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P0069 help


Loui112m
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I have a Ford Focus 1.6 tdci 2011.
The message "engine malfunction"  came on, the fault code is p0069
After the error came, it doesn't have that much power anymore (revs going up normally,  but takes a long time to get up to speed)

I have done the following
changed the map sensor
Cleaned intake temperature sensor
Tried clearing the error code.

But nothing helps.
What could be wrong? And  what is the next thing I should try/investigate?

I have some pictures of the measurements if that would be of any help? (MAP kPa was between 113-117 when idling, but also while driving)

Many thanks in advance if anyone can point me in the right direction 😁

I'm from Denmark, so sorry if my English isn't that good 

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probably sicking EGR valve

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The MAP should be the same as Atmospheric Pressure at Idle. If the new MAP Sensor is ok and the wiring and PCM are also ok then I would suspect a Turbo problem, maybe the Vanes are sticking giving a little bit of boost at Idle but not moving when more power is required. 

There may also be other Ford specific codes that your reader can't pick up, some generic readers only pick up the OBD codes.

If there are any Ford specific codes then FORScan will pick them up. I would explore that avenue before spending any money replacing parts when armed with possibly only part of the story.

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Another thing you can try with the equipment you have. The MAP with the ignition on but Engine not turning should be atmospheric, approx 100kpa if it is and then goes up to 117 at idle then it probably is a problem with your Turbo. 

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Okay thanks 🙏 

with the ignition on, and engine off. Map kPa is around 94. Then when I start the engine and it is at idle it goes up to 117-119 kPa 

I have also taken the EGR out and cleaned it (it was not very dirty) it has not helped.

During a minor drive, the error disappeared by itself 2 times and the car drove perfectly there. But it only lasted 1 minute, then the error came back. And the car lost power again. I monitor the car while driving, the map kpa was still at 117 while the error disappeared.

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It may be an idea to get the dtcs read with Forscan rather than a generic reader as often they don’t read all dtcs. 
Also is your Focus a mk3 or 2.5?

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I don't know if PCM, or the ECU/ECM is ok. I don't know where it is, or how to check it. Tried searching a bit online. But didn't really find anything 

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I'm also thinking of buying one there can read Forscan. It's a Ford focus 1,6 TDCi 2011 109 hk (mk2) 🙂

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3 minutes ago, Loui112m said:

I'm also thinking of buying one there can read Forscan.

This is what you need (and a Windows Laptop). SEE BELOW:-

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L

vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

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16 minutes ago, Loui112m said:

It's a Ford focus 1,6 TDCi 2011 109 hk (mk2) 🙂

The engine ECU (PCM) is in a plastic box in front of the left hand wheel arch.

It is secured with anti-tamper bolts which need to be drilled out or cut off to open the box.

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2 hours ago, Loui112m said:

with the ignition on, and engine off. Map kPa is around 94. Then when I start the engine and it is at idle it goes up to 117-119 kPa 

94 kPa is a little low if you live near sea level but may be correct if you live at a higher altitude.

You should be able to Live Monitor some aspect of the Turbo with FORScan, I can't remember which ones though for that car. 

Having thought about things again it may well be that either the Turbo Vanes are sticking or the Turbo is being commanded to provide boost at Idle to keep the car running because of another problem that your generic Code Reader can't pick up. 

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Thanks for all the good answers! 

Forscan ELM327 USB Will be perfectly fine to use right?

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5 minutes ago, Loui112m said:

Thanks for all the good answers! 

Forscan ELM327 USB Will be perfectly fine to use right?

If it is not any of the ones that FORScan recommend then it will be a clone of a clone of a clone and may work ok for what you intend to use it for but I wouldn't attempt to do any serious programming with it.

If it does work then there may be a warning when you open FORScan with it to say it is not suitable, this does not mean that you can't read Fault Codes or Data. FORScan put that warning because a lot of people were bricking their cars when programming with clone Adaptors and blaming FORScan.

FORScan do not make or sell Adaptors and anything other than the recommended ones that have FORScan in their name are taking liberties because FORScan did not trademark their name.

See this from the official FORScan Forum, it mainly applies if you are using FORScan for programming rather than what you want to use it for.  https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=17072

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Small update

I have changed the turbo and oil hose to the turbo ( the old turbo was very dirty, and a bit broken at the propellers )

Cleaned EGR

Changed Map and Maf sensor 

Used FORsacn. Map kpa is still 118-120

I have now received  two codes from FORscan "P0069-60" and "P0069-P"

The car removed the codes itself for 5-10 minutes  which the car drove fine. However, map kpa was still 119. Then the codes came back and the car lost power.

What can I do now? 

I don't know how to check the pcv if it are ok?

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If it’s a mk2/2.5, I would try hitting the dash above the instrument cluster and see if it brings it out of limp home mode. I would expect to see ‘U’ codes within the dtcs if the dry solder joint problem in the cluster is the problem. This causes phantom faults in various modules.

if water has got into the Fusebox/BCM behind the glovebox or its plugs become loose, it can have a similar effect.

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Has the wiring been checked to the MAP?  

One wire should be a steady 5 volt reference.  If that's even slightly wrong due to a bit of high resistance on the line then the output voltage will also be wrong.  Another should be ground/earth, again that needs to be perfect.

You could tap a boost pipe to run a standalone boost gauge to see whether the boost really is 20kpa above ambient or not.  But I think this is probably a wiring fault.

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Not sure if this may help but I had a similar issue and rectified it with an £8 part. 
 

I found a thread that advised me to check my vacuum pump valve, it’s a pretty common fault. I bought the part off amazon, when pulling my old one off I could see it was broken, fitted the new one and the car is back to normal (touch wood)

 

Vacuum Pump Valve Replacement... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CNCRLN9L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

that’s the link to the one I bought. 
 

good luck 

 

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