Hello,

I am hoping someone will be able to help. Sorry for the long post but wanted to include what we have tried so far. I have a 2013 Fiesta and when I bought the car originally the heated windows didn’t work.

2 months ago the Keyless entry all of a sudden wouldn’t work. You press the button on the fob to unlock, the screen for the radio is on but the doors don’t unlock. However the button for the boot on the fob still works. You can also open the windows with a double tap on the fob still. Then once you open the car with the button on the handle it won’t lock with the key either. It will only lock with the button inside. Plus when you lock it the screen on the radio doesn’t go to sleep. 
 

We tried changing the batteries in both keys that didn’t solve it, changed the car battery as was 4 years old but a 5 year battery and that fixed the windscreen issue however didn’t fix the central locking. 

We have removed all door cards and checked the wiring and door module and this was all fine. We have done a drain down test. We have checked the keyless entry antenna behind the handbrake. We have unplugged the stereo and all centre controls and the screen still wouldn’t go out. However still none of this has fixed the issue. 

Not sure if it could be the door latch it’s self? Has anyone experienced similar? 

I don’t suppose anyone has had this issue and knows what else we can check please? 
 

TIA

1 hour ago, Leah McDonnell said:

I don’t suppose anyone has had this issue and knows what else we can check please? 

That's a lot of things you've tried. What you need is to use FORScan and a vLinker FS lead to connect a laptop to the cars OBDII.

Then you will be able to see and read all of the 'Diagnostic Trouble Codes' (DTC's) which will take away all of the guess work and it should tell you what the problem(s) is.

My own thoughts is that this is still a car battery related problem (but please use FORScan, don't guess). Do you have a digital multimeter ?

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L

vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

Thank you so much for your help. I will look at getting one of these today and hopefully we find out the issue 🤞🏻 yes we do have a digital multimeter as we used it to do the drain down test 🙂 

Hi

I’ve got the keyless locking stop working, both passenger side and drivers side, unlocking works fine both sides but when I touch the handle to lock the car it doesn’t seem to work

thanks

1 minute ago, Tommi97 said:

unlocking works fine both sides but when I touch the handle to lock the car it doesn’t seem to wor

Car battery has a low State Of Charge (SOC).

It won't lock the doors as a precaution encase it doesn't have enough power to unlock them. Charge the car battery for 12 hours.

Update encase anyone has the same issue as me. Nothing came up as an error on the Forscan. We took it to a ford specialist and they managed to work it out they tried changing a couple things and then realised it was the speedo cluster. Since changing this everything is working again. 

56 minutes ago, Leah McDonnell said:

... and then realised it was the speedo cluster...

Did hey supply you with a new instrument cluster, replace with a used one, or re-solder your existing one?

They bought a used one and then reprogrammed it. 

On 3/8/2025 at 9:24 PM, StephenFord said:

Did hey supply you with a new instrument cluster, replace with a used one, or re-solder your existing one?

They offered for us to source one or they could source one (second hand - £30-40 on eBay. So we asked them so they could test it and if not send it back etc.

They requested our second key to sync the immobiliser and everything else through reprogramming. Having this knowledge now, we could have got away with sending the cluster to an ECU specialist to have the cluster repaired saving the expense of reprogramming. But it was more convenient at the time to have it repaired in the way we did on the off chance that the issue could have been elsewhere.

So to summarise, we did a draw down test on our end pulling all fuses and we had four fuses in the glove point us towards all the display, audio and cluster. A cube fuse under the bonnet that was the fuse to the glovebox fuse if that was pulled then it drew very little from the battery also. The key wouldn’t look the car but the central locking button inside the car would look and unlock the car but wouldn’t go to sleep etc causing the battery to run flat. 

The most direct symptom and cure that was found was if you simply unplugged the cluster then everything would function as it should, lock and sleep. I really hope this helps add experience or makes it’s easier for someone to troubleshoot the same problem.

Sorry for the delay on the response, I’ve only just seen the notification.