1 minute ago, unofix said:

the complexity and difficulty in the cost effectiveness of rebuilding the ecoboost 1.0 

I think that's the key point here. Various outfits have been flagged up on the forum as doing rebuilt ecoboosts, and @RayC333 has heroically done it himself several times. An assessment would have to be made as to the cost effectiveness of doing that versus swapping for one of the new or refurbished engine options which are available.

25 minutes ago, tazzman600 said:

 talking from their behind.

Bit out of order, I think.

Of course there are various factors involved and individual choice but I would caution that fitting a new or reconditioned engine is not a guarantee of future reliability.

Whilst acknowledging that any make of car engine can break down at any time, I've noted that many 1.0 Ecoboost owners have had second or even third engines fitted (in some cases directly by Ford) - only to fail again.

In my example I pursued the repairs myself - mainly trying to reduce the financial burden on my daughter and because the many  issues (after the original oil starvation) were incremental and I'd already invested time and money.

Not a great situation for anyone to be in. I wish Ford would do more for those affected.

16 hours ago, unofix said:

As far as this thread is concerned I will now leave it up to the OP to make their own minds up.

Same here, I would be at the Toyota or BMW dealer with my WBAC cheque in hand days ago.

Good luck

On 9/26/2023 at 6:29 AM, tazzman600 said:

Hi Dave. Oh what a dilemma. A question for you. How much do you love your car? That is, if there wasn't any issues with it whatsoever how long would you keep the car?

I'm gonna assume you Love the car and would keep it a few years.

Right then. If the engine sounds as it should then the belt has not slipped. If it had slipped a cog or two you'd hear it.

Get you mechanic to drop the oil and the sump and look at the condition of the gauze filter. IF the filter is clean then that's good. Get the belt changed as soon as.

If however the gauze filter is part full of crud then the belt has deteriorated but still intact. 

You say your car is kinda worth £7-8k. Ok. WBAC offer only £4k. So that's £4k under its worth. An engine rebuild for £3.5k is a no brainer and anyone who says an engine rebuild is useless is talking out of their behind. 

It's been a great car (until now!) and is fun to drive, but honestly I'm not attached to it or anything. I had a similar issue (as in a design flaw causing massive engine damage) with a 1.6 Golf TDi some years ago. I had it fixed at great cost, only to have to replace the EGR a month later due to the damage already done. Then other things started going wrong with it. So I've kind of lost faith in this one now - even were it to be successfully repaired.

I guess what I'm trying to figure out is the best thing to do financially. I don't really care about keeping the car but I'm not going to sell it to WBAC in the current condition. I have no idea what it's really worth, but based on recent sales of the same vehicle at similar mileage and condition (assuming working condition, I mean) it could be anywhere between £6k and £7.5k. So, do I take the gamble and spend around £3500 on a repair, then sell it for a conservative £6k, or do I cut my losses and sell it for scrap? If I could guarantee the repair would work it would be a no-brainer, but I'm unsure as to the chances of success.

Thanks to everyone for all your replies by the way. I'm keeping a keen eye on this thread but due to work and family commitments I can't always log in to reply in a timely manner.

I would "we buy any car" regardless. I've no morals so I would  get it gone. Then go buy something japanesse or Korean. 

5 minutes ago, iantt said:

I would "we buy any car" regardless. I've no morals so I would  get it gone.

I bet you've still got more morals than the private equity owners of WBAC and BCA, where it would probably end up anyway.😀

Just catching up on this thread... Sounds like you're caught between a rock and a hard place there Dave... 😞

OK, I'll throw my two penn'orth in here....

It sounds like you have a conscience and would be willing to "save" the car if it's viable... if that's the route you choose then I think the earlier post from someone about getting a mechanic to drop the sump and check the oil pickup gauze is your first starting point.

If absolute disaster has been avoided you then need to decide what to do about getting an objective view on moving forward to rectify the problem.

I see you are based in Merseyside. It might be worth your while to give North West Engines in Rochdale a call for further advice. They are Ecoboost specialists and carry out wet belt replacements, engine refurbs and reconditioned engines.

I took my 14 plate 1.0L Ecoboost there in May and they did the wet belt replacement plus all the seals and water pump etc. £850.00 all in and they did a great job plus they gave the car a once-over and gave me a few "advisories" to think about too. Very helpful and knowledgeable set of lads.

Here's the contact details for you:

North West Engines, Dane Mill, Bridgefield Street, Rochdale. OL11 4EY.

tel: 01204 859044

Good luck whatever you choose to do and let us know how you get on. 👍

22 hours ago, Acid House 1988 said:

might be worth your while to give North West Engines in Rochdale a call for further advice.

Well this turned out to be excellent advice. Thank you! After speaking to them and explaining everything they said it sounds like I might get away with a belt, oil and water pump change, which they'll do for £850. They've quoted me £50 for a diagnostic to find out. If not and a new engine is needed they've quoted me £1800 for a replacement fitted with a 3 month warranty or £2000 for a repair and refurb - also warrantied for 3 months.

At those prices it's a no-brainer as I can get the car repaired and sell it, with clear conscience, for more than it's cost to repair, which at this point is all I'm interested in.

The only problem is they're so booked up it might be a couple of months before they can get it boxed off, but I'm in the fortunate position of being able to borrow a family member's car in the meantime so I can live with that.

Thanks again. I'll let you know what the diagnostic throws up next week.

On 9/29/2023 at 9:01 PM, Acid House 1988 said:

I see you are based in Merseyside. It might be worth your while to give North West Engines in Rochdale a call for further advice. They are Ecoboost specialists and carry out wet belt replacements, engine refurbs and reconditioned engines.

I've seen a few positive mentions of them but (I think) you're the first member on here to report using them, so great to see you had a good experience and would recommend them. 

On 9/30/2023 at 7:23 PM, DoTheDonkeyKonga said:

Well this turned out to be excellent advice. Thank you! After speaking to them and explaining everything they said it sounds like I might get away with a belt, oil and water pump change, which they'll do for £850. They've quoted me £50 for a diagnostic to find out. If not and a new engine is needed they've quoted me £1800 for a replacement fitted with a 3 month warranty or £2000 for a repair and refurb - also warrantied for 3 months.

At those prices it's a no-brainer as I can get the car repaired and sell it, with clear conscience, for more than it's cost to repair, which at this point is all I'm interested in.

The only problem is they're so booked up it might be a couple of months before they can get it boxed off, but I'm in the fortunate position of being able to borrow a family member's car in the meantime so I can live with that.

Thanks again. I'll let you know what the diagnostic throws up next week.

Ah, that's good mate, at least you have a way forward now and you never know, things might just turn out OK.

Let us know how you get on ...

Is there a new?

What happened?

 

 

What is the cause of the issue?

Not proper oil?

Rare oil change/bad or less often maintenance/service.

How could this damage be avoided?

My opinion is to ask somewhere/someone else. If it could be fixed somehow.

 

Well the guys over at North West Engines have done a full diagnostic including cylinder compression tests. The verdict: no major or obvious engine damage. They’re going to replace the wet belt along with the water pump, filters and oil for £800. Hopefully the car should be fine following that. Unfortunately they can’t fit it in until December but they’re going to keep the car there and if they get any cancellations etc. they’ll fit it in sooner. Not a major problem as like I said I’m fortunate enough to have the use of a family member’s car in the meantime so I’m still mobile.

Thanks again for all the replies. I’ll let you know how I get on in the end.

It think it is the best decision.

Bravo. Let us a hope it will be fine.

 

On 10/15/2023 at 9:54 AM, DoTheDonkeyKonga said:

Well the guys over at North West Engines have done a full diagnostic including cylinder compression tests. The verdict: no major or obvious engine damage. They’re going to replace the wet belt along with the water pump, filters and oil for £800. Hopefully the car should be fine following that. Unfortunately they can’t fit it in until December but they’re going to keep the car there and if they get any cancellations etc. they’ll fit it in sooner. Not a major problem as like I said I’m fortunate enough to have the use of a family member’s car in the meantime so I’m still mobile.

Thanks again for all the replies. I’ll let you know how I get on in the end.

Glad you are getting sorted. That's great news on the diagnostics! 👌

Thought I'd update you all on the latest.

On further inspection the car also required a new rocker cover and the turbo was also damaged and so needed replacing. I okayed the extra work and they replaced the cover with a new one and the turbo with a reconditioned one.

Upon driving the car home everything appeared to be fine, apart from I noticed the gear shifts were a little less smooth than they used to be (it's an auto). They've never been what you'd call unnoticeable but they were definitely less obvious than they are now. Anyway, I didn't think much of it.

I had to drive the car all the way from Liverpool up to Carlisle for a family funeral the following day. The car appeared to run just fine until we were on the M6 about 35 miles shy of Carlisle when it suddenly went into Limp Mode  I had to risk driving it the rest of the way in Limp Mode otherwise we'd have missed the funeral.

I parked up and decided to deal with it later. When we came back to the car after the funeral it had come out of Limp Mode and appeared to be fine again. I spoke to North West Engines who advised if it had come out of Limp Mode after an engine restart then it was probably nothing serious and should be okay to drive home. I wasn't sure about that myself but having no other option I drove it all the way home from Carlisle and sure enough it was fine. No more Limp Mode and no more issues (aside from the rough gear changes which just seem to be a thing now).

However I've lost all confidence in it now and I've not driven it since. That was over a week ago. It's just sitting on my drive doing nothing. North West Engines said they'd take a look at it if I brought it back in but that requires taking yet another day off work and I'm so fed up of this car now that I can't really be bothered. I'm sorely tempted to cut my losses and let we buy any wreck dot com have it.

Anyone got any thoughts on what that whole Limp Mode saga might have been about?

Is there a local workshop you know? perhaps they will check what was that about with an obd reader. You could also check if you buy an obd reader and with torque pro application.

15 minutes ago, DoTheDonkeyKonga said:

Anyone got any thoughts on what that whole Limp Mode saga might have been about?

Well you could read the stored DTC and it would most likely tell you.

The auto gearbox just needs the adaptive learning reset and after a couple of hundred miles it should just return to normal. It's quite usual for them to be a bit 'clunky' after major work.

11 minutes ago, unofix said:

Well you could read the stored DTC and it would most likely tell you.

The auto gearbox just needs the adaptive learning reset and after a couple of hundred miles it should just return to normal. It's quite usual for them to be a bit 'clunky' after major work.

Y'know I hadn't even thought of that  Such an obvious thing to do but I'm so done with this car I think I've just repressed any urge to deal with it lol. I've got a proper ODBII cable and Forscan so I'll have a look what codes have been logged when I next get chance.

Hi Dave. It's understandable that you've fallen out with your car. You ain't arf gone through the mill with it and spent quite some hard earned. Sorry to learn of the death of someone known.

It's good you have Forscan. Check out stored codes and because your car ran fine on the way back from Carlisle then I'd make a note of whatever codes then clear them.

As for the gearbox. As Unofix stated. It needs to relearn. 

Your head is in a state because of the car and other things. I'd persevere because now you have a belting car and you won't get another as good.

One possible thing why limp mode came and went could be the car learning about the recon turbo, and basically coughing some phlegm up and having a wobbly before clearing itself. 

Just start to enjoy your car.

1 hour ago, DoTheDonkeyKonga said:

Anyone got any thoughts on what that whole Limp Mode saga might have been about?

Don't give up. I know how you feel - I've been there. 

Limp mode can be triggered by various faults, some relatively minor - don't assume it can't be easily sorted.

Follow the advice here, check the actual codes. You may well find limp mode is being caused by something unrelated to previous work done or is an easy fix.

Thanks for the encouragement everyone, I appreciate it. Being in the middle of a stressful house move (is there such a thing as a non-stressful house move?) and then that happening on the way to a funeral just tipped me a bit over the edge. I decided I was done with cars altogether and would just walk the length and breadth of the country from now on 

Anyway, I read the codes earlier and these two came up:

PCM P0128:00-68: Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)

and

PCM P0299:00-68: Turbocharger/Supercharger 'A' Underboost Condition

The first one happened at 08:29:58am and the second at 08:32:07am - which was around the time it went into Limp Mode.

Any ideas?

I'm going to give North West Engines a call in a minute and see what they say.

Underboost could be as simple as leaving a boost hose slightly loose after refitting.

(Or as serious as a dead turbo...)

13 minutes ago, DoTheDonkeyKonga said:

PCM P0128:00-68

After a major engine rebuild there could well be, or may well have been an airlock in the cooling system causing false readings.

15 minutes ago, DoTheDonkeyKonga said:

PCM P0299:00-68

I'd check all hoses to the turbo for leaks

1 hour ago, unofix said:

After a major engine rebuild there could well be, or may well have been an airlock in the cooling system causing false readings

Yeah, agree with that. Following any major work you can get all sorts of red herrings cropping up, and the engine and auto boxes can often run really quite rough until whatever self-learning (noting that the battery has been disconnected for a while) takes place. Reset any outstanding codes and then see what comes back.