7 hours ago, party ford said:

Is there any way to command the fan to full speed without a diagnostic scanner?

If you unplug the coolant temp sensor, the high speed fan might come on as a failsafe.

Otherwise you could try Forscan.  Though I'm not sure why the generic scanners couldn't do it if they can do low speed.

10 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

If you unplug the coolant temp sensor, the high speed fan might come on as a failsafe.

Otherwise you could try Forscan.  Though I'm not sure why the generic scanners couldn't do it if they can do low speed.

Hey. I unplugged the thermostat while the engine was idling and the fan kicked on at the same speed as the low speed mode. Does this mean the fan does not work in full speed mode? And to replace it with a new one?

7 minutes ago, party ford said:

Hey. I unplugged the thermostat while the engine was idling and the fan kicked on at the same speed as the low speed mode. Does this mean the fan does not work in full speed mode? And to replace it with a new one?

Not necessarily.  It may be that your car does only have one fan speed afterall.

Look around the fan cowling and see if you can see a resistor on one corner like this.

If there's no resistor then the fan only has one speed.

6 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Not necessarily.  It may be that your car does only have one fan speed afterall.

Look around the fan cowling and see if you can see a resistor on one corner like this.

If there's no resistor then the fan only has one speed.

Hey thank you. No my fan doesn't have a resistor.

Before I replace my head core plugs, I'm going to pressurize the cooling system and look in all of my cylinders for coolant leakage with a boroscope that's coming in the mail tomorrow.

Here is a video of how it's done.

https://youtu.be/CiwyPgrlbEM?si=bukojN-KMmTW_6Wd

22 minutes ago, party ford said:

Hey thank you. No my fan doesn't have a resistor.

Before I replace my head core plugs, I'm going to pressurize the cooling system and look in all of my cylinders for coolant leakage with a boroscope that's coming in the mail tomorrow.

Here is a video of how it's done.

https://youtu.be/CiwyPgrlbEM?si=bukojN-KMmTW_6Wd

No I think something is really wrong. The engine maxes out at 3800 RPM when I give it full throttle. 🤦

6 hours ago, party ford said:

No I think something is really wrong. The engine maxes out at 3800 RPM when I give it full throttle. 🤦

Is that when stationary or driving?  The RPM is restricted when stationary on modern cars.

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Is that when stationary or driving?  The RPM is restricted when stationary on modern cars.

Got it. It was stationary.

Its been almost a month and I put so much time and money in this car. I really want to know if this engine is fixable.

If I don't see any water in my cylinders, could it mean my engine block is cracked?

As you're getting good compression on every cylinder, I think it's very unlikely to have a cracked block.

On 6/2/2024 at 6:56 AM, TomsFocus said:

As you're getting good compression on every cylinder, I think it's very unlikely to have a cracked block.

Hey. I checked inside of my cylinders with the boroscope as I pressurized the cooling system and I didn't see any water dripping into the cylinders. 

 

I also did another compression test while the engine was cold and cylinder #1 = 135psi , #2 = 133psi, #3 = 140psi and #4 = 130psi. 

 

I added some cooling system cleaner and I'm going to run it for at least an hour. (Idling, since it doesn't overheat unless I give it throttle for a few minutes) 

 

My 02 sensors are not indicating that the catalytic converter is clogged at all and my short term fuel trim stays about +5to-5% so I don't believe I'm running rich or lean.

Could it be possible that my exhaust behind the catalytic converter is clogged and causing my engine to overheat with white smoke?

Good to hear there's no coolant in the cylinders and the compression is still good.  Running out of suggestions now in all honesty.

Exhausts don't really clog up behind the cat.  I suppose there might be a banana in the tailpipe if you've parked in Beverly Hills.

Have you got an OBD2 reader with live data to see exactly how hot it's getting?

Has it got the correct engine oil in it?

Also does the heater get hot inside the car?  I know you probably don't need it this time of year but worth trying just to check the heater circuit is clear and flowing properly.

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Good to hear there's no coolant in the cylinders and the compression is still good.  Running out of suggestions now in all honesty.

Exhausts don't really clog up behind the cat.  I suppose there might be a banana in the tailpipe if you've parked in Beverly Hills.

Have you got an OBD2 reader with live data to see exactly how hot it's getting?

Has it got the correct engine oil in it?

Also does the heater get hot inside the car?  I know you probably don't need it this time of year but worth trying just to check the heater circuit is clear and flowing properly.

Hey. Yes I have live data and the engine coolant temperature gets as high as I let it. I usually turn it off around 225°F. Idk about Beverly Hills lol.

 

Yes. It has the correct oil in it. 5w20. And The heater does get hot inside the car.

10 hours ago, party ford said:

Hey. Yes I have live data and the engine coolant temperature gets as high as I let it. I usually turn it off around 225°F. Idk about Beverly Hills lol.

 

Yes. It has the correct oil in it. 5w20. And The heater does get hot inside the car.

225f is about as high as I'd want it to get as well (107c for those of us in the Europe).  These do run quite hot normally, but that is too much.  Good to hear the heater is hot.  I genuinely don't understand why it's getting so hot when the cooling system seems to be working and there are no combustion leaks into it.

One thing we haven't considered yet is the engine timing.  Is it a Ti-VCT model with variable camshaft timing?  If so, the fuel may be getting injected too late, or the exhaust valves may be opening to early, preventing the proper combustion when it's driven at higher RPM's, so unburnt fuel is going through the exhaust.  You should notice a lack of power when the smoke is visible if that is happening though.

 

Have you never seen Beverly Hills Cop lol?

 

9 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

225f is about as high as I'd want it to get as well (107c for those of us in the Europe).  These do run quite hot normally, but that is too much.  Good to hear the heater is hot.  I genuinely don't understand why it's getting so hot when the cooling system seems to be working and there are no combustion leaks into it.

One thing we haven't considered yet is the engine timing.  Is it a Ti-VCT model with variable camshaft timing?  If so, the fuel may be getting injected too late, or the exhaust valves may be opening to early, preventing the proper combustion when it's driven at higher RPM's, so unburnt fuel is going through the exhaust.  You should notice a lack of power when the smoke is visible if that is happening though.

 

Have you never seen Beverly Hills Cop lol?

 

Lol wtf did I just watch. 

 

Wouldn't I have a timing code or a misfire if the timing were off though? Also wouldn't the I have a rough idle? 

I don't really notice it lacking power when the white smoke comes out either.

If it's got variable camshaft timing then the timing could be correct at idle, but going wrong when the camshaft adjustment happens at higher RPM's.  (I don't know if the US spec Fiesta's got Ti-VCT at the same time as the UK ones.)

It wouldn't necessarily misfire, it could still partly burn, just not completely burn.  Meaning less power, and some of the fuel going through the exhaust.  You are right, I would expect to see a fault code if the timing was off though.  And if it's still got power at higher RPM's, that makes a timing issue even less likely.

Think I've run out of ideas unfortunately.  The only two suggestions I would make now would both be modifications.  One, try fitting an aftermarket radiator fan that's more powerful than yours for greater radiator cooling.  And two, try drilling a very small hole (literally only 1-2mm) at the back of the exhaust midbox and backbox to allow any water to drain out.  If a large quantity of water did end up going through the exhaust before you fixed the headgasket, it's possible that's still sloshing about in the backbox and could turn to steam when hot.  Ideally you would remove the exhaust and tip it up on end, but on the Fiesta's it's fitted over the rear suspension beam so can't be removed easily in one piece.

18 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

If it's got variable camshaft timing then the timing could be correct at idle, but going wrong when the camshaft adjustment happens at higher RPM's.  (I don't know if the US spec Fiesta's got Ti-VCT at the same time as the UK ones.)

It wouldn't necessarily misfire, it could still partly burn, just not completely burn.  Meaning less power, and some of the fuel going through the exhaust.  You are right, I would expect to see a fault code if the timing was off though.  And if it's still got power at higher RPM's, that makes a timing issue even less likely.

Think I've run out of ideas unfortunately.  The only two suggestions I would make now would both be modifications.  One, try fitting an aftermarket radiator fan that's more powerful than yours for greater radiator cooling.  And two, try drilling a very small hole (literally only 1-2mm) at the back of the exhaust midbox and backbox to allow any water to drain out.  If a large quantity of water did end up going through the exhaust before you fixed the headgasket, it's possible that's still sloshing about in the backbox and could turn to steam when hot.  Ideally you would remove the exhaust and tip it up on end, but on the Fiesta's it's fitted over the rear suspension beam so can't be removed easily in one piece.

Thank you very much. I unhooked the exhaust at the joint right behind the CAT 🐈. And let the engine idle for about 30 mins and gave it a little throttle. Anyways, it did not puff out white smoke at that joint when the engine ran hot. So I think your right about water (or maybe coolant anti rust that previous owner added) being clogged in the rear section of the exhaust. 

 

I just ordered a new radiator too because I know the heater core is clogged slightly. (The inlet and outlet hoses are about 60°F different). So I will definitely consider buying a new fan if my wallet can handle it. 

 

If I ever get this little Mr. Bean car to stop overheating I'll let you know lol! 👨‍🔧💪🏼🤝

On 6/6/2024 at 1:47 AM, TomsFocus said:

If it's got variable camshaft timing then the timing could be correct at idle, but going wrong when the camshaft adjustment happens at higher RPM's.  (I don't know if the US spec Fiesta's got Ti-VCT at the same time as the UK ones.)

It wouldn't necessarily misfire, it could still partly burn, just not completely burn.  Meaning less power, and some of the fuel going through the exhaust.  You are right, I would expect to see a fault code if the timing was off though.  And if it's still got power at higher RPM's, that makes a timing issue even less likely.

Think I've run out of ideas unfortunately.  The only two suggestions I would make now would both be modifications.  One, try fitting an aftermarket radiator fan that's more powerful than yours for greater radiator cooling.  And two, try drilling a very small hole (literally only 1-2mm) at the back of the exhaust midbox and backbox to allow any water to drain out.  If a large quantity of water did end up going through the exhaust before you fixed the headgasket, it's possible that's still sloshing about in the backbox and could turn to steam when hot.  Ideally you would remove the exhaust and tip it up on end, but on the Fiesta's it's fitted over the rear suspension beam so can't be removed easily in one piece.

Hey. The cooling system was clogged and I had to replace the radiator and flush the heater core. After that, the car runs great!!!!!!! 

9 minutes ago, party ford said:

Hey. The cooling system was clogged and I had to replace the radiator and flush the heater core. After that, the car runs great!!!!!!! 

Excellent!  That's great news!