Hi all,

I have a 59 Mk2.5 Focus 1.8 Zetec.

Driving home last night, I got the battery warning light unexpectedly. Then, at traffic lights I got a power steering failure warning, the steering lasted for a while and then assistance stopped.

I got home. Parked up, switched off. Tried to switch on again and couldn't get it started. 

Half an hour later, it started fine and, looking with the engine cover off, I can see two belts moving fine.

I let it sit until cold, took my multimeter and got a reading of 11.5v off the battery. Fired the engine up and still have the same 11.5v at the terminals.

All of which point to the alternator being knackered. 

Is there anything which I am not thinking of or does it look like a replacement alternator?

Is alternator replacement possible for a hobbyist mechanic or does it require specialist tools beyond a socket set?

Hi Michael. Could well be an alternator on its way out. But how old is the battery in your car? Try giving it a full charge and see how things go for a day or three. Since you have a multimeter measure the voltage after you've fully charged the battery. Measure it again 24 hours later. Measure again 24 hours after that. If you see the voltage dropping each time then probably your alternator is shot.

As for fitting one yourself I can't really comment. It all depends where in the engine bay it is and how accessible the bolts are and how easy or difficult for it to come out.

As for buying an alternator buy from a reputable source because there are tons of cheap nasty ones which fail within months. Find a specialist near you and get advice and a quote.

1 hour ago, Londondriver said:

I let it sit until cold, took my multimeter and got a reading of 11.5v off the battery. Fired the engine up and still have the same 11.5v at the terminals.

All of which point to the alternator being knackered. 

Is there anything which I am not thinking of or does it look like a replacement alternator?

Is alternator replacement possible for a hobbyist mechanic or does it require specialist tools beyond a socket set?

Hi Michael it dose seem very probable that your alternator has or is failing. It is worth checking the small connector on the alternator (two or three wires) to make sure it hasn't corroded or one of the small wires hasn't broken.

If you are a confident DIY mechanic with a socket set and a selection of spanners then you should be capable of replacing the alternator. Just remember DISCONNECT the battery before you begin work.

From the experience with the alternator failing on my ST, and the Ford replacement then failing only 2 months later it definitely sounds like the alternator has failed. 
 

If you’re not getting approx 14V on the battery with the engine running you can double check by measuring voltage directly off the alternator (under the big rubber cover) to confirm it’s not a wiring issue. You can also do some continuity checks that the negative connection to the battery is giving zero ohms to the chassis, alternator body etc. 
 

The alternator can do smart charging things, controlled by the wiring with the small plug that connects to the alternator. With this unplugged the alternator should default to 14V output. 
 

So if you’re not getting 14V or so even at the direct connection off the alternator and removing the small connector makes no difference then that all points to the alternator failing. 

Thanks guys. Plenty to think about. I am fast losing confidence. The car was only a stopgap over Covid and, to be fair, I am almost 4 years in and it hasn't given me much trouble at all.

I have a Lidl Ultimate Speed battery charger like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lidl-Motorcycle-motorcycle-batteries-1-2-120Ah/dp/B08N57KZ2Z/ and am currently charging the battery, having taken it from the car and into my living room.

I took it off the charger, tested it with the multimeter and it read 12.6 initially but is dropping by .1 every few seconds, down to 12.0. That doesn't sound right to me and points to a dud battery.

The car is due its MoT on Friday and I have just put three new tyres on, changed some bulbs. We buy any car are quoting £1,200 for it with full MoT. I have just spent £240. I am worried about buying a battery for £80, that not working, then paying a mechanic £300 in parts, labour and VAT to change the alternator all in a car that might not even get through the MoT. Throwing good money after bad.

I didn't expect the battery to read 12.6v so soon after going onto that charger, also didn't expect to see the output drop in front of my eyes like that.

 

Hi again Michael. So WBAC would offer £1,200 for your car with a full MOT? That would be for a mint conditioner one. Any blemishes on your car would reduce their offer by hundreds. With the car just being a stop gap, as you put it, consider then selling it for either spares or repairs or scrap it. 

You've spent £240 already. There's a possibility of another £380 on top of that.

Thing is spending on a new battery and alternator would that then make the car a good one for a few years or is it kind of nearing it's shelf life?

Just weighing the pros and cons. Food for thought so to speak. 

34 minutes ago, tazzman600 said:

Hi again Michael. So WBAC would offer £1,200 for your car with a full MOT? That would be for a mint conditioner one. Any blemishes on your car would reduce their offer by hundreds. With the car just being a stop gap, as you put it, consider then selling it for either spares or repairs or scrap it. 

You've spent £240 already. There's a possibility of another £380 on top of that.

Thing is spending on a new battery and alternator would that then make the car a good one for a few years or is it kind of nearing it's shelf life?

Just weighing the pros and cons. Food for thought so to speak. 

Yeah, I am sure WBAC would shaft me when it came to bring it to them.

I previously used to drive about 30 miles to and from work every day, then driving about town as well. I now work 100% from home and do about 200 miles per month.

I had a BMW 225xe on lease, costing £300 a month as we went into Covid and the lease expired so I sent it back as the kids weren't going to school, I wasn't going to work. As my office was closed, I bought the Focus for £2k, thinking that if I got six months out of it, I would have saved my lease payment and maybe have a car at the end. Here we are 43 months later. If I got 0 for it, it would have cost me £46/month for the car. And it has been a lovely car to own and tinker with.

There are a few other issues, I have always felt that there is a problem with the front diff, I get a grinding noise when one wheel is turning more quickly than the other. Now, I seem to have some form of a noise from the gearbox.

So, like I said, good money after bad. Fix the alternator, then move on to fixing the gearbox. All on a car worth a grand.

I am thinking of selling up and getting a Mondeo estate.

2 hours ago, troy45 said:

From the experience with the alternator failing on my ST, and the Ford replacement then failing only 2 months later it definitely sounds like the alternator has failed. 
 

If you’re not getting approx 14V on the battery with the engine running you can double check by measuring voltage directly off the alternator (under the big rubber cover) to confirm it’s not a wiring issue. You can also do some continuity checks that the negative connection to the battery is giving zero ohms to the chassis, alternator body etc. 
 

The alternator can do smart charging things, controlled by the wiring with the small plug that connects to the alternator. With this unplugged the alternator should default to 14V output. 
 

So if you’re not getting 14V or so even at the direct connection off the alternator and removing the small connector makes no difference then that all points to the alternator failing. 

I think, although it could just be paranoia, that there is a different sound to the engine than there was before. Which, again, would point towards the alternator being at fault and not the battery.

I charged the battery up with the external charger, took the car out. Within 3 minutes, the battery warning light is on. After 10 the ABS, ESP lights come on. Then the power steering failure warning comes on to the dot matrix.

Drove it home, turned it off, tried to start it. Absolutely nothing in the battery to turn it over. All lights die when the starter motor tries to turn the engine.

I went through similar - I’d charged up the battery and then the car ran ok briefly which led me to replace the battery but it wasn’t the root cause. You can also use the test mode on the dash to monitor battery voltage while car is running, I could see from that there was no charging going on plus you could see the voltage drop slowly and more so when operating the power steering. 

That’s included in the fun and games I had once the second alternator failed, and having it tested by a supposed expert who said it was ok, when in fact it wasn’t - would run ok for a minute or 2 then throw up a battery light again. Add in this was in the middle of a snowy winter with people grounded by covid etc made it hard to get help looking at it 🙄

 

18 minutes ago, troy45 said:

I went through similar - I’d charged up the battery and then the car ran ok briefly which led me to replace the battery but it wasn’t the root cause. You can also use the test mode on the dash to monitor battery voltage while car is running, I could see from that there was no charging going on plus you could see the voltage drop slowly and more so when operating the power steering. 

That’s included in the fun and games I had once the second alternator failed, and having it tested by a supposed expert who said it was ok, when in fact it wasn’t - would run ok for a minute or 2 then throw up a battery light again. Add in this was in the middle of a snowy winter with people grounded by covid etc made it hard to get help looking at it 🙄

 

I have found a Ford specialist who says he will install an alternator for £70 if I bring one to him. GSF and Eurocarparts are doing them for £150. So £220 to get the job done.

That's a ruddy good price Michael. To compare. My last cars alternator packed in Big Time so i had no choice really but to get it to the dealer to do. It was an older Lexus and the cost was £835. Yes £835 but I did get a loan of a brand new hybrid for 4 days free of charge, pardon the pun.

Maybe get the alternator done and then part ex it sharpish for the mondeo. Which mondeo you thinking of?

New alternator fitted. I got the alternator and a belt for £165 from GSF and then a local mechanic charged me £100 to fit.

He said it was a tough job to get the belt stretched properly.

Getting back into the car, the steering seems lighter, I think it wasn't getting enough voltage. 

Having just spent £265, plus an extra £30 on taxis getting about, I am thinking of hanging on to it for a while longer yet!

Thanks for all your input everyone.

Well that's a good result Michael. Yes keep it for as long as you can or until you see a Mondeo that takes your fancy. I thoroughly recommend the Mk4.5 titanium x sport. Beast of a car and will suit your short commute and a good blast once a week