Hi all,

My Focus has been having issues for a few months. Started when the dash started sending alerts like "engine malfunction" and "transmission failure". 

Would take 2-3 tries to start. Then as I entered my driveway the car completely died, after I went over bump on gutter. Rolled it to a stop and tried to start, I got rapid clicking.

Next day, completely dead. No crank, nothing. I booked a mobile mechanic to come have a look. Battery fine. He used a scanner code (picture attached) but couldn't pinpoint the direct problem.

He did mention the issue could be the transponder in the key, or the immobilizer. I towed it to an auto electrician, he called back and said he couldn't even pick up any codes on it as it "wasn't talking to his scanner". Odd. He did mention it probably is an immobilizer issue.

I have had the cluster solded so can't be that.

Has anyone else had similar issues like this that they have resolved? Or Would anyone have any ideas?

The low voltage and CAN codes are rampant?
Even though battery has been checked (how, to what detail, how old is it, how charged?) there may be some earthing strap fault or other poor connection causing this.

Not talking to scanner looks like a CAN problem meaning a module is offline for some reason?

At 2009, you are in the league of electrical connection faults etc? (just dealing with battery supply cable connection getting getting hot due to high resistance on our 2011) 

My first guess, hopefully others will make their suggestions but perhaps start with the obvious?

11 minutes ago, Shearers said:

The low voltage and CAN codes are rampant?
Even though battery has been checked (how, to what detail, how old is it, how charged?) there may be some earthing strap fault or other poor connection causing this.

 

I am not sure. Nothing in log book. He used a battery charger. You think it could be just a dead battery? That would be a great outcome but wouldn't like buying a brand new battery if it's not the issue. 

"there may be some earthing strap fault or other poor connection causing this"

Can you please elaborate on this thanks very much

 

First a question and then I'll give you an answer.

Have you got a good set of 'Jump Leads' ? 🤔

7 hours ago, chrisdickens1 said:

I am not sure. Nothing in log book. He used a battery charger. You think it could be just a dead battery? That would be a great outcome but wouldn't like buying a brand new battery if it's not the issue. 

"there may be some earthing strap fault or other poor connection causing this"

Can you please elaborate on this thanks very much

This is a long winded post expressing my view of this issue:

Agree, always need jump leads or a jump starter as a back up?

Trying to get some indication of age of battery - you are always on borrowed time and most members on here are very concerned to ensure that it is in tip top condition as it can often cause obscure electrical issues?

Whilst testing batteries is a bit of a "Black Art" as, like humans, they have multiple failure modes so if you test one, you may miss the others, i.e. just testing voltage and pronouncing sound isn't a comprehensive test IMHO?

Anyway, that is the first point, but perhaps a high discharge test at local discount store or test at Halfords etc with something like a Midtronics device is appropriate - just something to try to rule battery out?

Low voltage issues may (just may - I always hedge my bets as long  distance diagnosis is very difficult) cause some of the problems on the list of codes.
Every bolted or other electrical connection can have corrosion which will cause high resistance leading to excessive voltage drop that can cause multiple issues.
There may be multiple heavy duty (around 1 cm diameter) flexible earthing leads connecting bodywork to engine etc that can fail/corrode/break.
To me, this sort of thing is the basics if anything on that side is wrong then it will affect every electrical aspect on the vehicle, the transponder issue is also worrying but, again, I suspect it could (just could) be related to a low voltage issue?

If you aren't sure then you are in the hands of the professionals but without disrespecting all of them,  I have to say there are multiple posts on here where garages/mobile techs just appear to list codes, replace expensive parts at your cost and if that doesn't work, seem to give up?
 

8 hours ago, unofix said:

First a question and then I'll give you an answer.

Have you got a good set of 'Jump Leads' ? 🤔

Yeah I have a portable jump starter. 

When I attach leads, power is restored. Windows, lights work. But still won't crank completely dead

1 minute ago, chrisdickens1 said:

Yeah I have a portable jump starter. 

That wasn't the question.

Do you own a set of Jump leads ?

6 hours ago, unofix said:

That wasn't the question.

Do you own a set of Jump leads ?

Sorry. No jump leads

If you can borrow some then you can test the earthing of the engine and the chassis.

You only need one jump lead. Connect it to the battery negative terminal, and connect the other end to any good solid bit of metal on the engine. For example the alternator or starter motor mounting points.

Then see if the car cranks or starts any faster.

On 11/30/2024 at 7:09 AM, unofix said:

If you can borrow some then you can test the earthing of the engine and the chassis.

You only need one jump lead. Connect it to the battery negative terminal, and connect the other end to any good solid bit of metal on the engine. For example the alternator or starter motor mounting points.

Then see if the car cranks or starts any faster.

Hi mate. Tried this but still the same, no cranking or anything happened

On 11/28/2024 at 11:00 PM, chrisdickens1 said:

When I attach leads, power is restored. Windows, lights work. But still won't crank completely dead

So that is a MAJOR change (improvement) implying that battery is a DEFINITE suspect in my view? 

Does everything on the car work when the jump starter is connected, except starter?

If so then you may have multiple issues with heavy duty connection to starter and/or earthing issues or the starter itself or the signal it is getting or, I think you mentioned immobiliser??
All of the above and perhaps more need checking, codes clearing as you make improvements?

16 hours ago, Shearers said:

So that is a MAJOR change (improvement) implying that battery is a DEFINITE suspect in my view? 

Does everything on the car work when the jump starter is connected, except starter?

If so then you may have multiple issues with heavy duty connection to starter and/or earthing issues or the starter itself or the signal it is getting or, I think you mentioned immobiliser??
All of the above and perhaps more need checking, codes clearing as you make improvements?

Yes. So everything including air, lights, windows, radio.

I am going to bite the bullet and just buy a new battery to see if it is the issue. 

The auto electrician mentioned immobiliser. I got new a new transponder for the key.

Unfortunately I don't have a scanner, that was the mobile mechanic  

3 hours ago, chrisdickens1 said:

I am going to bite the bullet and just buy a new battery to see if it is the issue. 

👍

6 hours ago, chrisdickens1 said:

I am going to bite the bullet and just buy a new battery to see if it is the issue. 

Get supplier to test it if possible, I never like to "guess" if possible?
I wonder why electrician didn't test and find out if it looked faulty but that's just me (even I have a cheap battery tester that does CCA, volts/internal resistance, SoC etc!)

On 12/7/2024 at 4:35 AM, Shearers said:

I wonder why electrician didn't test and find out if it looked faulty but that's just me (even I have a cheap battery tester that does CCA, volts/internal resistance, SoC etc!)

 Not sure?? I found it strange as well. It's a pain in the ***** to get battery out. You have to take off wipers and a cover but still, he just gave up.

Anyway, I have installed brand new battery. Was confident as the central locking worked. All lights came on the dash. 

Tried starting, sounded perfect. Beautiful turn over and..... Still doesn't start. It's VERY close. Gotta be starter motor?? 

Is it possible the alternator is buggered from trying to start it so many times?

8 hours ago, chrisdickens1 said:

Tried starting, sounded perfect. Beautiful turn over and..... Still doesn't start. It's VERY close. Gotta be starter motor?? 

Is it possible the alternator is buggered from trying to start it so many times?

OK so massive improvement?

Alternator separate issue IMHO wait until you get it started and check warning light is out (basic) and voltage (to confirm charging OK).

Regarding starting, if is turning over fast enough and sounds OK then I'd check it is getting fuel with no bubbles in the fuel line, has the filter been changed as often as it should have been - you have a worrying engine oil code - serviced needed? (we are now into unknown territory as you have now had multiple fault codes/issues for months)

Note and clear codes (most will likely be due to low voltage issues?), see what comes back, keep the battery charged/use your jump starter to support?

Fuel pressure and immobiliser codes look most relevant if they are still hard?

7 minutes ago, Shearers said:

OK so massive improvement?

Alternator separate issue IMHO wait until you get it started and check warning light is out (basic) and voltage (to confirm charging OK).

Regarding starting, if is turning over fast enough and sounds OK then I'd check it is getting fuel with no bubbles in the fuel line, has the filter been changed as often as it should have been - you have a worrying engine oil code - serviced needed? (we are now into unknown territory as you have now had multiple fault codes/issues for months)

Note and clear codes (most will likely be due to low voltage issues?), see what comes back, keep the battery charged/use your jump starter to support?

Fuel pressure and immobiliser codes look most relevant if they are still hard?

Yes huge improvement. Car hasn't had a start for nearly 3 months. Maybe fuel or fuel filter issue? I was thinking spark plugs but someone told me diesel doesn't have sparks.

I will have to get a scanner and clear the codes and do a fresh scan yeah?

It is due for a service yes but obviously gotta get the ***** thing started first.

 

Regarding immobilizer, the locksmith changed the key transponder, could there still be an issue with immobilizer?

Our suggestion on here is to use Forscan (dedicated Ford only, free software but you need a lead:
https://www.vgatemall.com/products-detail/i-19/
General purpose lead.

For me, changing the transponder when it wasn't starting and the battery was U/S means that could be an issue?

Fuel issue and filter may need investigating first  - that would be my priority - others may differ!

Sorry, had to rush out, this is the lead which, I think is recommended by all?:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BLH3ZTG1

Then Forscan on your laptop then will need to carefully learn about it, easy to review and clear codes.

Starter for 10:

 

6 hours ago, Shearers said:

Sorry, had to rush out, this is the lead which, I think is recommended by all?:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BLH3ZTG1

Then Forscan on your laptop then will need to carefully learn about it, easy to review and clear codes.

Starter for 10:

 

Hi mate,

I bought some starter spray today. It's called "start ya *****". Took off the air intake cover and sprayed into the air hose. It actually started for about 2 seconds then died again. So now I'm thinking the engine is starved of diesel. Pump or filter issues? Any other suggestions in this area?

"Start ya b a s t a r d"

Car has half a tank of diesel 

 

Getting even closer, we hope?

MY next step (remember, I don't know your fuel system or maintenance history at all!)...

Any fuel related problems, I just change the filter to rule that out (however I have recently had to change the complete expensive filter housing as it had an air leak) If it is a steel container, you will overcome that issue?

Then IMHO, it's a matter of priming the system, all the way through past the filter through the HP pump and back to the tank.

Is there an electric lift pump in the tank - that has to be confirmed working and should prime the system fully?

If not and you have to prime it, I'd avoid relying on cranking the engine to get fuel through - very unreliable, can flatten battery, damage starter and can take a lot of time?

However, you could try it but don't say I didn't warn you if it doesn't work?

I also don't rate the priming bulbs as the valves won't seat correctly until wetted by fuel?

I use a genuine Mityvac kit (lucky me!) but the copy versions should be fine, although this one (loads available) only draws a vacuum. Unlike a Mityvac, it doesn't switch to do pressure which gives far more uses but at the price, a bargain?:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146203496161

I draw a vacuum by connecting the pump to the fuel return line including the in line container supplied and continue to pump until fuel is drawn through the filter (better to fill it up before fitting if possible) until it reaches the plastic container so you are certain the HP pump is filled.
If you can't do that, there may be an air leak somewhere (all joints, especially tiny return hoses etc would need to be checked (cover them with grease/heavy oil to try to temporarily seal the leak?)
Otherwise, you will have to isolate each section of pipework to narrow down the source of the leak by seeing if it will hold vacuum.
If lack of fuel is the only cause then the engine should start straight away.
After that it's a matter of checking that there are no air leaks which may prevent starting if the vehicle isn't used overnight or after a couple of days  - is there a transparent section of fuel line you can use to check all of this?
If there are no other problems, you are done (fault codes may clear, or not)

Fingers crossed!

8 hours ago, Shearers said:

Getting even closer, we hope?

MY next step (remember, I don't know your fuel system or maintenance history at all!)...

Any fuel related problems, I just change the filter to rule that out (however I have recently had to change the complete expensive filter housing as it had an air leak) If it is a steel container, you will overcome that issue?

Then IMHO, it's a matter of priming the system, all the way through past the filter through the HP pump and back to the tank.

Is there an electric lift pump in the tank - that has to be confirmed working and should prime the system fully?

If not and you have to prime it, I'd avoid relying on cranking the engine to get fuel through - very unreliable, can flatten battery, damage starter and can take a lot of time?

However, you could try it but don't say I didn't warn you if it doesn't work?

I also don't rate the priming bulbs as the valves won't seat correctly until wetted by fuel?

I use a genuine Mityvac kit (lucky me!) but the copy versions should be fine, although this one (loads available) only draws a vacuum. Unlike a Mityvac, it doesn't switch to do pressure which gives far more uses but at the price, a bargain?:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146203496161

I draw a vacuum by connecting the pump to the fuel return line including the in line container supplied and continue to pump until fuel is drawn through the filter (better to fill it up before fitting if possible) until it reaches the plastic container so you are certain the HP pump is filled.
If you can't do that, there may be an air leak somewhere (all joints, especially tiny return hoses etc would need to be checked (cover them with grease/heavy oil to try to temporarily seal the leak?)
Otherwise, you will have to isolate each section of pipework to narrow down the source of the leak by seeing if it will hold vacuum.
If lack of fuel is the only cause then the engine should start straight away.
After that it's a matter of checking that there are no air leaks which may prevent starting if the vehicle isn't used overnight or after a couple of days  - is there a transparent section of fuel line you can use to check all of this?
If there are no other problems, you are done (fault codes may clear, or not)

Fingers crossed!

Hi mate, amazing write up I really really appreciate that. I will look into changing fuel filter first.

In regards to the bulbs and lines, I have taken some pictures from under the hood. I am guessing the filter is the red pen? And the fuel lines are the blue pen. Not sure about bulbs though?

Thank you

From pictures above, you are correct regarding filter and fuel lines (long transparent bit should allow you to see if there's any fuel/bubbles/movement of fuel) - is there any sign of fuel in that line and when was the filter last changed (3 years may be maximum recommended and filter was always black all round but I always change at 2 years as you never know quality of fuel, plus check for "sparkles" in the bottom indicating break up of fuel pump?)

Looks like this filter although multiple videos available. The priming bulb is clearly visible but often not fitted:

Green connection in 3rd picture is fuel return line (where vacuum can be drawn)

Still don't know if you have a lift pump or not or if any evidence that fuel is actually in the lines which is THE most important thing. Get someone to crank whilst you watch.

More progress, next step depends on what you see but depending on maintenance filter change may help in the longer term too?

On 12/12/2024 at 10:20 PM, Shearers said:

From pictures above, you are correct regarding filter and fuel lines (long transparent bit should allow you to see if there's any fuel/bubbles/movement of fuel) - is there any sign of fuel in that line and when was the filter last changed (3 years may be maximum recommended and filter was always black all round but I always change at 2 years as you never know quality of fuel, plus check for "sparkles" in the bottom indicating break up of fuel pump?)

Looks like this filter although multiple videos available. The priming bulb is clearly visible but often not fitted:

Green connection in 3rd picture is fuel return line (where vacuum can be drawn)

Still don't know if you have a lift pump or not or if any evidence that fuel is actually in the lines which is THE most important thing. Get someone to crank whilst you watch.

More progress, next step depends on what you see but depending on maintenance filter change may help in the longer term too?

Hi mate,

Mechanic has had a look and turns out there is metal shavings all through the fuel, caused by a bad high pressure pump.

It's going to be an expensive fix 

13 hours ago, chrisdickens1 said:

It's going to be an expensive fix 

Ouch! Sorry to hear that.

I know it's too late now but (despite any hint of "Snake Oil"- if you don't like it, don't buy it?) I'm going to carry on using:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Archoil-AR6900-D-Advanced-Diesel-Synthesis/dp/B01IDDF4JM?th=1

I (and I can only speak personally) feel it runs better, contains recognised cetane improver, detergent and HP pump lubricant.

I don't see any impact on fuel economy but by my calculations you get premium diesel for half the price difference at fuel stations.

I'll leave now and put on my foil hat! 😉