Hi All,

My wife's 2016 Galaxy which we've had around 3 years has been a great car but in the last few days an intermittent fault has occurred.

During driving 3 warning lights are displayed one after the other and there is a slight hesitation in the power before it resumes back to normal, the warning lights are for the pre collission assist not available, ESC service required and parking pilot not available, these lights stay on for a short while then disappear, it can happen as soon as the car is being driven or after driving for 15-20 minutes, this is not the main issue however, after continuing to drive for a while the temperature needle moves quite quickly from its middle position to the hot position and a warning light comes on the dash regarding high temperature then the car goes into limp mode. Putting the heaters on full blast only releases mildly warm air and I've checked under the bonnet and the radiator cooling fan is working but the coolant reservoir is only warm to the touch and the hoses don't appear to be overly hot so I'm thinking this is not really an overheating issue but perhaps a sensor fault. Switching the car off and on again gets the car out of limp mode for a short while but the issue comes back.

I've called my breakdown cover provider who sent someone out who immediately said it's the instrument cluster and it's a common fault, he wouldn't plug a scanner in as he said that as no faults were showing at the time of his visit he was unable to get any readings.

From doing a bit of research it does appear that there is a problem with the solder joints on the instrument cluster on Fords but the symptoms seem to be different to mine so I'm hesitant to send it off for repair when it may be another issue altogether.

Does anyone have advice on this matter or has experienced something similar? I'd be grateful for some guidance.

1 hour ago, Shiny Head said:

he wouldn't plug a scanner in as he said that as no faults were showing at the time of his visit he was unable to get any readings.

Untrue. Most Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are stored in a log even if they are not present on the instrument cluster at the time of checking.

1 hour ago, Shiny Head said:

From doing a bit of research it does appear that there is a problem with the solder joints on the instrument cluster on Fords

Does not apply to a 2016 Galaxy. It affected Fiesta, Focus and some Mondeo but only up to 2013 after which the solder problem was resolved.

Get yourself FORScan on a windows laptop and a vLinker cable. Then you (unlike your mechanic) will be able to read all of the DTC's.

The fault is typical of an ageing battery with a poor state of charge. When did you last fit a new car battery ?

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

Thanks Unofix for your reply.

The battery was replaced just over a year ago so I don't think it's that and I agree regarding the solder issue on older fords, I've not been able to find any instances of anyone complaining about this issue on newer fords.

One of my friends plugged in his obd scanner and managed to get some fault codes off it contrary to the breakdown guy who just fobbed me off.

The following codes were displayed:

P2000 [0x2000]
Nitrogen oxides (NOx) trap, bank 1 - efficiency below threshold
Status: Pending
----------------------------
U0402(00) [0xC40200] Archive (inactive)
Invalid data received - transmission control module (TCM)
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P2000(00) [0x200000]
Nitrogen oxides (NOx) trap, bank 1 - efficiency below threshold
Status: Pending, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P0217(68) [0x021768]
Engine over temperature condition
Engine Overtemp Condition
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
U0415(00) [0xC41500] Archive (inactive)
Invalid data received - anti-lock brake system (ABS) control module
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear
----------------------------
P1335(99) [0x133599] Archive (inactive)
Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
EGR POSITION SENSOR A MINIMUM / MAXIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P061B(F1) [0x061BF1] Archive (inactive)
Engine control module (ECM), torque calculation - performance problem
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
----------------------------
P0132(00) [0x013200] Archive (inactive)
Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - high voltage
Heated O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P0138(00) [0x013800] Archive (inactive)
Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1 - high voltage
Heated O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
============================
Engine control unitEngine control unit
DTCs: 271
----------------------------
U0402(00) [0xC40200] Archive (inactive)
Invalid data received - transmission control module (TCM)
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P2000(00) [0x200000]
Nitrogen oxides (NOx) trap, bank 1 - efficiency below threshold
Status: Pending, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P0217(68) [0x021768]
Engine over temperature condition
Engine Overtemp Condition
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
U0415(00) [0xC41500] Archive (inactive)
Invalid data received - anti-lock brake system (ABS) control module
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear
----------------------------
P1335(99) [0x133599] Archive (inactive)
Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
EGR POSITION SENSOR A MINIMUM / MAXIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P061B(F1) [0x061BF1] Archive (inactive)
Engine control module (ECM), torque calculation - performance problem
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
----------------------------
P0132(00) [0x013200] Archive (inactive)
Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - high voltage
Heated O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P0138(00) [0x013800] Archive (inactive)
Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1 - high voltage
Heated O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
----------------------------
P2279(00) [0x2279

 

I drove the car again last night to see if the problem would reappear and the warning lights for the ESC etc have not reappeared but the temperature warning one did when the temperature gauge needle moved towards the hot side and again the car became very sluggish and then went into limp mode, the engine management light has not come on at any point, again I switched off, waited for it to cool again and restarted to complete my journey.

My friend seems to think the thermostat is the issue as the expansion tank doesn't get hot and only one of the hoses seems to be on the hot side indicating that water is not circulation so its possibly a thermostat that's stuck in the closed position.

I'm going to take it to a local garage in the next couple of days but I'm worried about the costs escalation and don't want to be their guinea pig where they try one thing and then the next etc until it's fixed but all at my expense and I certainly can't afford main dealer prices so won't be taking it to Ford.

If anyone can offer any suggestions in the meantime then I'd be very happy to receive your advice/comments. 

 

3 hours ago, Shiny Head said:

so its possibly a thermostat that's stuck in the closed position.

No, otherwise your temperature gauge would be off the map and the pointer trying get past the end stop.

You need proper diagnostics done with either Ford equipment which only the Ford dealer has, or you need to use FORScan. All those DTC's need cleared from memory, most of them are ancient history and are only confusing the situation. Also codes which begin "Ux xxx"  are in themselves not an actual fault only that they are indicating a communication error on one of the Canbus systems.

x

6 hours ago, unofix said:

No, otherwise your temperature gauge would be off the map and the pointer trying get past the end stop.

You need proper diagnostics done with either Ford equipment which only the Ford dealer has, or you need to use FORScan. All those DTC's need cleared from memory, most of them are ancient history and are only confusing the situation. Also codes which begin "Ux xxx"  are in themselves not an actual fault only that they are indicating a communication error on one of the Canbus systems.

The DTC's were cleared yesterday and your comment regarding the temperature gauge needle makes sense. After a bit of you tubing I found a video which shows a very easy way of checking whether overheating is caused by the water pump or not:

 

I've followed the instructions and there is no water coming out of the hose which according to the video means that the water pump impeller is broken and not pumping the water around as it should so now I'm looking at a new water pump/timing belt kit.

Next question is do I buy the Ford parts or does anyone have a recommendation for a quality alternative?

I would always recommend buying the genuine Ford parts, but sometimes it simply comes down to what you can afford.

I doubt the water pump has failed, more likely that there is an air lock in the system as they are meant to be filled under vacuum conditions if the system has been drained for any reason. Not many people realise or have the equipment to refill the system using a vacuum. There is also the coolant to be considered. Is it a true 50/50 mix of Ford coolant and water?

I've decided to go ahead with the timing belt and water pump change, the car is 6 years old with 110k on the clock so it won't be a total waste if it doesn't resolve the overheating. I managed to get a good deal on the kit from ebay for £95 with a 20% discount offer currently running. Its branded Gates who I understand is a well respected brand and supply many OEM car makers.

I'm currently awaiting delivery and will be on the hunt for a local garage/mechanic that will fit it.

I'll update this post once the kit has been fitted with hopefully some good news for me.

2 hours ago, Shiny Head said:

I managed to get a good deal on the kit from ebay for £95 with a 20% discount offer currently running.

You'll also need a new crankshaft pulley bolt if that's not included in the kit. Expect it to cost something like £10 from Ford.

Presumably the kit includes belt + tensioner + idler + water pump?

2 hours ago, Shiny Head said:

I'm currently awaiting delivery and will be on the hunt for a local garage/mechanic that will fit it.

I'd be happy to do it for you. We could perhaps work something out to save you a little money. I'm not certain what garages would charge, but probably several hours at a labour rate of something like £75 per hour (the current average I believe). I'm happy enough to undercut that, and I'm happy to agree a fixed price.

I'd do it in my driveway as a DIY type project. I could probably get it done within a single day if I started early enough and no problems crop up.

I did a little research into exactly what would be involved for a Mk4 Galaxy. I don't know what specific engine yours has of course, but I could find nothing of much use on youtube for Mk4 Galaxys at all. I did find video for Mk5 Mondeo's though, and I'm assuming it's the same as for those, with a (dry) belt connecting the crank and a single cam sprocket and a small chain connecting the two cams. If so it looks perfectly straight forward, less work than my Focus; it looks like these use the same flywheel lock tool I've already got, and 8mm drill bits or bolts can be used as the two timing pins, so the only thing I'd need is the torque specs which I expect can be obtained from haynes autofix (for £26).

On 10/18/2023 at 1:31 AM, rd457 said:

You'll also need a new crankshaft pulley bolt if that's not included in the kit. Expect it to cost something like £10 from Ford.

Presumably the kit includes belt + tensioner + idler + water pump?

The kit arrived today and includes all of the above plus a new pulley bolt.

On 10/18/2023 at 1:31 AM, rd457 said:

I'd be happy to do it for you. We could perhaps work something out to save you a little money. I'm not certain what garages would charge, but probably several hours at a labour rate of something like £75 per hour (the current average I believe). I'm happy enough to undercut that, and I'm happy to agree a fixed price.

I'd do it in my driveway as a DIY type project. I could probably get it done within a single day if I started early enough and no problems crop up.

I did a little research into exactly what would be involved for a Mk4 Galaxy. I don't know what specific engine yours has of course, but I could find nothing of much use on youtube for Mk4 Galaxys at all. I did find video for Mk5 Mondeo's though, and I'm assuming it's the same as for those, with a (dry) belt connecting the crank and a single cam sprocket and a small chain connecting the two cams. If so it looks perfectly straight forward, less work than my Focus; it looks like these use the same flywheel lock tool I've already got, and 8mm drill bits or bolts can be used as the two timing pins, so the only thing I'd need is the torque specs which I expect can be obtained from haynes autofix (for £26).

Thank you for the kind offer, however I note from your profile that you're in Shropshire and I doubt I'd make it to you with the car in one piece.

I did manage to find a couple of local garages that are happy to do the work and it's now booked in for Wednesday. 

I'll post on here when I've had the car back and report on whether it was indeed the water pump at fault.

Regarding my initial post about the warning lights appearing before the overheating issue, it looks like this was just coincidental and the warnings being thrown up are related to a wheel sensor playing up so that'll be next on the list but that is a very easy fix.

All the best.

 

Hi All,

Just an update regarding my issue. I now have the Galaxy back and it's no longer overheating.

The water pump had indeed failed and was causing the overheating. The mechanic kept the parts he removed and showed me the pump on which the impeller was not being turned when the cog behind it was turning. Total cost including labour, antifreeze and parts came to just under £300 (This includes the auxiliary drive belt as it made sense to change it as the old one was being removed anyway).

Thanks to those that offered their advice and wisdom and I hope my experience may help others with a similar issue.

 

All the Best.

Mabs