Hi all a little help if possible I've just replaced the engine in my transit courier and now need to bleed the clutch.  I have the online easy manuals workshop manual but seems about as much use as a chocolate tea pot, it shows bleed nipple on the top of the box but I can't find anything the matches the image only thing I see that resembles a bleed nipple is a rubber plug on top of the plastic tube as it enters the bell housing but no bleed nut.  Does anyone have any idea how to bleed the clutch, all replies much appreciated.

Not an issue any more all sorted.

2 minutes ago, Raynsranger said:

Not an issue any more all sorted.

That's good 👍 😀

Did you find a way to bleed the clutch ? It would be good to share how you fixed it for others who might have the same problem.

It was simple watched a you tube video from India on bleeding a Ford ranger clutch and got the gist, where the pipe enters the gearbox there are 2 retaining clips adjacent to the bleed nipple, process is press the clutch down hold and then pull the clip up nearest the nipple the pipe pops out a little but does not fully as the second clip retains it to release the air, slide the clip back down and push the pipe back then repeat until pedal feels right

Question on clutch fluid bleed / flush. Car (1.8 TDCI 2008 Focus) has gearbox off and about to install new clutch, flywheel, CSC, and a load of other new gubbins to give the old carthorse another decade of life ...

I think it makes sense to start off the new clutch and CSC with new clutch fluid. I have ample supply of Ford fluid. In the situation the car is in, front wheels off, standing on axles, gearbox off, and working solo, I think the only realistic option in this situation is gravity bleed. Nothing is explained in the Haynes manual on the gravity method (only the bleeder / pedal alternating method). 

a) Is gravity bleeding effective on this model car (as Haynes doesn't mention it)?

b) Can I use the gravity method in the situation the car is now in? And where is the nipple to open to use this method located?

c) Should I just leave the old clutch fluid in place until the gearbox with new clutch is reinstalled, and do the clutch flush afterwards?

Thanks for any guidance to decide the best next step on the above (and finish rebuilding driveshafts, tarting up the subframe and fitting the new CSC meantime).