Custom Transit 2013 - Timing Cover damage and oil Leak

[PeteMac]

Timing cover under crank pulley - scored and punctured leaking oil . in 5 o'clock position

https://ibb.co/CWWkBsn
https://ibb.co/f29jhnJ
https://ibb.co/7rd7Ghf

 

Hello, I would greatly appreciate any advice you can give me on repairing a timing cover and the resultant oil leak.
The crank pulley broke up, dragging an internal strip of metal crumple up, scoring a groove along the outside of the crank housing.

Can I fix it with putty\expoxy\braze rather than replace the cover?

Edited March 11 by PeteMac
added further images

[TomsFocus]

You can definitely try some putty there.  Something like JB SteelStik.  Though I'm not sure how well the putty will hold up to the heat cycles and engine vibrations over time.

The cover itself is not expensive if you do decide to replace it.  Part number is 2005433 and can be bought for as little as £30 on eBay.  I know it's a hassle to replace though, needing the engine to be supported while the mount is removed etc.

[PeteMac]

Hi Tom thanks for the advice. 

I have done minimal amount mechanics before now. However, I recently removed the DPF for flushing, and there was some fault-finding on the DPF sensors. After reading the Haynes manual, I am looking at removing the cover, which seems like a big job, but I am starting to get my head around removing the engine mount to access things and get the idler out.  I am planning to look at supporting the engine and do a couple of dry runs through the procedures this afternoon if I can't avoid it.   Do you need to use an align tool to cover £60?

I was hoping possible brazing along the gouge would be a tidy fix.  I'm just looking to see if there are any warnings or cautions on heating the cover.

- Pete

[TomsFocus]

7 minutes ago, PeteMac said:

Do you need to use an align tool to cover £60?

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean?  If you meant 60 degrees torque setting, that can be done by eye as long as you start with the tool in a set position.  (Due North is ideal)  90 degrees is one quarter turn.  So 60 degrees is 2 thirds of that.  Or 2pm on a clock face.

Brazing would leave a nice finish but I wouldn't recommend it without removing the cover first.  The rubber timing belt is just behind there, the rubber crank seal is very close, and of course the oil itself is flammable as well.

[PeteMac]

Hi Tom,

Sorry, that was not very clear. I meant this alignment tool that sits on the crankshaft to ensure precise alignment of the timing cover while you tighten it up, avoiding early failure of the gasket. I guess a minor misalignment shortens the gasket's life. But I guess you can just use the old gasket as it seems in good shape, not the source of the leak.

Does a couple of task useful while replace timing covers on the Duratorq.

https://www.asttools.co.uk/timing chain-cover-crankshaft-seal-highpressure-pump-access-remove-ford-ast5193

[TomsFocus]

1 hour ago, PeteMac said:

Hi Tom,

Sorry, that was not very clear. I meant this alignment tool that sits on the crankshaft to ensure precise alignment of the timing cover while you tighten it up, avoiding early failure of the gasket. I guess a minor misalignment shortens the gasket's life. But I guess you can just use the old gasket as it seems in good shape, not the source of the leak.

Does a couple of task useful while replace timing covers on the Duratorq.

https://www.asttools.co.uk/timing chain-cover-crankshaft-seal-highpressure-pump-access-remove-ford-ast5193

Thanks Pete.  Must admit I was not aware of that tool so not sure whether it's really necessary or not.  I wouldn't have expected any free play in the bolt holes but as you say, the oil seal will need to be perfectly centred around the crankshaft.