The driver's window switch within this 2-switch assembly is broken. (image below)

 

This is the variant of switch assembly suited to vehicles with manual rear windows, hence two window switches only.

 

7zap's code for this part is 14529B (below)

 

This seems to be a rather rare part!?

1. There is no hyperlink to click on when hovering over the blue coloured part number 14529B in 7zap (but there are links for the single-switch and 4-switch cousins).

2. Ebay UK has dozens of the single-switch & the 4-switch assemblies for sale, with the latter priced as low as GBP 22.00 for a working salvaged part. But for the 2-switch variant (electric windows for the front only) there are very few for sale and the price is over GBP 60.00 for 'used' and up to GBP 125.00 for a new genuine Ford part.

What am I missing here? Why so many cheap 4-switch assemblies and near-zero availability for the 2-switch? Guessing most vehicles left the factories fitted with elec. windows all round....

I've already examined the broken 2-switch assembly which I have removed from the vehicle to see if just the faulty driver's window switch could be swapped out but no, it appears to be a sealed unit which needs replacing as a whole.

I was wondering and hoping that perhaps the 4-switch variant, of which there are many cheaply available, could be fitted instead?

Figuring if the broken 2-switch assembly has the same physical dimensions as the 4-switch variant, then a 4-switch would fit in the door.... but would the existing 6-pin plug on the wiring harness for the front windows fit the socket of the 4-switch assembly and would the pins be wired correctly. No matter if the switches for the rear windows are "dummies", just there for show, if the front ones work!

Thanks once again for any input from members.  

 

 

 

 

 

9 minutes ago, keepingitontheroad said:

The driver's window switch within this 2-switch assembly is broken. (image below)

 

This is the variant of switch assembly suited to vehicles with manual rear windows, hence two window switches only.

 

7zap's code for this part is 14529B (below)

 

This seems to be a rather rare part!?

1. There is no hyperlink to click on when hovering over the blue coloured part number 14529B in 7zap (but there are links for the single-switch and 4-switch cousins).

2. Ebay UK has dozens of the single-switch & the 4-switch assemblies for sale, with the latter priced as low as GBP 22.00 for a working salvaged part. But for the 2-switch variant (electric windows for the front only) there are very few for sale and the price is over GBP 60.00 for 'used' and up to GBP 125.00 for a new genuine Ford part.

What am I missing here? Why so many cheap 4-switch assemblies and near-zero availability for the 2-switch? Guessing most vehicles left the factories fitted with elec. windows all round....

I've already examined the broken 2-switch assembly which I have removed from the vehicle to see if just the faulty driver's window switch could be swapped out but no, it appears to be a sealed unit which needs replacing as a whole.

I was wondering and hoping that perhaps the 4-switch variant, of which there are many cheaply available, could be fitted instead?

Figuring if the broken 2-switch assembly has the same physical dimensions as the 4-switch variant, then a 4-switch would fit in the door.... but would the existing 6-pin plug on the wiring harness for the front windows fit the socket of the 4-switch assembly and would the pins be wired correctly. No matter if the switches for the rear windows are "dummies", just there for show, if the front ones work!

Thanks once again for any input from members.  

 

 

 

 

 

Ahhh.... of course a 4-switch assembly will not fit in the door handle which is designed for a 2-switch...as the door handle 'cut-out' is different..... (image below taken prior to removal of switch assy.)

 

How about swapping out the entire door handle for a salvaged 4-switch version? Any issues with wiring expected? Would it work?

 

 

 

The underside of this 4-switch assy. as sold on ebay (photo) looks completely different.......

 

...to that of the 2-switch I have here (photo) ... plug sockets/wiring are nothing alike.

 

 

 

Guess I have answered my own question. The parts cannot be substituted by the looks of it.

 

Well, what a coincidence and perhaps a stroke of good karma.... amazingly just discovered one in Ebay (swear it wasn't there yesterday) .....seek and ye shall find.

Thanks to the Ebayer  asm.auto.recycling.ltd (44114)

 

** Request for advice **

About the driver's door master window controller assembly : in particular, the front-right electric window switch .

That switch as far as I am aware has 1 "position/stage" to move the window up (that's pulling up on the switch, and it makes a micro-switch "ticking" sound),

but the same switch may have TWO downward positions/stages , with or without the "tick" sound. Is this correct or false?

Very keen to find out from any forum member whether in your car the switch I describe operates in the same or a different way. 

Thing is, the driver's window stopped working when I picked the car up from a local garage after it had some work done on it elsewhere on the car. The mechanic stated that the switch didn't work - I said OK but it did work when I dropped the car off at the garage - he said sorry but it's definitely a bad switch. So I've been shopping for a new switch assembly following his advice.

But could it actually be some other component of the window system such as the motor or a controller? 

Many thanks for any light that anyone here can shed on this mystery.

A reply from outside this forum to the same question:

Pretty annoying being told by the mechanic at the garage that is was "definitely" the switch.......

 

Quite a lot going on in this thread.  

There is a big difference between the 2-window switch pack and the 4-window switch pack.

4-windows have one touch up & down, plus global closing.  2-windows only have one-touch down and only on the drivers side.  This also means the GEM & door modules are different for the 4-window switch pack.  So ultimately, you can't just plug one of those straight into 2 window car.

The fuse is the first thing I'd check for a single window failed.  I assume nothing else on that door has failed (mirror, speaker, lock, etc) which rules out the door module. 

It could also be a failed motor, or a failed regulator.  We would need the mechanic to tell us exactly how he came to the conclusion that it was 'definitely' the switch.

On 1/19/2024 at 1:52 PM, TomsFocus said:

Quite a lot going on in this thread.  

There is a big difference between the 2-window switch pack and the 4-window switch pack.

4-windows have one touch up & down, plus global closing.  2-windows only have one-touch down and only on the drivers side.  This also means the GEM & door modules are different for the 4-window switch pack.  So ultimately, you can't just plug one of those straight into 2 window car.

The fuse is the first thing I'd check for a single window failed.  I assume nothing else on that door has failed (mirror, speaker, lock, etc) which rules out the door module. 

It could also be a failed motor, or a failed regulator.  We would need the mechanic to tell us exactly how he came to the conclusion that it was 'definitely' the switch.

Thank you, Tom.

Appreciate the advice. Will be taking a fresh look at this fault tomorrow starting with the fuses as you suggest. Cheers!

After checking all of the fuses which appeared to pertain in some way to the front driver's door, and finding that none of them had blown, the driver's window suddenly began to operate.

Compared to the passenger's front window however, the sound of the driver's window mechanism (either motor or regulator) was much more "course/loud". 

Four or five days later, o/s front window was again stuck, and again in the fully-closed position, and now will again not go down.

Fault finding process of elimination:

1. Door module ruled out due to electric driver's rear view mirror adjusting fine via switch pack controls.

2. Fuses rules out as none are blown.

3. Regulator (I guess) ruled out as it was able to fully lower and lift the window for a few days, albeit with an "unhealthy sound" - seeming as if the motor was labouring.

4. Suspect corrosion of internal mechanism of window motor. Reference this youtube video (below)

 

Why though?

I suspect that it is because of the fact that the cabin gets very humid due to a long-term water ingress from a leak at the o/s top of the tailgate area: but not from the tailgate hinge mounting however, as I have already re-sealed that area by masking it off and spraying this rubbery material designed to fix leaks in guttering (photo below)....

 

Water has to be coming in from underneath the o/s roof rail trim (presumably a panel join under there or maybe a roof rail mounting?) [photo below]- but how to remove the roof rail to be able to seal any breaks in the sealant? 

 

In drizzle or rain, water can be seen to enter the boot area of this estate car via a vent just inside the tailgate inside of the cabin on the off-side. [photo below].

 

No doubt also the cavities left and right at the very base of the vehicle at the back near the bumper are full of old water too, adding to the humidity and condensation.

Edited January 28, 20242 yr by keepingitontheroad
add info

In this video - youtuber shows how he gained access to the estate body roof rail nuts/bolts to lift the rear most section enabling him to seal the crappy Ford panel join.

On 1/28/2024 at 10:47 AM, keepingitontheroad said:

Removal, inspection, and cleaning of inside of motor assy fixed it. Job done.

 

 

 

After checking all of the fuses which appeared to pertain in some way to the front driver's door, and finding that none of them had blown, the driver's window suddenly began to operate.

Compared to the passenger's front window however, the sound of the driver's window mechanism (either motor or regulator) was much more "course/loud". 

Four or five days later, o/s front window was again stuck, and again in the fully-closed position, and now will again not go down.

Fault finding process of elimination:

1. Door module ruled out due to electric driver's rear view mirror adjusting fine via switch pack controls.

2. Fuses rules out as none are blown.

3. Regulator (I guess) ruled out as it was able to fully lower and lift the window for a few days, albeit with an "unhealthy sound" - seeming as if the motor was labouring.

4. Suspect corrosion of internal mechanism of window motor. Reference this youtube video (below)

 

Why though?

I suspect that it is because of the fact that the cabin gets very humid due to a long-term water ingress from a leak at the o/s top of the tailgate area: but not from the tailgate hinge mounting however, as I have already re-sealed that area by masking it off and spraying this rubbery material designed to fix leaks in guttering (photo below)....

 

Water has to be coming in from underneath the o/s roof rail trim (presumably a panel join under there or maybe a roof rail mounting?) [photo below]- but how to remove the roof rail to be able to seal any breaks in the sealant? 

 

In drizzle or rain, water can be seen to enter the boot area of this estate car via a vent just inside the tailgate inside of the cabin on the off-side. [photo below].

 

No doubt also the cavities left and right at the very base of the vehicle at the back near the bumper are full of old water too, adding to the humidity and condensation.

 

The Mk3 2 switch unit looks identical to a 2 switch unit from a Mk2. 

A lot more Mk2s only had electric front windows.

2 switch units from Mk2s will be a lot more common.