Trying to get to the bottom of an issue in my car . 
1.0 ecoboost . Low on power ( feels like no turbo ) 

read the code : P132B-21 turbo boost control A performance signal amplitude < minimum 

( cleared code and no management light on dash ) 

Smoke tested hoses : all ok 

With vacuum Guage I’ve tested the pressure from the pump ( the oneway valve was broken so I have replaced this ) : the vac guage was a solid -30 inHG so seems pump ok 

tested hoses : from solenoid to - waste gate and from Solenoid  to pump also hose from recirculation valve to other end of it = all hoses ok no leaks 

with engine running and vac Guage on hose that goes to waste gate the value is very erratic . It goes to 25-30 inHG initially but drops off straight away . This is replicated when driving as it has no boost but if you let of the throttle and push it down again fast you get a small jerk as if it’s getting boost for a split second ( waste gate it self seems to operate fine with a vacuum on it ) 

tested the recirculation valve with vac guage attached to its pipe and it seems to hold pressure both ways ., ( it did look like it had a split but it’s on on the surface rubber and not gone right through it 

I’m stumped now as I can’t fathom why the vac pressure to the waste gate is fluctuating and dropping off straight away. 
I also bought a second had solenoid but it does the same action . I volt tested the solenoid and it’s getting 12v . 
 

can you guys suggest anything I’ve missed or should check next ?? 
thanks in advance . Any help appreciated. 
cheers 

 

Has this 2013 Ecoboost had the major strip down and had both wet belts replaced ?

8 hours ago, unofix said:

Has this 2013 Ecoboost had the major strip down and had both wet belts replaced ?

Not to my knowledge . But the vacuum signal from the pump is solid -30inHG

 

I have added 12v directly from another battery to the solenoid on the pump

when I do this it sends a full steady vacuum signal to the wastegate which says to me the solenoid or pump is not the problem…!? 
 

With a voltmeter on the connector that goes to the solenoid: it reads 9v with ignition on and up to 11.7v ish when running .. this doesn’t hold a steady vacuuun at the wastegate . And stops the turbo working I think .

Also I took a few sensors out and cleaned with brake fluid . ( no difference ) 

has anyone got any ideas on why the solenoid isn’t keeping vacuum steady at wastegate unless I put 12v directly into it ??

 

Any help gratefully received . 

Have you used your vacuum test equipment to check the waste gate actuator operates correctly and holds steady?

Disconnect vacuum pipe from the actuator, attach vacuum tester - expect smooth movement of the actuator rod and to hold a steady state vacuum. This would confirm there is no issue with the actuator diaphragm.

Nb. Personally I wouldn't rely on just a ambient pressure smoke test. If there were to be an issue with any of the system it may only show when under vacuum (or if it were to be pressurised).

9 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

Have you used your vacuum test equipment to check the waste gate actuator operates correctly and holds steady?

Disconnect vacuum pipe from the actuator, attach vacuum tester - expect smooth movement of the actuator rod and to hold a steady state vacuum. This would confirm there is no issue with the actuator diaphragm.

Yes . All good . It’s the vacuum signal that is going to the wastegate actuator that is the problem 

26 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

Have you used your vacuum test equipment to check the waste gate actuator operates correctly and holds steady?

Disconnect vacuum pipe from the actuator, attach vacuum tester - expect smooth movement of the actuator rod and to hold a steady state vacuum. This would confirm there is no issue with the actuator diaphragm.

Nb. Personally I wouldn't rely on just a ambient pressure smoke test. If there were to be an issue with any of the system it may only show when under vacuum (or if it were to be pressurised).

Also : Used a professional smoke tester that ran pressure and vacuum tested also hoses etc 

Just a thought, vacuum test of the turbo blow off valve and the pipe that goes to it.

During recent work to my car, I found a split where the tube joins the nipple on the valve under the turbo.

17 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

Just a thought, vacuum test of the turbo blow off valve and the pipe that goes to it.

During recent work to my car, I found a split where the tube joins the nipple on the valve under the turbo.

Yes . Vac tested the recirculation valve . ( and its pipe ) 
it’s really confusing why the solenoid isn’t giving a sting signal to wastegate . 
 

'Electronic boost control allows closed loop operation. A closed loop system relies on feedback from the MAP sensor'. 

MAP sensor providing a curved ball?

 

 

8 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

'Electronic boost control allows closed loop operation. A closed loop system relies on feedback from the MAP sensor'. 

MAP sensor providing a curved ball?

 

 

Could be but it’s not throwing a map sensor code . 
I’ve cleaned the map sensor but I can’t say it’s good or not . 
the code that it did throw up originally was 

p132b-21

thanks

1 hour ago, noste500 said:

It’s really confusing why the solenoid isn’t giving a sting signal to wastegate . 

Could be a break in the wire from the PCM to the solenoid?

Just now, TomsFocus said:

Could be a break in the wire from the PCM to the solenoid?

Yes that’s a possibility pal. bit tricky to trace back …

It is giving 11.7v so that is a bit less than a direct 12v source from a battery .  but you would think 11.7v would hold the vacuum but it doesn’t … it drops straight down even though volts stay constant at 11.7 

 

I’ve been reading this 

 

Turbo boost control solenoid valve
The solenoid valve used to control the turbocharger is a three-way, normally closed valve. To see the turbo boost control solenoid valve, refer to Fig.4 There are three ports, although only two may be easily identifiable. There will be a supply (vac-in) from the vacuum pump, output to the turbocharger (vac-out) and an exhaust, which can sometimes be connected to the intake air filter housing. The purpose of the exhaust is to bleed atmospheric air pressure into the vacuum circuit to open the wastegate and control the boost pressure. To see a diagram of a three-way normally closed valve, please refer to Fig.5

my question is : could my solenoid be drawing air in via the “exhaust “ ( as it is described above / not my car exhaust ) 

I believe it could well be . So how do I check this , and what mechanisms tell it to do so ( what sensors etc ) 

Any clues guys ?

Hooked to Forscan . Cleared faults ( as I cleaned sensors etc ) 

test driven : rescanned see pic . 
 

I put my finger over the back port in the solonoid to stop it pulling air in and it seemed to send a ready vacuum to the wastegate : 

so the problem seems to be something , either voltage or signal going to the solenoid is wrong and therefore telling it to pull air in

or something is pressurising that part of the air intake that is hosed up the the back port of the solenoid ( the air bleed-in port ) .

could the recirculation valve cause this ?

could the map sensor be on its way out and not bringing an engine management light on ? 
 

help 🧐

At tickover vs 3000rpm in neutral 

 

https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/ford-focus-1-0-ecoboost-mk3-no-boost-loss-power-fixed.825045/

 

Check this

17 hours ago, M0ndeo said:

https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/ford-focus-1-0-ecoboost-mk3-no-boost-loss-power-fixed.825045/

 

Check this

if you mean the one way check valve issue !?? , it has been renewed. and tested . 

On 7/15/2023 at 8:00 PM, noste500 said:

Trying to get to the bottom of an issue in my car . 
1.0 ecoboost . Low on power ( feels like no turbo ) 

read the code : P132B-21 turbo boost control A performance signal amplitude < minimum 

( cleared code and no management light on dash ) 

Smoke tested hoses : all ok 

With vacuum Guage I’ve tested the pressure from the pump ( the oneway valve was broken so I have replaced this ) : the vac guage was a solid -30 inHG so seems pump ok 

tested hoses : from solenoid to - waste gate and from Solenoid  to pump also hose from recirculation valve to other end of it = all hoses ok no leaks 

with engine running and vac Guage on hose that goes to waste gate the value is very erratic . It goes to 25-30 inHG initially but drops off straight away . This is replicated when driving as it has no boost but if you let of the throttle and push it down again fast you get a small jerk as if it’s getting boost for a split second ( waste gate it self seems to operate fine with a vacuum on it ) 

tested the recirculation valve with vac guage attached to its pipe and it seems to hold pressure both ways ., ( it did look like it had a split but it’s on on the surface rubber and not gone right through it 

I’m stumped now as I can’t fathom why the vac pressure to the waste gate is fluctuating and dropping off straight away. 
I also bought a second had solenoid but it does the same action . I volt tested the solenoid and it’s getting 12v . 
 

can you guys suggest anything I’ve missed or should check next ?? 
thanks in advance . Any help appreciated. 
cheers 

 

Hi all, 

Just in case anyone is experiencing the following symptoms, my Ecoboost 140 had the exact same issue and all testing completed by nost500e above was also completed by myself. 
 

After months of getting nowhere and replacing every sensor relating to the boost control system, I decided to remove and inspect the turbo and its wastgate visually. Very interestingly, it appeared the wastage was closing fully but after applying vacuum using a handheld vac pump, it was not fully sealing causing a boost leak which was resulting in the P0132b:21 when under load. It was very deceiving as when visually inspecting, it had sealed but the linkages were weak and either the Wastgate actuator’s diaphragm had failed or the penny valve (internally) had worn (both common). Having said this, my turbo had done over 100k prior to this fault code/failure so had a good life’s worth.
 

As removing/replacing the turbo can be costly, I would advise anyone reading this to firstly check the Sensors (MAP, MAF, Boost Pressure Sensor), Vacuum Pump and ensure the boost control solenoid attached to it are both functioning correctly. As they say, replace the cheaper components first before deciding to go ahead and replace the whole turbo. 
 

As mentioned in this thread, the check valve diaphragm is a known point of failure on this engine and can fortunately be replaced for under £10 with an aftermarket part of eBay.

 

I hope this post can help anyone experiencing a similar issue as many threads I have come across describe near to the same scenario.

Update on this . 
my penny valve arm was worn on the actuator rod end 

I fitted a new turbo 

all good now