Hi folks,

I have a 2007 Mk II Focus with various problems, the current biggest one is a PATS  16 code.

I suspect it's a connection problem on the IC or PCM, while waiting for a new (hopefully working) ELM, could someone please post photo(s) and/or instructions on how to access the PCM on the MkII the least painfully? Found YT videos for MkI and MkIII, but not for MkII so far.

 

Any tips re the actual issue are very welcome as well:

Kid was using the car for a year, no major issues, only the DPF was throwing an error. Few weeks ago as he was driving home, he lost throttle, it was only idling. Towed him home, he got back throttle during it periodically. Car popped up a power steering error as well during it.

Parked on the driveway, was still starting, cleared the DTCs with a cheap scanner. Lifted the rear right to give me space to fill up the DPF fluid. Not starting since, gives me a PATS 16 code. 11.2V on the battery, so will charge that, but no joy with jump leads either. Scanner now can't connect to the ECU.

The engine bay fuse box is fairly corroded, last year I had to clean off the horn fuse as it wasn't working. The 3Amp PCM fuse was blown, cleaned the socket and replaced. Is there a way to remove the white plastic top from it to better expose the sockets to clean them, or any tips for effective cleaning? Also cleaned the power steering 10Amp fuse, didn't show power steering error since, but not sure how that'll play out when the engine starts again.

I'll do the 60Ohm test for the Canbus while waiting for the new ELM, downloaded Forscan in the meantime.

Both wheel wells are damaged, possibly a collision by the previous owner or something, but doesn't seem major, wasn't a problem for the past year, but might have exposed the PCM as it's in that area.

 

Thanks,

Tamas

Update: looks like the PATS 16 was caused by me: the large connector (C90 ?) in the engine fusebox was corroded as well, especially pin 1 which is the CANBUS. Cleaned the connectors, reseated a few times and I got it running.

During test drive the throttle went again, tapping the rev counter sorted it, which pointed to the IC as the original problem. Cleaned and reseated the connector of the IC, fingers crossed, so far I couldn't break it again by tapping on it, so hope it's not a bad solder just the connector wiggled out.