Hi I have a ford focus zetec 1.6 petrol on a 2008 plate for some reason my car won't start key will go to on every fink lights up and wers away but won't start 

battery in the fob good ? immobiliser light goes out ?

Yes to both

Check battery voltage.  Try jump start if low.

1 hour ago, Niel iow said:

2008 plate for some reason my car won't start key will go to on every fink lights up and wers away but won't start 

Is the red immobiliser light flashing when the ignition is on ?

No

Battery fully charged aswell

Looking like the starter motor may have failed if the battery is good and immobiliser light not flashing.

If you've got a jump lead, try putting that between battery and engine block to rule out a dodgy earth cable.

Starter motor can be bench tested when removed. 

I have had this exact problem for months, luckily I looked into it relentlessly before visiting mechanics and I found removing my instrument cluster, disconnecting the connector, cleaning and reconnecting worked.

If your car ever refuses to start and just throws a fault with the engine or throws up ABS module failure and/or CAN Bus communication errors on the ODB… sounds a bit mad but bang the dash above the instrument cluster and it should start 🤷‍♂️

Thats how I figured it was loose connector, always start with the simplest fix

Ford Focus 2009 MK2 
Hope this helps

39 minutes ago, RiddimistMC said:

 

I have had this exact problem for months, luckily I looked into it relentlessly before visiting mechanics and I found removing my instrument cluster, disconnecting the connector, cleaning and reconnecting worked.

If your car ever refuses to start and just throws a fault with the engine or throws up ABS module failure and/or CAN Bus communication errors on the ODB… sounds a bit mad but bang the dash above the instrument cluster and it should start 🤷‍♂️

Thats how I figured it was loose connector, always start with the simplest fix

Ford Focus 2009 MK2 
Hope this helps

Yea your right if you bang on the dash and if it starts then you need to take out the instrument cluster and get it resolder as you will develop more problems the part you need to resolder is where the main connector pins are plenty of videos on YouTube 

1 hour ago, RiddimistMC said:

I have had this exact problem for months, luckily I looked into it relentlessly before visiting mechanics and I found removing my instrument cluster, disconnecting the connector, cleaning and reconnecting worked.

If your car ever refuses to start and just throws a fault with the engine or throws up ABS module failure and/or CAN Bus communication errors on the ODB… sounds a bit mad but bang the dash above the instrument cluster and it should start 🤷‍♂️

Thats how I figured it was loose connector, always start with the simplest fix

Ford Focus 2009 MK2 
Hope this helps

As Mo has indicated, you're describing classic symptoms of the common cracked solder joint problem on the IC's wiring connector. Disconnecting and cleaning the connector will not have actually fixed the problem, you've just disturbed the joints such that things are working temporarily. It will inevitably become faulty again sooner or later. I provide a repair service for this, you can read about it and find my service here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915

It’s been 2 years since mine was like that so trust me mine was from loose or faulty connection, probably from a severe bump or curb hit maybe

51 minutes ago, RiddimistMC said:

It’s been 2 years since mine was like that so trust me mine was from loose or faulty connection, probably from a severe bump or curb hit maybe

Right 🙄

I understand you feeling relaxed about attributing the cause as you have after not seeing the fault represent itself for two years, but I maintain that you're leaping to a false conclusion.

The cracks take years to develop, they are extremely fine gaps, and faults are only going to present themselves under exactly the right conditions - if the two halves of the cracks just so happen to come out of contact, through movement or thermal expansion/contraction, for long enough, and at the right moment. It's common for days, weeks or even months to go by between experiencing faults once they've started presenting themselves. Some people have cracks without yet ever having experienced a fault. I checked my own unit for the first time a year ago. It had never presented a fault, yet it had clear cracks so had the potential to do so at any time. (It was after this that I started offering my repair services to other people and I've now worked on about 140 units). Your lack of experience of any symptoms for two years is not proof that your unit does not have cracked joints or that the faults you experienced were caused by something other than said cracked joints. The cluster model you have is the one I repair the most. I've never been sent one that I did not find cracked joints in. By having removed, unplugged and messed with the connector, you've unavoidably disturbed the solder joints of the connector. You have not provided any proof to rule out the possibility that you've simply had the good fortune of happening to have done so in just precisely the perfect way to have prevented the faults from cropping back up all this time since (disturbed it just right such that contact is being maintained). If you want to convince anyone that cracked joints could not possibly have been the real cause of your symptoms, then take your unit apart and show us that you have no cracks.

The connector is locked into place with a strong latching mechanism, and the female side has flaps of metal bent to push in a spring like fashion against the pins of the male side. I can't imagine a bump, no matter how severe, having any impact whatsoever in terms of loosening its connection. The weight, stiffness and position of the wiring harness can however exert pressure on the solder joints via the connector (which may be why the cracks develop in the first place). The wiring harness of course will have also been disturbed when you removed the cluster.

You stated that bashing the dash had an impact on the faults. This is commonly the case with clusters with cracked joints, it can cause the tiny bit of movement necessary to bring things back into contact, as can wiggling the plug directly.

Trust me, your unit inevitably has cracked joints and this will have been the real cause. Happy to eat my words if you actually prove otherwise.

I didn’t say that someone couldn’t have cracked joints at all, I said to try taking the main connector out and doing as I did if it hadn’t been tried yet also why did it take all that to explain what I said in a sentence, should change your name to TheSaurArse, bad connection or loose wiring was my case anyways, glad it’s fixed now tbh 👌

All I was trying to do was to help you understand that you'd almost certainly misidentified the true cause of your problem and thus are at risk of it resurfacing at any time. In response you're just arrogantly telling me to "trust you", that you know better, based on nothing more than not having had the fault show itself for a while, and despite never having explored the very common fault that causes exactly what you describe.

FYI you also leapt in here claiming to have had the exactly same problem as the OP, but failing to recognise that the questioning of some very knowledgeable and experienced members is actually suggesting that the OP's problem likely has nothing at all to do with their instrument cluster or its connection.

(It's also spelt 'sour' btw not 'saur'). 😉

Welcome to the forum btw.

I think we've probably disrupted the OP's discussion enough though.

I have checked connectio  on dash all good have connected live to starter and it were away  but can't get it to starlight indicators and washers all work 

Also I have noticed that wen ign is on gouges don't move

CLUSTER !!!!!!!!!

Just now, Jimpster said:

CLUSTER !!!!!!!!!

Very likely 👍

Just to note the cluster connector should have a lever locking arrangement so shouldn’t come loose.

19 hours ago, rd457 said:

The connector is locked into place with a strong latching mechanism, and the female side has flaps of metal bent to push in a spring like fashion against the pins of the male side. I can't imagine a bump, no matter how severe, having any impact whatsoever in terms of loosening its connection

As already explained by Lyndon . . . . .