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Focus MK2 (ST) Instrument Cluster ( Menu Switch Problem )

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Hello!

 

I got a 2008 Focus ST with 208 000km.

The problem i have with the vehicle is, that i can't use the "Menu Down" button on the left indicator stalk. ( thus i cant set the time, nor my steering settings etc. because in the menu settings you only can go down.. ) 

I already bought - and ofc tried an another indicator stalk, but the problem persists.

I looked through the electric schematic of the car and found the switch / it goes to the Instrument Cluster( Pic attached)

Does anyone know - if that is the plug that goes into the Instrument Cluster or do i have to look somewhere else to find the destination of the menu switch buttons?

also, the Instrument Cluster got already repaired once, if that matters. I took it out and looked at the soldering pins( from the plug-connector atleast)

under my microscope, they all seem to be fine. 

Thats also the only problem i got.


Thank you in advance guys!

 

Screenshot 2024-09-09 210858.png



22 hours ago, Kochi said:

I already bought - and ofc tried an another indicator stalk, but the problem persists.

"New does not always mean good". You may have just been unlucky enough to get a replacement with the same fault.

22 hours ago, Kochi said:

Does anyone know - if that is the plug that goes into the Instrument Cluster or do i have to look somewhere else to find the destination of the menu switch buttons?

Yes indeed that's the instrument cluster's wiring connector, that's where they connect to. The menu up/down buttons connect to pins 2 and 30 on the IC connector. I don't know which way around since they just label them 'mode 1' and 'mode 2'.

These two pins are towards the ends of the two parallel rows of pins, which is where the cracks tend to occur (common fault).

You could try checking continuity and resistance through the relevant pins of the multifunction switch with the button held down to verify whether the switch is okay. You could do this from the IC plug for ease of access and also to include the wiring in the test. You could check continuity/resistance from the IC pins to where they go in the board to try to gauge how good the solder joints are, or you could just go ahead and reflow them. (Maybe they look okay on the outside but are cracking internally, or maybe the person who did it melted the solder against the soldering iron rather than the joint and the joint wasn't hot enough, so there's poor adhesion of the solder to the pin?). You could also do a "drag test" on the IC plug, or a continuity/resistence test with it plugged in with IC board exposed, to check if maybe there's a poor connection between the plug and socket.

Do you want to show a pic of the solder joints?

  • Author

Hi!

 

Sorry for the late response, haven't had time in the last couple days.

So i checked the Switch, the wiring and the IC Plug / Connection. That all seems good! The switch ( both.. yep, should've checked before i bought a new one ) work just fine.

Im about to resolder the pins ( 30 / 2 ) on the IC again and recheck, im gonna attach a few pics of the solder joints then ( to me they look good, but as you said maybe they're bad internally) 

Im done with resoldering. Infact, one of the 2 pins looked broken, didnt see that last time.. im gonna attach a picture and update here when i installed the IC PHO00004.thumb.JPG.7e8545c392b177b1d8a220d4b9b87c75.JPG

  • Author

Update :

 

It was the solder joint! Switch is working just fine now! 

 

 

8 hours ago, Kochi said:

solder joints then ( to me they look good, but as you said maybe they're bad internally) 

Dry solder joints are often very hard to spot.

dry joint.JPG

  • Author
On 9/10/2024 at 8:14 PM, rd457 said:

 

 

59 minutes ago, unofix said:

Dry solder joints are often very hard to spot.

dry joint.JPG

Yep, i swear i didnt see it the first time. I also resoldered every pin - just incase.

 

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