Hi, I have a 2017 2.0TDCI S-Max that has been flashing up warnings for the ABS, Park Assist, Traction Control, Hill Start Assist, and Electric Handbrake.  ForScan shows codes for communication errors on ABS, Park Assist and Parking brake modules, front left and right ABS sensors, and steering wheel position.   I have checked all the sensors etc but am slowly coming to the conclusion it is the ABS module or the wiring to it. I hear the modules are £600+ and need programming to the car. 

My next task is to locate the ABS module and check the wiring to it.  I believe this is behind the battery?

Anyone else have these faults before? 

Thanks

3 minutes ago, unofix said:

2017 vehicle will be due (overdue) a new battery if it is still on the original factory fitted.

Low system voltage can cause all of the faults that you have.

 

Thanks @unofix but the battery was one of the first things i changed. and also changed the charging level from 80% to 95% in Forscan.  

18 hours ago, Chris2674 said:

slowly coming to the conclusion it is the ABS module or the wiring to it

There are 3 or 4 specialist companies in the UK who repair/refurbish your ABS unit. This normally means that there is no programming needed when you get your own unit back.

Such as:
https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalogue/ford/s-max/abs-pump-ecumodule-combined/

They get good reviews from:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPs-x0e92Yo

Starts at about 5 min...

May be worth getting an opinion from a specialist such as him, if you can find one unless you just want to dismantle it yourself and get it tested (or follow the powers/grounds and CAN diagnosis if possible!)

 

Thanks all but i think i have fixed it.  

So about 2 months a go when this started to happen more regularly i got a mechanic to check it out and he said the battery had poor health. I thought this was odd as it was only fitted by Halfords in February.  I took it back into Halfords who fitted a new battery under their warranty system so i was pretty happy.  However the faults were still there and got gradually worse. 

Yesterday i finally had some time to look at the car myself and started with the ABS sensors and traced the wiring back to the ABS module.  However when i started to remove the battery the ground cable just fell off the battery terminal like it wasn't even tightened up!  I refitted it and gave it a good tighten and gave it an 30 minute test drive and now there are no warning lights.  (usually they would be on after 2 minutes).  

I want to give it a good drive all week to make sure. It makes sense as the car always seemed to have electrical glitches and the sync system always seemed to lose radio presets etc.  

Just glad it's not the module! 

9 hours ago, Chris2674 said:

However when i started to remove the battery the ground cable just fell off the battery terminal like it wasn't even tightened up!  I refitted it and gave it a good tighten

Someone said the faults would be caused by low system voltage 🤣🤣

Or testing powers and grounds and not just tested with multimeter voltage!
Thanks for letting us know - very useful!

On 10/28/2024 at 9:00 AM, Chris2674 said:

Thanks all but i think i have fixed it.  

So about 2 months a go when this started to happen more regularly i got a mechanic to check it out and he said the battery had poor health. I thought this was odd as it was only fitted by Halfords in February.  I took it back into Halfords who fitted a new battery under their warranty system so i was pretty happy.  However the faults were still there and got gradually worse. 

Yesterday i finally had some time to look at the car myself and started with the ABS sensors and traced the wiring back to the ABS module.  However when i started to remove the battery the ground cable just fell off the battery terminal like it wasn't even tightened up!  I refitted it and gave it a good tighten and gave it an 30 minute test drive and now there are no warning lights.  (usually they would be on after 2 minutes).  

I want to give it a good drive all week to make sure. It makes sense as the car always seemed to have electrical glitches and the sync system always seemed to lose radio presets etc.  

Just glad it's not the module! 

Hi Chris,
I have a similar problem to you with the same codes - 
C003115

C003415

C005167

It has obviously been a while now, so I wondered if what you did to the battery fixed the issue long term ?
Thanks in advance

https://www.dtcdecode.com/Ford/C0031-15 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor: Short to Battery or Open
https://www.dtcdecode.com/Ford/C0034-15: Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor: Circuit Short to Battery or Openhttps://www.dtcdecode.com/Ford/C0051-67: Steering position sensor?
That's wot they say so sensors and wiring  for all, clear faults, see what comes back?
Obviously check and replace battery if necessary, previous poster found a loose battery terminal which would certainly cause issues.

6 hours ago, Gavin-1973 said:

so I wondered if what you did to the battery fixed the issue long term ?

Same exact faults, would warrant the exact same suggestion. Test, charge or replace the battery.

On 10/23/2024 at 6:43 PM, unofix said:

2017 vehicle will be due (overdue) a new battery if it is still on the original factory fitted.

Low system voltage can cause all of the faults that you have.

 

On 11/13/2025 at 1:39 PM, Shearers said:

https://www.dtcdecode.com/Ford/C0031-15 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor: Short to Battery or Open
https://www.dtcdecode.com/Ford/C0034-15: Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor: Circuit Short to Battery or Openhttps://www.dtcdecode.com/Ford/C0051-67: Steering position sensor?
That's wot they say so sensors and wiring  for all, clear faults, see what comes back?
Obviously check and replace battery if necessary, previous poster found a loose battery terminal which would certainly cause issues.

Thank you ...

So do you think the sensors need replacing first ?
The garage that added new tyres ran these codes for me - but thought the sensors were OK ?

I replaced the battery about a year ago - been having the faults for about 5-6 months ?

I can just about see the battery - it is behind a big air filter in my SMAX - and the earth cable is the furthest point away - (hard to get to)

I am not too technical with cars so any advice would be appreciated.

By the way - the sensor starts when I reverse off the drive and when I have the steering wheel in full lock.
 

I'm always loath to give any definitive advice as it's so easy to be wrong at long distance with codes which may, or not be related to the actual issue.
Once anyone says "my garage thought", I also shudder as it doesn't sound like they have any evidence, they are just guessing (at your expense?)
Anyway, despite the battery only being a year old, that is always the first thing to look into based on multiple other posters and long history (you re always on borrowed time and the warranties usually only cover manufacturing faults, not anything to do with starting the car or other faults?)

I don't subscribe to just throwing stuff away so I'd fully charge, check the voltage, check the alternator is charging as a first line.
Then I always check the actual capacity (there is no easy way to do this other than, fully charge, discharge through a headlamp bulb, measure current and time it until  voltage drops to 10V, calculate the Ah.
Most batteries actually fail on capacity:
https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-806-tracking-battery-capacity-and-resistance-as-part-of-aging
My battery tester gives CCA, internal resistance, voltage and claims to give condition and percentage charge which usually makes sense.
End of my personal battery testing regime (others will differ but like people, they have multiple failure modes!)

Regarding any sensors, if they are very cheap and easy to fit (Ha Ha to that!) then maybe changing them is a valid method to save money BUT as vehicles age, or even before, wiring issues, connector corrosion, damage due to vibrations etc etc very often need an auto electrician to test the entire path from sensor back to ECU. Plus, sometimes the codes are initiated by some other fault.
A long answer and if you can't check the battery and its negative yourself (yes, it needs removing and sliding out to check that end) plus ability to use a multimeter/Forscan  etc to investigate then I suggest you find a local specialist to investigate for you.
The steering sensor does look as though it is related to being on full lock (both or just one way?)

I'll wait for real experts to come along...

Hi, Having similar issues on a 2018 SMAX.  On having new tyres - Halfords ran out these codes for me.  I also had to replace one defective Tyre pressure monitor valve - which had been replaced a year before at Ford main dealer.
 

C003115 Front left wheel sensor Open circuit / B+ short

C005167 Steering Angle Sensor Signal not OK / incorrect

C003415 Front right wheel sensor Open circuit / B+ short

 

I have cleaned the front right sensor - no change.

I had  anew battery about a year ago - and I think I started getting the ESC Service problem about 3 months later.

I have just read about resetting the Battery Management System (BMS) - which I have just done - as I didn't know this needed doing when replacing the battery.

I showed the codes to an auto electrician who mentioned it will be close to £1k to fix as it will be a new module ... so trying to try everything else first ...

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

My next job is to buy 2 new front sensors and fit those ... 

Without going over old ground (read the thread above?), suggest you thoroughly check battery and all associated wiring including load testing wires to individual sensors.

If you MUST fire the parts cannon, start with one sensor and fit it to both sides to see if it is sensor, cabling or maybe module (powers/grounds and CAN wiring to be checked before anything else is done?

Plus look at the Forscan process to recalibrate the steering angle sensor.

I'm caveating this with ????? based on the codes alone which may not be the full story?

 

18 hours ago, Shearers said:

Without going over old ground (read the thread above?), suggest you thoroughly check battery and all associated wiring including load testing wires to individual sensors.

If you MUST fire the parts cannon, start with one sensor and fit it to both sides to see if it is sensor, cabling or maybe module (powers/grounds and CAN wiring to be checked before anything else is done?

Plus look at the Forscan process to recalibrate the steering angle sensor.

I'm caveating this with ????? based on the codes alone which may not be the full story?

 

Thanks Shearers, I really appreciate you coming back to me.

I cleaned both front sensors again and checked connection which seem fine so leaving that at the minute.  
I checked the battery - about 12.4 with a multimeter, 10.4 on ignition and idling at about 14.4 - I think it all works fine as the Auto stop start seems to work fine.


I am more looking at the SAS now - especially as I read that this can be an issue after a battery issue - and I did have a complete power failure last december where we lost all power and the doors wouldn't even open and we replaced the battery.  I can take the battery out probably by myself - as a local mechanic put it on for me as it is situated right behind a big air filter which all has to come out.   What am I looking for behind the battery - and loose wires ?

Is it safe to disconnect the battery - or will the loss of power affect other things ?

I am also about to buy / borrow an OBD so that I can try and reset the SAS.  It does seem to happen more when I am turning corners or roundabouts....

Thanks again ...

 

Good to hear that the major problems are fixed

Assume it's BMS which should have been reset when battery was new (although if it is fairly new, likely no issue?) It can be done by some crazy button pushing operations that vary from model to model, for 2011 it's:

Turn on ignition and within 10 s,

Press rear fog lamp switch four times

Press hazard switch three times.

Wait three seconds and battery symbol should flash 3 times, job done (on ours)

Again for 2011 we lose radio code and electric windows need resetting.

And battery negative lead needs removing from the body post (on ours) before battery can be slid out (always negative first then cover the terminal to prevent it touching the body) then removed positive and slide it out 

I'd check all the actual battery connection especially at the post to ensure it isn't loose as going round corners with possible movement may be the issue?

Forscan and recommended lead is the Go To for Ford, basic cheap OBD readers are very limited and don't have much capability and don't see Ford specific codes i.e. useless!

 

On 12/8/2025 at 7:15 PM, Shearers said:

Good to hear that the major problems are fixed

Assume it's BMS which should have been reset when battery was new (although if it is fairly new, likely no issue?) It can be done by some crazy button pushing operations that vary from model to model, for 2011 it's:

Turn on ignition and within 10 s,

Press rear fog lamp switch four times

Press hazard switch three times.

Wait three seconds and battery symbol should flash 3 times, job done (on ours)

Again for 2011 we lose radio code and electric windows need resetting.

And battery negative lead needs removing from the body post (on ours) before battery can be slid out (always negative first then cover the terminal to prevent it touching the body) then removed positive and slide it out 

I'd check all the actual battery connection especially at the post to ensure it isn't loose as going round corners with possible movement may be the issue?

Forscan and recommended lead is the Go To for Ford, basic cheap OBD readers are very limited and don't have much capability and don't see Ford specific codes i.e. useless!

 

Have ordered a reader which I will test at the end of the week - and I will try and reset the Steering Angle Sensor from this ... The ESC Warning lights do seem to come on when turning the wheel - especially when the wheel is in full lock.

Something I keep noticing now is just before the ESC warnings come on - the digital speedo in the middle seems to jump between numbers and also the actual dial speedo seems to jump about a bit - then the Esc warning lights come on and the speedo is back to normal.  For the minute or two that the ESC warning is on - the steering is stiffer (no power steering)

Upon smart charging the battery seems to be around the 12.58 mark so presume this is OK.


Is there any way of finding a wire diagram of where the wires go for the 2 ABS speed sensors - I keep also hearing there could be a dodgy connection in this wiring ring - but everything is so well hidden.

 

3 minutes ago, Gavin-1973 said:

The ESC Warning lights do seem to come on when turning the wheel - especially when the wheel is in full lock.

One (or both) of the front wheel ABS sensors is miscounting the wheel revolutions when cornering. Either use FORScan to check for a DTC and identify which sensor is failing or simply replace both of the ABS sensors.

3 minutes ago, unofix said:

One (or both) of the front wheel ABS sensors is miscounting the wheel revolutions when cornering. Either use FORScan to check for a DTC and identify which sensor is failing or simply replace both of the ABS sensors.

Thanks 
 

C003115 Front left wheel sensor Open circuit / B+ short

C005167 Steering Angle Sensor Signal not OK / incorrect

C003415 Front right wheel sensor Open circuit / B+ short

These were the codes the garage (Halfords) ran for me ... 

I have cleaned both sensors - shall I now try replace them ?  I have been unable to locate any ford specific sensors on the ford spares sites and also my local ford spares place doesnt have these  - are there any other good makes - or good places to buy these from ?


Thanks again .....

3 minutes ago, Gavin-1973 said:

I have cleaned both sensors - shall I now try replace them ?

In the absence of any genuine Ford specific DTC's read by FORScan, then changing both front ABS sensors would be the next move.

Halford use generic code readers that do not always give an accurate account of the fault.

I don't understand why your local Ford dealer can't just order you two new sensors of the correct type. What is their  reason for not being able to get them ?

6 minutes ago, unofix said:

In the absence of any genuine Ford specific DTC's read by FORScan, then changing both front ABS sensors would be the next move.

Halford use generic code readers that do not always give an accurate account of the fault.

I don't understand why your local Ford dealer can't just order you two new sensors of the correct type. What is their  reason for not being able to get them ?

They just said they had none in stock and they weren't in stock to order -

This is the right one I need

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/2504175

I have just checked online and may have located a couple of ford ones - that weren't showing last week (Arnold Clark)


 

Depending on price, access and equipment, it may be possible to check the wiring first (your choice)
Similar to this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg2El9qqTlA

 

7 hours ago, unofix said:

In the absence of any genuine Ford specific DTC's read by FORScan, then changing both front ABS sensors would be the next move.

Halford use generic code readers that do not always give an accurate account of the fault.

I don't understand why your local Ford dealer can't just order you two new sensors of the correct type. What is their  reason for not being able to get them ?

Thanks again Unofix

 

My KINGBOLEN EDIAG Elite OBD2 Scanner arrived today and I was able to load up the data and remove all the codes.

I took its for a spin and the ESC Service started up again - so I pulled over and set it for live data - the km/h was constant and then within 200 yards it went off again and had the readings shown in the pics attached.

 

I am pretty sure this means it is the front sensor that is the issue - so feel confident it is worth ordering that.  I didnt want to replace loads of stuff until I knew a bit more.

The Steering Wheel position sensor code is back up also - but hoping that is linked.

 

Thanks again - 
 

Did this fix it ? Got a similar situation here.