Where do I put the pipes?

How do i create a closed loop so I can basically run off an auxilary tank?

Have included pictures of the pipework.

 

If anyone can circle where I should attatch things, that would be wonderful.

 

Bit more difficult than it seems on this engine.  Assuming you want to bypass the filter then the inlet should be connected directly to the HP pump behind the engine.  (Green circle)   

However, there is also a return connected from the pump, which I would recommend blocking up on the pipe side and diverting into a spare container from the pump side. (Red cross)

 

The return from your closed loop should be connected immediately after the injector leak off pipes here.

 

 

This is the loop we're aiming for if it helps:

Just wondered where the filter sits in the equation. Thank you for the pictures. So i need to take the in pipe off at the pump end, and then put both lines to the filter into the container along with the feed, with a pipe from the container to the pump in. Thatll take the diesel tank and the filter out of the equation?

Well, adapt the filter lines so i can put pipes from them into the container.

 

The filter housing is at the left hand end of the pipe labeled 9D350.  

You don't need to touch the lines to the filter.  The in goes straight into the pump.  The out line goes back to the tank.

14 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The filter housing is at the left hand end of the pipe labeled 9D350.  

You don't need to touch the lines to the filter.  The in goes straight into the pump.  The out line goes back to the tank.

Aha. So one for pump in and one for injector return. Lovely. I will examine the faffyness of doing such things.

Also should have mentioned you'll probably need a hand primer half way along the 'in' pipe to initially purge air out of the system. 

The alternative to that would be placing the container up higher than the HP pump for a gravity feed instead.

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Also should have mentioned you'll probably need a hand primer half way along the 'in' pipe to initially purge air out of the system. 

The alternative to that would be placing the container up higher than the HP pump for a gravity feed instead.

Will be above it. Cheers for the assistance. Found the pump pipes and they are accesible, and that other one is right on top so all looks gd. Any recommendation on inner diameter. I can get 6 and 8.

I don't know the pipe diameter unfortunately.

On 1/30/2025 at 3:18 PM, TomsFocus said:

I don't know the pipe diameter unfortunately.

Just to confirm before i do something stupid, is the tank to pump feed line the furthest rear on the top of the pump? Next to the pump to filter return line?

 

I dont want to accidently take off the rail feed and squirt diesel everywhere 

The rail feed is the solid metal one.  Plastic wouldn't cope with the high pressure.

Filter to pump intake line is top of the pump. (Green circle)

Pump return line is bottom of the pump. (Red cross)

Furthest back depends on whether you're looking at the picture above or from the car so I can't confirm it that way.

Excuse my ignorance but is this process to flush/clean injectors etc and (excuse me again) once that is done, is it not much simpler (and perhaps more effective long term?) to use Snake Oil :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Archoil-AR6900-D-Advanced-Diesel-Synthesis/dp/B01IDDF4JM?th=1
Or equivalent to keep clean (detergent, polyetheramine) improve cetane (EHN) lubricate HP pump (ester lubricant) etc.
Am I the only one using this (impossible)?

Interested to know effectiveness of the concentrated flush and opinions.
 

17 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The rail feed is the solid metal one.  Plastic wouldn't cope with the high pressure.

Filter to pump intake line is top of the pump. (Green circle)

Pump return line is bottom of the pump. (Red cross)

Furthest back depends on whether you're looking at the picture above or from the car so I can't confirm it that way.

Well on the car theres a line from the pump to the filter, appears to be the one youve circled, and the one youve crossed doesnt have an obvious path so i would assume thats the feed from the tank. 

17 hours ago, Shearers said:

Excuse my ignorance but is this process to flush/clean injectors etc and (excuse me again) once that is done, is it not much simpler (and perhaps more effective long term?) to use Snake Oil :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Archoil-AR6900-D-Advanced-Diesel-Synthesis/dp/B01IDDF4JM?th=1
Or equivalent to keep clean (detergent, polyetheramine) improve cetane (EHN) lubricate HP pump (ester lubricant) etc.
Am I the only one using this (impossible)?

Interested to know effectiveness of the concentrated flush and opinions.
 

Anything put in the tank is a preventative measure, but vary rarely will actually remove anything. Concentrated flush will, hopefully, remove any stickyness or deposits clogging the injector.

Ive also out some EHN in the tank along with the liqui molly super diesel.

31 minutes ago, SquidgyB7421 said:

Well on the car theres a line from the pump to the filter, appears to be the one youve circled, and the one youve crossed doesnt have an obvious path so i would assume thats the feed from the tank. 

You're looking at it the wrong way round.  The filter has to go before the pump to protect it.  That's the pump feed line, with the green circle.

The smaller one with the cross is the return, works in the same way as the injector leak-off pipes.

47 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

You're looking at it the wrong way round.  The filter has to go before the pump to protect it.  That's the pump feed line, with the green circle.

The smaller one with the cross is the return, works in the same way as the injector leak-off pipes.

This is why its confusing lol. 

So path is

Tank to filter

Filter to pump

Both pump return and injector bleed off are on that t piece and run back to the tank.

Its just confusing because of where the pipe is attatched to the bracket bit thats ontop of the filter holder.

I wondered if the filter was pre or post pump but now i know.

So i can take the line off the filter end and put it in my jar of cleaner if I dont want to faff, and then just connect a pipe on that t piece bit for the return. 

Seems simple enough.

 

15 minutes ago, SquidgyB7421 said:

So i can take the line off the filter end and put it in my jar of cleaner if I dont want to faff, and then just connect a pipe on that t piece bit for the return. 

The return line seems to be connected to the inlet line in the middle of those two pipes which is the reason that I wouldn't use those pipes at all to run a loop.  

It may just be balanced on pressures (for example, low pressure from the filter could allow some of the return fuel back into the feed line) or there may a small valve on there.  I haven't been able to find a real life close-up of that pipe online to confirm it either way.  If any of those pipes are left open while connected to the system it could end up sucking air in.

Well its the pipe from the filter to the pump so its the natural feed anyway.

Its gonna have to come off at either the filter or the pump end.

I can take it off at the pump, just awkward place to attatch a new pipe but I will cope.

1 minute ago, SquidgyB7421 said:

Well its the pipe from the filter to the pump so its the natural feed anyway.

Its gonna have to come off at either the filter or the pump end.

I can take it off at the pump, just awkward place to attatch a new pipe but I will cope.

Yes, but if you take it off at the pump end, I can guarantee no air can get into it.  If you take it off at the filter end, it could suck air in through the return line, if it's connected in the way it appears.  The engine won't run if air gets sucked in there.

Just now, TomsFocus said:

Yes, but if you take it off at the pump end, I can guarantee no air can get into it.  If you take it off at the filter end, it could suck air in through the return line, if it's connected in the way it appears.  The engine won't run if air gets sucked in there.

Cool, off the pump it will be then.

And after performing the purge, i can say slightly better acceleration and economy whilst under 40, how ever, vibrations are still there.

Slightly annoying

Clogged egr/intake manifold?

Or

Clutch plate gone wonky? Gearbox oil change? Although while in neutral, depressing the clutch does nothing, whilst moving and vibrating, depressing the clutch kills everything so... Possible gearbox alignment, clutch plate not flat, or throw out bearing going? No noises, clutch operation good, no stiffness or oddness in the gear stick.

I cant figure out what would be wrong. No smoke, no blow by, oil+filter changed, air filter and diesel filter changed, intercooler flushed, throttle cleaned, maf cleaned, diesel revive ran through it, reset the values in the maf, throttle, and pilot injection.

Emmisions are as low as can be and dpf is clear.

Does anyone have the answers to an rpm/load vibration, most evident at idle and just under 3k rpm in neutral, steady in 3rd, 2800 to 3200 in 4th and around 2200 to 2500 rpm in 5th

Engine or gearbox?

 

Engine/gearbox mountings?

Disconnect each injector in turn to see if one or more makes a bigger difference?

Certain it's nothing to do with road speed, wheel balance etc (see neutral coast test)?

ETIS paragraph that most resembles your issue (at the moment):

Engine rpm Sensitive: A vibration is felt whenever the engine reaches a particular rpm. It will disappear in neutral coasts. The vibration can be duplicated by operating the engine at the problem rpm while the vehicle is stationary. It can be caused by any component, from the accessory drive belt to the clutch or torque converter which turns at engine speed when the vehicle is stopped. 

It also mentions neutral coasting test and powertrain/drivetrain mount neutralizing procedure (I assume this means wedging engine  mounts (especially the one that limits engine tilting fore and back?)

Exceptionally difficult to diagnose at a distance so only suggestion?

Thanks for trying to find something.

Ive had 2 alignments and it didnt change anything so its definitely engine related.

I will take off the egr and intake manifold and see if theres any blockages.

Change my gearbox oil incase theres something about that causing... Friction? And bleed the clutch to make sure my throw out bearing isnt getting stuck or something stupid.

WIll do the whole injector testing, but i do suspect 1 of them coz of the sound it makes. I dont see how unplugging them would give me smooth enough running to accurately compare tho...

Thanks again.

TBH I can't see gearbox oil, EGR etc. causing vibration but that is your choice.

IMHO it may be better to concentrate on rotating parts and engine mountings at first but, again, that is up to you.

Hopefully someone else can provide a different approach.

 

Well unless its my cam shaft, ive got no idea.

O2 lambda permanently reading 2.0 in foracan so will clean it and see if that changes