Hi all

Just wondering if anyone has some info on Fiesta MK5 rear hub nuts.  I’m just about to embark on changing the rear wheel bearings etc and have found what I think are a couple of oddities.

1/

As I understand it, the nuts for this model have been the same for years.  They have been a horrible design where there are multiple narrow nuts stacked in a plate steel hexagon cage that presumably bite against each other when the nut is tightened in order to lock it.  I’ve just bought a couple of genuine Ford nuts (Ford ref: F1943919 on the invoice) from a Ford dealer and found they are different as they are a solid one piece nut with a captive washer (see pics – black one is old, silver one is new).  Does anyone recognise these as being the correct part?

2/

This sounds kind of strange, but I’m just about to remove the first hub nut that I put on with a 30mm socket and found that when using the same very new socket, it’s not as tight as I remember when it was on this same nut before.  Anyone have experience of these 30mm nuts feeling loose with a 30mm socket?  These nuts are torqued up pretty tight, so I’m a bit apprehensive about rounding it off.  Anyone used a slightl smaller than 30mm socket on these before?

Cheers

I think there's a typo in that part number.  The horrible stacked nuts are still supplied under the old number on eBay.

Genuine Ford Fiesta MK5 MK6 Rear Hub Retaining Wheel Nut 1949319 | eBay

The nut cage does move a bit when tightened, so that could explain the loose feeling.  You could try wrapping a piece of tin foil around the nut to take up any slack to reduce the risk or rounding.  I also preferred to use a long bar with gentle even pressure on these, impact wrench is likely to damage them.

Tom, cheers.  Yes that was my stupid typo.  You are correct, in saying that it’s 1949319 as written on the invoice.

Also thanks for confirming that the nut does have a loose feeling - good tip using tin foil, cheers I’ll take your advice.  I have just un-nipped them both so not holding my breath anymore.  Just realised I didn’t attach the pictures (attached).

I'm just wondering if I’ve been given the right nuts now, i.e. are they now issuing the silver ones in the ebay picture rather than the cage nuts.
I found these Googling :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353945198390 NEW FORD FOCUS MK1 REAR HUB RETAINING WHEEL NUT FU7J-3B477-AA 1949319 ORIGINAL

These look just like what I’ve been sold, but they are advertised as being for the Focus MK1 so I’m a bit confused.

 

I'm afraid I don't know whether some dealers are now supplying the solid nuts in place of the stacked nuts myself.  Hopefully someone else will know.

I have a Mk1 Ford Puma, which I believe has similar suspension to the Fiesta MkV.

SKF (as well as some other manufacturers) changed from the "multi-washer" to the one-piece nut some time ago.

The "multi-washer" nut has a torque setting of 235 Nm, whereas the one-piece nut is 110 Nm + 60 degrees.

 

 

Rear NUT REPLACEMENT Torque.pdf

Yog, you hero, what a top notch bit of info.  Thanks for the PDF, I feel a bit more a peace with the world now I’ve seen it.  So glad Ford got shot of that horrible cage nut, the new one looks so much more like proper engineering.  Not quite sure what form of locking technique the new one incorporates but I trust is it effective.  Hmm, torque it to 110Nm then take it 60 degrees beyond.  Sounds interesting especially as a lot of non-pro DIY people don’t have a torque wrench capable of 235Nm.

As an aside, I also got verification from the mechanics at the dealership I bought the nuts from that they are indeed what is now issued by Ford for this model.

 

Thought I’d follow up on using the new nuts.  I haven’t got a Torque Angle Gauge or an angle capable wrench (£££), so thought I’d improvise as this isn’t an RAF typhoon.  I torqued the nut up to 110 Nm as per YOG’s pdf with a decent (not deep) 30mm socket that was a nice fit.  Then I used the same socket on a breaker bar (22” I think).

To do the angle part, I downloaded a free graphic of a protractor.  I sized it on the PC so I could print it and stick it to the hub with double sided sticky tape (see photos).

I put the handbrake on firmly to stop the drum being accidentally rotated, then put the socket on the nut and the bar on the socket at an angle that I could give it some welly (downwards).  I set the paper protractor (affixed well to the drum) to “0” degrees when lined up with the top of the bar then tightened the nut until the top or the bar met the 60 degree mark.

It took some pushing, but I only used my right arm to push the bar down with my upper body weight really leaning on it (and I’m not Arnie).  Thought I’d describe this, because of how it contrasts with my local garage’s method of doing it which is standing on the end of the breaker bar until it stops.  Honestly, I witnessed this being done and was thinking flip me, this is only a 20mm dia thread, but hey.  I’m now a bit less surprised that the cage nuts that came off for this job were as deformed as they were.

Because I’m paranoid, I marked the corners of the nuts with a centre punch mark to see if they move in use.  Pretty unlikely I know, but I’ll let you know if the wheels fall off : - )  I’ve attached the graphic for anyone interested.  You’ll need to print it to A4 and cut along the lines that fit around the stepped part of the drum that the 4 studs are screwed into.  I’m sure other members might think this is the less preferred way of doing it, so please don’t do it unless you feel confident as I take no responsibility for the outcome.  Thanks again for your help on this chaps.  Happy days…

Quick update.  Regarding this being an effective way of torquing these nuts, it seems it is.  I promised to let it be known if the wheels fell off and they haven't, after a year of daily driving.

2 minutes ago, Marineboy said:

let it be known if the wheels fell off and they haven't,

That's very disappointing. Never mind better luck next time 🤣

Thank you confirming that this method works.

Cheers mate, yeah, I'll try harder in future. 😂

Good Job @Marineboy! and for the 290Nm (Al-Ko caravan hubs) I use my measly 70kg (687N) on a 42 cm bar (or use a digital luggage scale on an even longer tube)
Again, the wheels haven't fallen off yet!

There's usually a way!

1 hour ago, Shearers said:

digital luggage scale on an even longer tube

I doff my cap to your use of science, moment, theory and pluck sir.  I also stand by the motto, if you don't graunch the thread, stress the shank or recreationally invite the wheels to fall off, you will have a less stressful life.