safety lock.You can only open the doors using the external door handle.

Reinstalling the Lock Cylinder Cap

1. Place the cap over the lock cylinder.

1. Push the cap forward until it clicks into place. Make sure you have properly installed the cap by trying to move it rearward.

Fiesta Owner's Manual

Keys and Remote Controls - Removing the Key Blade

REMOVING THE KEY BLADE



The passive key contains a removable key blade that you can use to unlock your vehicle.

1. Press and hold the buttons on the edges of the transmitter to release the cover.Carefully remove the cover.

1. Remove the key blade from the transmitter.

 

Starting and Stopping the Engine - Accessing the Passive Key Backup Position

ACCESSING THE PASSIVE KEY BACKUP POSITION



1. Remove the rubber mat.

1. Place the passive key in the position shown, with the buttons facing upward.

Fiesta Owner's Manual

Thank you

1 minute ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

Thank you

You posted Fiesta owners manual, is this the electronic one on the Ford Pass or is it a proper manual that you used to get. I think its a disgrace that you cannot have a book to keep in your glove compartment

1 minute ago, Keith H Gibbs said:

is this the electronic one

Yes, no paper manuals these days. I share your annoyance at that.

You can also access (online) manuals here as well as via Ford Pass:

https://www.ford.co.uk/support/owner-manuals

17 hours ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

Yes, no paper manuals these days. I share your annoyance at that.

You can also access (online) manuals here as well as via Ford Pass:

https://www.ford.co.uk/support/owner-manuals

Yes but they are not as informative as the book used to be, cost cut but how much do they save, if you have not got any internet you are well and truly stuck. I also think that they are not as informative, I could not find out how to get into my car if the key fob did not work where as someone else did.