Had an issue with my son's fiesta, when I looked at Utube and the car, I could see the car wasn't as specified. Late year build may have been given parts from another model 🙂
. So I removed the damaged bulb and took it too Halfords, seems I needed a H15 not a H7 as all the web guides were suggesting. Replaced the bulb, the whole assembly including the indicators is now dead. Put the old bulb back in and tested same result. Its a tricky install and there are a couple of think wires, don't think I pulled em, and they seem to be attached (light tug) at both ends. I've also toggled the main beam fuses (left and right), no joy.

Have I blown a larger fuse/relay as the whole assembly seems to no longer grounded, that's my guess!

and I've unplugged and re-plugged the multi-wire socket into the assembly without joy

in the engine compartment fuse 25 is left and 26 is right they are fuses for exterior lights. 12 & 13 are high beams but i would check 25 /26 now as you said your swapped 12 & 13 right?

 

For future reference, this must be a facelift Mk7 (or Mk7.5) if it has H15 main beam.

It sounds like you have damaged the ground wire for the whole cluster to fail.  Not just a fuse or relay.

Thanks Festervas, good shout, tried it but no joy.

11 minutes ago, steve.E said:

Thanks Festervas, good shout, tried it but no joy.

As Tom mentioned if you tried all the fuses if you have a multi meter i would start probing the plug connection, Mk7 has a few types of lamp from my observation, Mine has Daytime running lights do you have the facelift lights with DRl leds? i have a picture saved showing the pinout.. any green corrosion ?

Given the indicators, side lights are different bulbs, that was my thought ---"damaged the ground wire for the whole cluster to fail. " where would that be, can I check it?
its looks to be dec2012 build, I dont think there are any LEDs. I have a multimeter but really have only used it to test fuses and the occasion voltage

1 hour ago, steve.E said:

Given the indicators, side lights are different bulbs, that was my thought ---"damaged the ground wire for the whole cluster to fail. " where would that be, can I check it?
its looks to be dec2012 build, I dont think there are any LEDs. I have a multimeter but really have only used it to test fuses and the occasion voltage

I think this is around the time they started to do the facelift as mine was built in 2012 but is a facelift model.  if you can post a picture of same type of headlight you got it don't have to be of your car find one on the internet, it will help to find out what plug and pinout is correct. as for the multimeter

you would only be testing continuity like fuses so it will consist of touching ground pin and chassis somewhere metal if it beeps you have a good ground

There doesn't seem much in there that I could have harmed, just the two wires to the side light and they seem to be ok

So the wires you think you damaged is inside the light? and not on the harness? You can open them up but it involves putting them in the oven.

then re-sealing them with butyl tape. if you don't want to do that as it is a bit involved, only other option is a new headlamp. But i would check the main connection plug first to see if it was corrosion that knocked out the lap to begin with. as 2nd hand lamps on ebay are quite expensive and you have to be careful and read descriptions as there's a lot of damaged lamps on there with broken mounting brackets 

Yes, I managed to change the bulb without taking the assembly off the vehicle, didnt touch the connection plug, or put it under any strain. I cant see anything internally near the bulb that could have been damaged only the two wire side light and that seems ok. I only took off the assembly because I thought that it might have a ground wire underneath, but I think its all thru the connection plug

yeah its all through the plug just above the opening in your last picture. its quite annoying and a tight squeeze against the fuse box.. makes road side repairs impossible really without tools

  As its late now test the plug on car side for continuity tomorrow and check for the green corrosion.

you could do the same tonight on the lamp tonight as you have it off On bulb plug jam your probe in and check continuity on the plug on the back of the lamp that connects to the lighting harness  if it beeps you will know that the lamp wires are good inside.

 

 

Had trouble getting the original bulb out due to the tightness, ended up using pliars to help. I think I also used pliars on the new bulb, guessing I might have damaged the part that have the connectors. I have tested the assembly without the bulb and the indicators now work, so I will try a new bulb. I cant see how I have damaged anything on the assembly or the connectors, and will be able to install without help now the assembly is off the chassis. Will let you know after halfords open this morning. If I need a new assembly where would be a good place to look, not going to buy second hand off of ebay and the like, my boy needs his car to get to work. Guessing there are a myriad of variations, how do I determine the exact model/type I need.  

1 hour ago, steve.E said:

Had trouble getting the original bulb out due to the tightness, ended up using pliars to help. I think I also used pliars on the new bulb, guessing I might have damaged the part that have the connectors. I have tested the assembly without the bulb and the indicators now work, so I will try a new bulb. I cant see how I have damaged anything on the assembly or the connectors, and will be able to install without help now the assembly is off the chassis. Will let you know after halfords open this morning. If I need a new assembly where would be a good place to look, not going to buy second hand off of ebay and the like, my boy needs his car to get to work. Guessing there are a myriad of variations, how do I determine the exact model/type I need.  

There are many variations, including different coloured bezels and LED DRLs for example, plus LHD etc, and as already said, the facelift lights (approx 2012-2016) are a different to pre-facelift (approx 08-2012).  The best way to compare is to use the manufacturing part number from your existing light.  It'll be in the format of XXXX-AAAAA-XX on a sticker.  The very final letter can be different on a replacement, as that only denotes revisions, but ideally you should only go up to a higher revision (higher letter up the alphabet) to ensure compatibility.

Autodoc is a good bet and allows you to search by part numbers for aftermarket parts.  EuroCarParts may sell some versions.  Though personally I would just use ebay or a local breakers yard for this part.

Some progress, fitted new bulb, ground issue resolved, indicator works. Still no main lights, at wits end, just test full beam, the new bulb is working. So I must have not just caused a grounding issue, but the dipped beam bulb has now blown. Taking it out, but cant see any marking, not sure what I need to get. Cant trust the 2013 handbook, because it tells me the water pump fuse is in 14, and thats empty....hope its standard, and Halfords can identify. Think its a 501 W5W

Thanks guys for all your help, Festervaz, Tom

That isn't the dipped beam bulb.  It's for the side lights.  But yes it's a W5W.

The 1.25 engine does not use an electric waterpump, that fuse is only for the 1.0 EcoBoost engines.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

That isn't the dipped beam bulb.  It's for the side lights.  But yes it's a W5W.

Those bulbs have a tendency to be 'fragile' as the2 x connector wires are very thin, just wrapped over the glass base. You can usually fettle them to make a decent connection if they've come adrift...

Final update, the W5W has fixed it, have the full set of indicator, side, dipped and beam. Thanks again for all your help.

Glad its sorted..  congrats mate